AT LAST... pics of my crank. opinions wanted!

For the price of a new crank you could get 3 questionable cranks off ebay or partouts. I've always been one to get sick of the thought of buying something that has used bearings on it, but one look at that price list on page 2 makes my stomach turn more.

Say you're trying to make it 10,000 more miles. That might be two "junky" cranks, or $800 plus your time, parts, and labor to pull the motor and rip it down.

But on the other hand with a new oem crank you know its not going to seize for at least 10-15k miles if you fog it during the spring. Maybe its worth the extra money to not be stranded or ruin a case half.

Dunno man, I'm facing the same dilemma. I'm probably going to just sell mine though. Get myself something like a 88 phazer, that won't break the bank when it seizes...
 

I love the idea of running an old vintage (ish) sled, but the lack of suspension quickly changes my mind. I would love to have an mid 90's xcr 440, I always thought those were neat. and the polaris indy was around for so long you can swap an awful lot of parts around to make a neat custom sled for cheap. but I just love the smooth tripple and (up until now) stellar reliability. I keep looking at older sleds that someone might want to trade for my old cb750 though. waiting on a reply froma guy with a 97 600sx... the first NEW sled I ever owned. you never know :)
 
I had an old 88 phazer, the front end was narrow and sucked. the rear sucked. compared to the new sleds, the gauges are poor. small fuel tank. just all around, the older sleds are neat, but nothing I would want to put thousands of miles on lol!
 
03viperguy, all you need is a press and some patience to do the crank yourself. Well, that and a cheap dial guage.

Use press to press apart crankshaft.
Take bearings to local bearing store
Press crankshaft back together with bearings getting as straight as possible by eye
Assemble lower half of engine
Put dial guage on end of crankshaft
Use brass hammer to pound on crank sctions untill all lines up

DONE!

PM me your number if you need explicit directions, I have done countless cranks over the years.
 
03viper...I may have a line on a full case with crank for $500. It had 2000 miles on it when pulled and has been fogged and ready to go. I'll try to get more info on it, if interested.
 
honestly, right now I have no cash at all. otherwise I would have bought a crank from betheviper :) for now, time to fog everything and wait. sucks, but it is reality. thanks for looking though!!
 
03viperguy said:
honestly, right now I have no cash at all. otherwise I would have bought a crank from betheviper :) for now, time to fog everything and wait. sucks, but it is reality. thanks for looking though!!
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No problem. Let me know if you change your mind. shoot with all the cranks going, I'm considering picking it up and shelfing it. :lol:
 
you may be onto something there lol! always nice to have a spare if you had the cash to get it and shelf it!
 
I was doing some thinking. Do you run sea foam in your gas right before storage? Some people do, because sea foam is suppose to also act like a sta-bil for the gas, but also on the can it says that it washes carbon deposits away etc. Well if that's the case, I wonder if it will wash away the oil from the bearings or any rotating components? Just a thought.
 
I ran a can of Seafoam in my tank during the season and started thinking about all the oil it could wash off in the crank. Took the PV's out after running a can and they were oily. Best to drain the gas from the tank and carbs after the season.
 
SRX_700 said:
I ran a can of Seafoam in my tank during the season and started thinking about all the oil it could wash off in the crank. Took the PV's out after running a can and they were oily. Best to drain the gas from the tank and carbs after the season.
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i agree. i just wonder if the seafoam does wash some oil off of the bearings and such and then when stored for summer, there is no film of oil in the bottom end, to keep things protected from the humid weather.
 
nope, no seafoam. I really think that the old formula for amsoil (that you said was improved to be more sticky) is why I am sitting with a dead bearing. the 3 other sleds sitting right next to it arent running amsoil and had no issues. just my thought, could be wrong
 
so what would you guys do to clean everything up for storage? want to get all the gunk off the outside and inside of the motor. something as harsh as brake cleaner ok? or just foaming engine cleaner? figure I would be spraying the inside with foggin oil or 2 stroke oil. thoughts and opinions??
 
i typically use something not so harsh like Simple green for both the body and engine area and then do a light scrub. I then fog and coat everything with a silicone spray. I used a heavy engine degreaser once and got a little bit on the seat by accident and it smeared the white and blue. I clean it often enough were simple green does the job.
 
yeah, Ifigure it is apart so no time like the present to clean the cylinders, heads, cases etc before I re-assemble without the internals
 
mopar1rules said:
amsoil changed the formula now on their intercepter, dominator, and 4-stroke oils to be more sticky. my bros viper that runs amsoil intercepter has a nice film of oil on things and no rust on the bearings at all, w/no fogging it last year.
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This is very good news. When did they change it? How do you know this? They don't announce it on their website as they should.
 
03viperguy- did you end up buying a new crank or did you send it off to replace all or some bearings? Mine hasn't gone yet, but I picked up a used bottom end off a member here for when the time comes. Still can't get over how much $ those bearings are. Should last 100,000 miles for that price.
 
I have done absolutely nothing :( I am expecting my second child with the wife, so I dont see anything happening anytime soon either :( at least I still have the wifes 600 sxr to ride!
 
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