Turks trail performance set up for my 2001 SX700R

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sr522re

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The following is listed in the tech pages as the optimal trail setup for my 2001 SX700R.

97-99 SX700 Trail
51/43 Helix, stock weights w4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip. 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains.

2000-01 SX700R
14.5 mm rollers in addition to above.

My question is, do I need to perform all of these changes at once to see improvement or can I do them individually and pick away at them over the winter while riding inbetween?

More specific as an example, will I see improvement if I only make changes to the primary clutch but don't change out my helix? Cost is an issue for me as I am trying to keep things cheap. A new 51/43 helix might be too expensive at this time or hard to find used but making the recommended changes to the primary are relatively inexpensive. Is it worth doing one but not the other?

And what about gearing? If I do the recommended primary clutch changes but don't change my gearing will I see any improvement or am I wasting time?

I am just looking for some input at this time. My sled is still in stock form but with most of these mods being cheap or free I figure I might as well try and get the most out of my sled. But if I have to spend hundreds of $$$ in order make it all work then I may just leave it stock for now.

Any and all input is most appreciated.

Thanks everyone in advance for your help! Let it snow!!!
 

im doing almost the same to my sxr 600 and i have just about everything minus the 40 tooth gear and i have less than 100$ into it with used parts from every one on the site....thanks guys!!!!!!!!
 
I AM AFRAID FOR BEST PERFORMANCE, ALL HAS TO BE ADDED. NOW I UNDERSTAND SOME CAN,T. YOU CAN POSSIBLY SEE SOME CHANGES GOING SLOW. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
clutch set ups are like a baking recipe, you need to use all the ingrediants in order to open the oven and have the expected result, if you bake a cake with only part of the ingrediants, you wont have a nice fluffy cake youll have crap. The componets go hand in hand with each other, so just doing the primary without the helix will result in a differnt rpm, differnt shift ,differnt result then what it was designed or tested with.
Theres always clutch set ups and such given out and what works for 1 person doesnt work for another but its usually because something is differnt between the sleds, such as gearing, helix,weights,springs, etc. because someone decided they could save a couple bucks and skip that part. So you have to expect a differnt result if your not going to use all the parts.
 
Alright, thanks guys. So it sounds like all or nothing for the most part with the exception of maybe the head gasket mod.

And from what I understand, most of the parts needed to make all of these changes should be readily available from my local Yamaha dealer with the exception of maybe the helix? Is this correct?

Best place to find a helix???

Thanks again everyone!
 
post a ad in wanted section, alot of times people have this stuff used and you can get everything you need for a good price.


btw-didnt mean to rain on your parade either, I understand what your trying to do, but speed cost money. Just trying to get you "all the good" for the money thats all.
 
mrviper700 said:
post a ad in wanted section, alot of times people have this stuff used and you can get everything you need for a good price.


btw-didnt mean to rain on your parade either, I understand what your trying to do, but speed cost money. Just trying to get you "all the good" for the money thats all.
Click to expand...


That's a good idea, I will try the wanted section when I get it all figured out.

No rain on my parade, just a little overcast sky's now. It's actually exactly what I need to hear. I don't want to start buying and trying things one at a time if it's not going to benefit me. I'll start searching for everything and try to accumulate everything first and just spend a weekend putting all together and be done with it.

Yes, speed costs money, but luckily it shouldn't be too expensive to get it where I want it to be. Thanks for the input!
 
Well, I brought a print out of Turks specs with me to the Yamaha dealer over my lunch hour today and much to my surprise the guy behind the parts counter couldn't find anything I needed. He didn't even know what a helix was. He pulled up a bunch of part numbers for rollers, rivets, and weights, but his #'s didn't specify the size or weights of anything. Frustrating to say the least. I've done a bunch of searching, but can't locate the part #'s I need to pull off Turks setup. Is there an easier way to find them on this site or does someone have them handy that they can share? I am trying to find the part numbers to all the parts needed for Turks trail performance setup as I listed above.

Thanks for any help you can provide!
 
Here are oe part numbers of what you want.
8bvfa-17604-00 helix - 51/43 (rx1)
4.5g rivets 90261-06033-00
3.1g rivets 90261-06019-00
engagement shim 90201-45592
Use the numbers on the port yamaha site.
 
You can get reed spacers or just notch the stoppers for a small gain aswell as drilling out the baffle in the stock can. I noticed a bit of a difference on my 700 when I did those 2 things. Didnt want to touch the headgasket because the gas is getting questionable but oing those 3 things should be a gain of a couple hp give or take. ;)! :letitsnow
 
i did the reed notch and double layer headgasket mod last year hopefully i woulnt have any problems my plugs look good other than that i dont know how to keep a eye on it but it was a big notice in responce if i bought another sxr i would do it the same
 
00sxrjoe said:
Here are oe part numbers of what you want.
8bvfa-17604-00 helix - 51/43 (rx1)
4.5g rivets 90261-06033-00
3.1g rivets 90261-06019-00
engagement shim 90201-45592
Use the numbers on the port yamaha site.
Click to expand...


