setting your TPS properly--video

Sorry I know I should read. Would have read manual.. but I when i was skipping through I noticed someone saying it was not acurate in terms of declaring the TPS at fault. Shouldn't be to hard to do as I do this crap at work but I'll have to get the manual out. I assume the colour coding on the wires is the same from an 01 to 02 I hope.
 
SRXSRULE2 said:
Sorry I know I should read. Would have read manual.. but I when i was skipping through I noticed someone saying it was not acurate in terms of declaring the TPS at fault. Shouldn't be to hard to do as I do this crap at work but I'll have to get the manual out. I assume the colour coding on the wires is the same from an 01 to 02 I hope.
Click to expand...


As far as adjusting, the color coding isn't important, the pin position of the sensor is. If you follow the shop manual procedure, you're applying voltage to the sensor and adjusting based on the sensor output at idle.

As Blue stated, make sure your base idle is set properly (1800 +/- 200) and adjust the TP sensor according to the calculation and voltage supply.

The sensor is a potentiometer not unlike the throttle control of your old Tyco/AFX slot car race track. It uses a wiper arm with a contact button at the end of the arm that slides across resistor pads similar to the resistor wire windings of your slot car controller. If you played with your slot car track enough you'd end up with dead spots somewhere in the range of the wiper arm.

Same affect with your TPS but in this case the CDI is expecting a smooth voltage change from closed to open throttle but if the wiper arm flutters due to engine vibration (or is lifted from the resistor pads from plowing of the pad material) you lose the voltage signal to the CDI.

You're not only loosing an important load indicator to the CDI but even worse you're sending it an erratic signal so the CDI will add and pull spark erratically.

The self test capabilities of the CDI is limited to gross, out of range resistance from the TPS so the only time your temp light (aka - check engine or MIL) will flash is if it's out of range low or high. According to Bob's testing, a simple resistance check of the sensor even when cycling the throttle won't identify a faulty sensor and IMO engine vibration is necassary to recreate the fault.

Please read through the thread as Blue suggests.
 
bluemonster1 said:
I go by the book and all should work..but am stumped.Even my 600 is having coolant issues now.Never existed for 12,000 km's previous.Ordering new head gaskets now at $35 a pop..nuts man..season is almost over and still haven't dialed both sleds in..just want to ride a reliable sled..looks like these yamie's are starting to dissapoint me now..
Click to expand...


I know it's a little late now, I got fed up with the $35.00 head gaskets myself. My dealer turned me on to Cometic. They are very good quality and wait till you see the prices.

http://www.cometic.com/snowmobile.aspx

Full top end kit for your 600 is $65.00

complete motor kit with rubber seals for everything water pump and everything is only $74.00
 
snomofo said:
As far as adjusting, the color coding isn't important, the pin position of the sensor is. If you follow the shop manual procedure, you're applying voltage to the sensor and adjusting based on the sensor output at idle.

As Blue stated, make sure your base idle is set properly (1800 +/- 200) and adjust the TP sensor according to the calculation and voltage supply.

The sensor is a potentiometer not unlike the throttle control of your old Tyco/AFX slot car race track. It uses a wiper arm with a contact button at the end of the arm that slides across resistor pads similar to the resistor wire windings of your slot car controller. If you played with your slot car track enough you'd end up with dead spots somewhere in the range of the wiper arm.

Same affect with your TPS but in this case the CDI is expecting a smooth voltage change from closed to open throttle but if the wiper arm flutters due to engine vibration (or is lifted from the resistor pads from plowing of the pad material) you lose the voltage signal to the CDI.

You're not only loosing an important load indicator to the CDI but even worse you're sending it an erratic signal so the CDI will add and pull spark erratically.

The self test capabilities of the CDI is limited to gross, out of range resistance from the TPS so the only time your temp light (aka - check engine or MIL) will flash is if it's out of range low or high. According to Bob's testing, a simple resistance check of the sensor even when cycling the throttle won't identify a faulty sensor and IMO engine vibration is necassary to recreate the fault.

Please read through the thread as Blue suggests.
Click to expand...


Great explaination!

Bob
 
well I think there is enough info on this now..now to the more important stuff..gonna go out later and test these 8bu10's everyone talks about.
 
Well I built a tester today. Resistance and voltage were within spec with the sled not running. With the engine running and warmed up, the results were the same. I cycled the throttle and voltage increased smoothly. So I guess my TPS is fine.
 
Stephfg said:
Well I built a tester today. Resistance and voltage were within spec with the sled not running. With the engine running and warmed up, the results were the same. I cycled the throttle and voltage increased smoothly. So I guess my TPS is fine.
Click to expand...


I would say so. My '01 tested the same but I'm not having any issues either so I think Bob's dynamic test is a good one.

I don't know the criteria Yamaha uses to trigger a recall, but the NTSB uses a .4% or above failure rate (4 r/1000) to trigger a safety recall. I assume over the road motorcycles have to play by NTSB rules where as a sled probably doesn't.

In other words, only a small percentage may be faulty so the problem may not be wide spread... or it may take a long time in service before the problem develops or maybe they changed the design/material/supplier in 2002.
 
thanx ssbob, bluemonster,snomofo. i am currently working on idle racing issue will report any results a.s.a.p. i believe there needs to be a seperate high idle for warmup independent of warm idle setting( working on it). also idle should be set as low as practical after warmup. maybe 1500 or so. also discovered t.o.r.s. switch on carbs sticks sometimes. this keeps throttle open slightly more. i have physically removed switch and am setting up adjustable locking screw(1/4" bolt.) see what happens.
 
i surely will. i am hopeful with a good dose of apprehension. i read where there may be an issue with air leaking by slides in flat sided carbs, u would think this would be a fixed condition and can be compensated for in a consistent manner. happy motoring
 
I'm a computer technician and on a PC power supply, the red wire is a very precisely regulated 4.9-5.0volts DC. I have a bunch of old power supplies and could make a tester for less than $5. Only need 3 alligator clips and some solder and a soldering iron. Connect one clip to a red wire, one to black, and then the 3rd on the multimeter. To make the power supply kick on you just plug it into 120v AC outlet, and take a small piece of wire or a paper clip, and connect the GREEN wire to any of the black ground wires on the power supply. Instant regulated 5vdc power. Only drawback is it's not portable like the battery method.
 
oh that new t.p.s. was worth it. i put old one back on and could not get it to calibrate to the desired output. was looking for around .65 would not go lower than .70 new one was capable of .50 . was almost a victim of mixing assumptions with troubleshooting. got lucky this time even though it did not resolve the original issue.
 
666 appreciate the input, but applied voltage is not real critical here. the output is. should be very close to 13.6% of applied with throttle at idle. i have a wooden case to hold 3 batteries with bolts pressed against each end to attach alligator clips to. i have 3 wires each 1 has an alligator clip on 1 end and a female conn. on other. works fine. happy motoring.
 
Just wanted to say Big Thanks to ssbob, bluemonster,snomofo for the wealth if info on the TPS and adjusting it. I was able to build my tester which produced 5.01 volts and with the math of 5.01x.136=.681 for the correct setting at idle. I was able to hook it up standing from the clutch side 5 volts from tester on right prong, positive lead on voltage tester to middle prong, and both neg from tester and 5 volt tester on the left prong. My TPS was off. It read .72 at idle and 3.12 at wot. Don't know how much this actually effected the performance but I'll have to wait untill next season to tell. The TPS now has been adjusted to .681 at idle and 3.12 at wot. Thanks again.
 
and remember if you ever re adjust your idle for what ever reason,you will have re set the TPS again..simple to do anyways.good luck.
 
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