Vmax 4 Sluggish Reving TORS kicks in

tyler440

tyler440

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
363
Age
42
Location
Clarion, PA
Website
www.vintagevmax.com
Hey guys i have got a bit of an issue going on with my 93 VMAX 4. Last year i had my TORS kick in twice after being at WOT. I let off the the throttle slightly and then went to go again, TORS kicked in. it wouldn't go again until it idled down. Twice it did that, no more no less, with about 6-700 miles rode. Now granted that was probably at mile 500 that it did it. It was running fine when i drained the gas and parked it.

Now this year i put fresh gas in it and it acts like its not running on all cylinders. It is slow to rev even without a belt on it. Not really slow, but not the quick snap it should be, especially with no belt. In the higher rpms it seem to be more responsive.

also now probably 50% of the time when i run the rpms up to say 7k and let off the tors will kick in. ok fine, i say, i bypassed the tors correctly and it still lights the light and cuts spark. so i think "ok maybe in this model you leave it disconnected" so i did that. SAME EXACT outcome. it will rev up smoothly to at least 7k but not like it should. let off the gas and try to get back on it before it idles down and 50% of the time it will kick in tors.

I should also mention that with the poor throttle response, i already cleaned the carbs well. (didnt see more than just a light residue in them but i sprayed and blew and cleaned them anyways)

Spark seem good with an inline spark tester, on all 4 cylinders. From what i can feel with my bare hands it is firing on all 4.

with the tors system hooked up stock, totally disconnected, and connected to itself, it behaves the same. Is there anything else that could light the tors light? where are the grounds on this sled, i have only found the one on the radiator temp sensor.

PLEASE HELP GUYS, thanks
 
did you check your spark plug caps? they will still spark at idle but cutout at higher rpm's, i had the same problem with my 95 and i changed all my caps and it runs perfect now...
 
it runs fine at high rpm tho? the cutting out is after you run it up and let off... then try to run it up again without returning to idle... when it cuts out it IS the tors dropping spark, the cut out is a steady miss, nothing irratic or inconsistant.... i just cant understand why it is doing it, connected, disconnected, and by passed
 
bluewho said:
Put some play in the throttle cable and try it.



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Click to expand...

There was so, much play in the lever (1/4" or more) that I tried adjusting for less and still the same cutting out and T.O.R.S. activates. In my opinion how the T.O.R.S. can kick in when Plugged in (stock), Unhooked and bypassed is the key to fixing ? ! ?
 
There is a switch at the carb and one at the flipper on the bars i believe is the way it works so if you bypass the carbs it might be the one at the bars?


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it may be that also bluewho. im not sure how the tors works really, i was always under the assumption that if you disable 1 it disables both but that is something i will check
 
tyler440 said:
it runs fine at high rpm tho? the cutting out is after you run it up and let off... then try to run it up again without returning to idle...
Click to expand...
Im working on my cousins 2000 SX 700 R and it is doing the exact same thing. Not sure where to start. :dunno:
I know it is the override but not sure which switch or how to test them.
 
ok guys i believe i found my problem. i believe #1 the switch on the carbs MAY have been slightly out of adjustment. But most importantly, i am apparently a moron and when i reinstalled the carbs i hooked the ground thats near the radiator temp sensor to the tors switch, instead of the correct wire! DUH! everything seems ok now. it still seems a hair boggy between 3500 and 4500 rpm but i am not drag racing so i think ill just pretend its not there. Especially since it looks like i may be parting with it this week.... think im going to try one of those new fangled SRX's. just cant handle the weight and poor range of the 4 banger
 
Replace plugs you also can disconnected throtle switch bypass same color wires as carb switch. Also check grounds the one at rad is only for thermo switch also check harness at jackshaft
Myron
Parent racing
 
jd viper have you turned the cable adjuster down at the carbs?You might have to adjust the idle screw after this is done.



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Yes, I thought I had the cable too tight so I loosened it and nothing changed. Has at least 2mm of play before it picks up the cam on the carbs. How will the idle effect it?
Thanks
 
yeah that is EXACTLY what mine was doing, adjust the idle. then shut it off. unplug the tors switch at the carbs, connect a multimeter set to beap when there is continuity. then adust the white tors knob untill the beep stops. then (not sure on the proper setting for this but,) i turned it 1/2 turn back (should be beeping)... after that i tested the flipped switch but didnt find anything and it is NON adjustable anyways. mine work fine after that and it was sold tonight :)
 
eh i was afraid you might not have a white knob. i am not familiar with your sled, but mine had a white knob that you could easily turn by hand to adjust the tors switch, there should be some type of knob very close to the tors switch on the carbs that you can turn to adjust the switch
 
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