stingray719 said:Ok, my opinion from decades of multiple two cycle storage. I do nothing....except the first start after storage I put triple the recommended amount of STA-BIL in the gas tank and try to run it dry. Then fill up and go. ZERO rust and explode issues in decades and NEVER a first time start carb clean (STA-BIL actually dissolves the varnish like material).
Draining a carb is a death knell to gaskets that sit dry, think about it.
WORST possible storage is in a closed trailer or air tight barn or storage unit. For some reason that rusts the crank like REALLY quick when it is hot.
Your mileage may vary, but this has always worked for me.
I too had success with your procedure years ago before E10 - without Stabil.
...and I still hear success stories (as is the case with my buddy's outboard) but with E10 or higher ethanol content things ain't the same.
I've not seen issues with dry carb gaskets. Leather pump plungers or cork that isn't treated prior to assembly in an automotive application perhaps ( I use Pam cooking spray on Holley cork float bowl gaskets at the race track to allow for numerous jet changes) but with Yamaha's pre-mix stratigy any rubber inside is coated/treated. I would run dry my old round slides with pre-mix for this reason but IMO it isn't necassary on my SRX.
My '01 SRX owner's guide suggests the use of Stabil or draining for storage but it also came with a suppliment/update one pager regarding storage that suggests draining only. This coincided with the introduction of E10 in high octane fuels here in Michigan.
Storing with or without fuel isn't as important as using fresh, in season fuel for the first ride.
Agreed that enclosed trailer storage or wrapping the sled in a plastic tarp can reak havoc on not only engine internals but also drive/skid bearings and other steel components. Gotta let 'er breath.
JMO