Exciter knowledge 101

Lasse said:
No, I have not found any used single pipe for sale regardless of manufacturer. :o|
Thanks, I appreciate it !!
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If Throttle Junkie buys my Ex SX engine then i will have a RPC Stealth pipe for sale as the only reason i was holding onto it was for a custom project going to be a little costly to get it to you but i do not mind shipping overseas
 
93Excited said:
Bluewho,

Are you saying even if the machine, from a cold start responds to being full, half, then no choked is driven till a bog condition arises, pull the brass and cables to see if either can be extended out to a "no-choke" position?

My 90 Exciter has a hole approx. 1/2" round above the carb intakes as well as the factory cut back in the corner. Are the more areas that can be cut out safely?

At 1200-1300 ft. Above sea level and northern MN winter temps would you try sizing down one on mains and going to 310 jets and trying 2nd from top needle clip position to resolve a persistent mid range bog experienced usually while coming down for a corner or trying to get back on it from mid range/half throttle?

I always experience excessive rich smelling smoke...?
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Ya that is what I ment but you have to be careful you don't loose the barrels. if you can pull down on them with pliers when it is off. and if they do come down they are sticking were the two cables come into one.Does it burn too much oil?Start here and then mod.
 
You can safely run 310's on an exciter II at your altitude. Try them first before you touch the needle. I thought it was stated earlier but bluwho is correct. The choke mechanism on the dash can stick if water gets in there and freezes. Also the cables can get dislodged from their seats (under the dash, at the split) if your trying to get the carbs out and are moving things around, they can get bound up like that if your not careful. Check the choke cable free play at the carbs or disconnect the cable after its warm to remove all doubt.
 
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Things on the 1990 Exciter bog are looking promising.

Bluewho and Throttle Junkie35,
My Exciter DOES use a lot of oil. I was talking with my dad the other day, I bought it from him and he commented on how a full oil reservoir should easily last a season if things are operating correct. I have noticed excessive fuel and oil consumption and even with it running only when I've been troubleshooting it I've had to fill the oil reservoir and fuel more than one would expect.



Yesterday on my recoil side carb I found a float that was sticking. I'd told myself that I have ruled that out but apparently I didn't catch it previously! I wanted to pound my head on the shop table. After I freed it up I checked float height and was @ 18mm without the new gaskets I put in. I replaced my 42.5 pilots, both looked bored and ports were irregular in shape from use. My needles look great. I put 310's in both mains.

I was thrilled as I put the carbs back in thinking I'd finally fixed it, I hope I have. After I put my choke/starter plungers back in, ironically I found my dash lever seized. It won't budge. I've done something obvious but now I'm at a point where I've pulled the entire cable out from my dash trying to figure out what went wrong. The assembly seems to be water tight and I've gotten WD-40 into the cables and they should be free. My springs and plungers are all still. When I pulled them I remember loosening the adjusters accidentally in attempt to remove the choke plungers.

I see what you are saying about any cables being dislodged from seats, there's a lot of junctions involved. If my lever used to work fine and now after removing carbs completely it's seized, does that signify I'm bound up at one such point?

Any help through this hiccup would be appreciated!
 
Hold the throttle wide open, then pull the oil pump cable apart at the adjuster. There is a metal end on the jacket of the cable. You should just be able to see the crimp dimple on that piece when you pull it apart with the throttle wide open. If this is the case, then your oil pump is adjusted properly.
 
Just tried starting and running the 1990 Exciter, it didn't go well. I think I have the choke issue resolved but now the machine can exceed 3000 rpm unless I shut the fuel off. It's like it's bogged all the time.

Is there a recommended amount of free play in the choke cables or do you just adjust till the choke feels right going through full, half and no choke positions?

I just don't know what to say about the sled now. I've never felt so sure about something. In all this I've made the condition worse.

Could my new vent lines be messing something up? I'm tempted to see if that float is sticking again.
 
I dont know what to tell you except the following. Did you in fact:
1. Install new needle and seats??
2: did you verify you have all the correct jetting?? (pilots, mains, needle and tube?)
3. did you rule out the fuel pump leaking into the case by removing the pulse line??
4. did you remove the choke cable from the carbs to rule out a hung up plunger??
5. Are you sure you installed the float arm correctly?
6. Did you in fact try 310 main jets??
7. Did you verify that the exhuast pipe isnt plugged with a mouse nest, or other reminants of rodent intruders??
8. Are the air box inlets open??.
9. Did you bypass the TORS??
Thats about all I got
 
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TJ35, and anyone willing...

1. I haven't installed new needles and seats. I've inspected them and see the assembly's are $14.37 so maybe I just should get two coming. Mine are 1.5's
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2. My pilots are new 42.5's my mains are new 310's my needles are 6FL68's not 6FL82's. Is that right? I've never removed my nozzles. Does that require a special tool? When re-assembling the valve body and I put that stainless replacement washer on top of the needle clip and the plastic original down in the depression. The other carb has both plastic originals
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3. I have not ruled out the pulse line. How do I diagnos that, running or off? Here's a pump that came in a box of parts with my SX/ST. Pulse is center with black hose that goes directly to case?
image.jpg

4. I've removed choke cables and I'm trying to get them set right. I need to get my manual back or find one online for the 1990 carbs. Interesting though, before full blown removal of carbs and disconnecting choke cables, the machine ran well usually. Now it barely moves and it can't pick up RPMs and speed until I close the fuel valve?
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5. I have checked my float arms and they measure about 18-19 mm between the 4 contact points with floats.
View attachment 62677

6. I tried my 310 mains yesterday but from the start the machine wasn't right. Before carb removal it ran well until the bog occurred. I thought It would be resolved when I found and when I freed up a float on my recoil side carb. It wasn't. Very poor idle, the condition worsened. The only thing that had changed was I got my choke cables adjustments all messed up by trying to remove the cables by the adjustment nuts.
View attachment 62678

7. I haven't checked my exhaust for nests. Is there some guesswork here or what works well? It's often near a hay barn so I should do this.

8. Airbox inlets are open
View attachment 62679


9. I don't know if TORS is bypassed. A friend said he did what he considered to be bypassing it and the machine started idling strangely as if and engine retarder was being applied. It was "popping" consistently but slower that 2 cylinders idling. He put the wires back where they were. Any connection with TORS and the carb switches that thread into the body with the internal plastic tip? Mine aren't wired up.

Thanks! I appreciate your time!
 
Man you have really made a mountain out of a mole hill here!The choke needs freeplay to work properly in the off position.If there is no freeplay it will run fine when cold but will run like a bag of you no what when warm.Back off the adjusters and have someone flip the handle while you try to pull the barrel down !If it sticks at all you will need a new set IMO as it will come back to bite you on a cold day.So if you have pulled them down and put them back try too start with no choke and see how it runs.
 
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