Pull-through prevention with pictures

i fixed mine with a small roll pin, done the same as your procedure , it's not a perfect job but 100 times better than the yamaha concept.i'm surprised with all the problems these have caused over the years , that some aftermarket company haven't started making a stronger design.
 
I think BlueWho might be talking about having the cable slot cut on one side only instead of all the way across. I was thinking about that too. I'm concerned that the cable end wouldn't be supported evenly (right angle to the pull direction) with the slot cut on one side. Also, as someone mentioned earlier, the valve doesn't spread open, it wears, so this might not make things better.
 
I just picked up a piece of stainless at the local hobby shop.This plus a little 609 Loctite on one valve only just to see if there is any difference at years end between the plain steel quicky fix and a fancy shmancy fix.Probably should just do them all with the good stuff but really don't feel like it.Time to ride,not fix.
 
Excellent idea!! This idea should extend the life of even properly adjusted power valves. Thanks for posting the info.!!
 
I realize this thread is over 2 years old but can anybody attest to the longevity of this fix? There was no follow up post by the original poster.
 
I did this fix last year on a couple of valves but have yet to pull the to check how it's holding up.I've got a couple more spares to do but at least one of them need the top built up first.
 
Anyone else try this fix? Looks like my brother is going to have try it out....
 
Sure wish I saw this thread before I sent them to rich. Rich did great work, but this way is a fraction of the price and I could've done it myself...looks very simple and I think the SS tubing would be the way to go over the steel tubing.
 
nothin wrong by doing them that way, its more backyard style so it wont be the same spec or straightness especially if your just hand drilling the stuff, a drill press would be a little better to use and more accurate but it would surely work. I understand its not a engine spec or space shuttle so the differance will be able to be adjusted via the cables.

I would for sure use green or red loctite on that sleeve in there!!
 
Maybe a good idea to swedge the ends of the tubing.
 
Quick update to this repair.Pulled the valves a few weeks ago prepping the sled for sale.All 3 valves looked the same as the day I did the repair.They pretty much fell off the cables.Zero wear or change to the cable or sleeve and no sign of the barrel spreading open.I checked them a few times the first while but I'm embarrassed to admit I haven't cleaned the valves for 2 winters,just pulled on the cable at the servo to make sure they moved freely,and have 3000+ miles on this repair.
 
If you can tell us, what is the outside and inside dia. of the SS tubing you were using.
 
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