Awesome! Thank you! ;)!
 
Bluemonster2 said:
You can get reed spacers or just notch the stoppers for a small gain aswell as drilling out the baffle in the stock can. I noticed a bit of a difference on my 700 when I did those 2 things. Didnt want to touch the headgasket because the gas is getting questionable but oing those 3 things should be a gain of a couple hp give or take. ;)! :letitsnow
Click to expand...


I've been hearing a few people say that about the head gasket mod, but I don't quite understand what has changed about the gas. Has a new law passed or something that is putting more ethenol in the fuels? Otherwise I would assume 93 octane will always be 93 octane regardless of ethenol percentages... I don't know though, I'm pretty uneducated about the topic. I just don't understand how the fuel quality relates to the head gasket mod.

Reed spacers are on the list and I already bought a spare can that is already drilled out. I'll be playing around with it to see if I notice anything with it.

Thanks for the input!
 
00sxrjoe said:
Here are oe part numbers of what you want.
8bvfa-17604-00 helix - 51/43 (rx1)
4.5g rivets 90261-06033-00
3.1g rivets 90261-06019-00
engagement shim 90201-45592
Use the numbers on the port yamaha site.
Click to expand...


Hey 00sxrjoe, do you by chance have the part # for the 14.5 mm rollers?

Thanks!
 
all u guys need to use holtzman temp compensators on ur sled never jet again and never have a burn down runs perfect jetting in all weather conditions and great fuel mileage getting 17 miles to gallon on my set up u jet for safe -30 below that mounts inside the air box.when i ride i don,t need spare jerry cans
 
sr522re said:
Hey 00sxrjoe, do you by chance have the part # for the 14.5 mm rollers?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

14.5mm are 8cr-17624-00-00
 
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sr522re said:
I've been hearing a few people say that about the head gasket mod, but I don't quite understand what has changed about the gas. Has a new law passed or something that is putting more ethenol in the fuels? Otherwise I would assume 93 octane will always be 93 octane regardless of ethenol percentages... I don't know though, I'm pretty uneducated about the topic. I just don't understand how the fuel quality relates to the head gasket mod.

Reed spacers are on the list and I already bought a spare can that is already drilled out. I'll be playing around with it to see if I notice anything with it.

Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

Well it depends where you are but all the meltdowns on the forums in the last couple years kinda points to the gas getting crappier also ethanol absorbs/attracts water and increases alcohol content in fuel. Water kills lower end bearings, I run 91 w/o ethanol. Basically thinning the headgasket raises your compression which increases your chance of running lean or detonating, add the 142.5 jets even leaner and go rip on a -30 day= possible meltdown. Some people dont have any problems w those 3 mods just keep the carbs clean and only run at least 91 no ethanol if you can get it .
 
Bluemonster2 said:
Well it depends where you are but all the meltdowns on the forums in the last couple years kinda points to the gas getting crappier also ethanol absorbs/attracts water and increases alcohol content in fuel. Water kills lower end bearings, I run 91 w/o ethanol. Basically thinning the headgasket raises your compression which increases your chance of running lean or detonating, add the 142.5 jets even leaner and go rip on a -30 day= possible meltdown. Some people dont have any problems w those 3 mods just keep the carbs clean and only run at least 91 no ethanol if you can get it .
Click to expand...


Thanks for the into Bluemonster2. I'm thinking I might hold off on the head gasket mod now. The only gas I can find around here w/o ethanol is 87 octane. I'm curious though if I stayed with my stock jetting if that will help prevent a meltdown if I did the head gasket mod? I wouldn't think it would hurt.

Decisions decisions...
 
sr522re said:
Thanks for the info Bluemonster2. I'm thinking I might hold off on the head gasket mod now. The only gas I can find around here w/o ethanol is 87 octane. I'm curious though if I stayed with my stock jetting if that will help prevent a meltdown if I did the head gasket mod? I wouldn't think it would hurt.

Decisions decisions...
Click to expand...
You should be fine if you do the head gasket mod and leave the stock jetting in it as the jetting is set a little rich from the factory, you are only going to gain about 10 psi on a static compression test(if you checked before and after readings), but you will notice the gain when you hit the trottle, meaning the tune or pitch of the motor will sound a little different than what you are used to. Also there is another possible way to ensure that you dont have a meltdown is to add 10% of a high octane race gas(Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Cam2, Torco, etc) to your mix.
 
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