clutching viper 780 again


Have test more now. I added little weight in the tip and the sled runs great but very bad backshift in higher speeds. It seems to be this weights bad side. Today I have tested 8dn ,89L and 8bu00 and I am not satisfied. Heelclicker? How about drag and fly?
 
More testing today. 8bu00 with y-w-y. 51-45 hauck helix with green spring at 70. 2-3 celsius out. when the clutches is pretty cold the sled runs great and good backshift. But the clutches goes pretty hot and then the rpms drop. If I drive 60 mph and pull the throttle I only see 8000rpm and it starts to climb slowly up to 9k. This not happend when the clutches was colder. Next step? Should I order heelclicker?
 
viperhauck said:
More testing today. 8bu00 with y-w-y. 51-45 hauck helix with green spring at 70. 2-3 celsius out. when the clutches is pretty cold the sled runs great and good backshift. But the clutches goes pretty hot and then the rpms drop. If I drive 60 mph and pull the throttle I only see 8000rpm and it starts to climb slowly up to 9k. This not happend when the clutches was colder. Next step? Should I order heelclicker?
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well, first off you cant have a drag race/fast speed set up and a good backshifting set up in 1, there is no such thing!!. So you have to set up the sled for what you want it to do for the riding your doing 90% of the time. With your set up you likely need to use a silver secondary at a lower setting to get better control of the belt on the shift with the 51/45 and 8 bu weights. You can wind up the green to 80,90 and if the set up gets better thats your problem. Ususally your better off to go up to the next stiffest rate at a lower setting though instead of using a spring at 90 or above.

As for heel clcickers, yes, they will clamp the belt like nothing else as you found out in the other sled you installed them in. I would stay with the 40-10 heel clcicker weights and not the drag n flys. You will need to use a shallower helix then the 51/45, something more like 50/40, 50/38, 51/37
 
mrviper700 said:
well, first off you cant have a drag race/fast speed set up and a good backshifting set up in 1, there is no such thing!!. So you have to set up the sled for what you want it to do for the riding your doing 90% of the time. With your set up you likely need to use a silver secondary at a lower setting to get better control of the belt on the shift with the 51/45 and 8 bu weights. You can wind up the green to 80,90 and if the set up gets better thats your problem. Ususally your better off to go up to the next stiffest rate at a lower setting though instead of using a spring at 90 or above.

As for heel clcickers, yes, they will clamp the belt like nothing else as you found out in the other sled you installed them in. I would stay with the 40-10 heel clcicker weights and not the drag n flys. You will need to use a shallower helix then the 51/45, something more like 50/40, 50/38, 51/37
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The thing I think is strange is with above setup the sled work great before the clutches become hot. And a other thing, how hot are they allowed to be? After my testruns (maybe 5-10min pretty hard runs) I can only have my hand for 1-2 sec on both primary and secondary.
 
viperhauck said:
And I have also change my 22 gear so now its 23/40
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now your geared at 1.96 ratio, still pretty steep, that would be good for 500ft racing.

I would think youd be better off around 1.7-1.8 ratio, for trail riding. With your 8 tooth drivers, you have to remember your automaticly gearing it down more because its a smaller diameter driver. youd need to run 23/37 gearing to be at 1.82

the reason your clutching gets worse with heat is your slipping the belt. You should be able to put your hands on the clutch and its just warm, if you pull your hand off it because of the temp with a involuntary reflex(ouch), its slipping the belt too much and producing heat.
 
mrviper700 said:
now your geared at 1.96 ratio, still pretty steep, that would be good for 500ft racing.

I would think youd be better off around 1.7-1.8 ratio, for trail riding. With your 8 tooth drivers, you have to remember your automaticly gearing it down more because its a smaller diameter driver. youd need to run 23/37 gearing to be at 1.82

the reason your clutching gets worse with heat is your slipping the belt. You should be able to put your hands on the clutch and its just warm, if you pull your hand off it because of the temp with a involuntary reflex(ouch), its slipping the belt too much and producing heat.
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Why do the belt slipping? The belt is new. 8dn belt. Is it because the bad backshift?
 
Try to add more weight, so the primary get a tighter grip of the belt, and maby you need to tighten the preload in the secondary, then it wont slip as easy as it probably does if they get that hot
 
Now have my heelclicker kit arrived. So next weekend I hope to make some testing. It would be best if I can use my hauck v helix (51-45) I have a bender helix to but I dont know the angle. Any suggest on base setting? I also bought a -99 mach z for the carbs. Talk to a guy who suggest to bore them to 39.3mm. Any comments on that?
 
if ur getting a lot of heat on ur sheaves means ur slipping the belt, bender has a blue and white spring which is for the roller clutch he has , it has more rate than any of the yami clutches and i use this spring in my secondary for my nytro with the drag and fly weights at 68 grams the set up im running have beat f7 cats and raced a 700 srx beat him out of the hole and held my postion on the track at 650 ft mark, with that set up and a 153 mountain track 52/44 helix .
i dominate the 600 classes in the impr and snow pro 600 and am placing in the top 3 stock 700 class so far, still have more on the table but will have to go threw the chassi and blue print it this summer. gearing is at 20/39 . i have found that 18/40 is 2 low gearing for 500 ft primary fully shifted at that point. u are better like mr viper says 1.1 ratio on ur primary which would put ur belt about a 1/4 inch down from the top of the primary. put a black marker felt on ur primary so u can see how far it is shifting up. it will clean the felt off up to where it stops shifting
 
the heavy black spring that drag and fly sends with the kit and allso the long white spring which they say is for the nytro. but i use the black one as u can put small shims be hind it for higher engage ment 2 small shims heavy black spring at 5100 enggage ment and 8700 68 grams bender blue and white spring from his roller rooster secondary . if u want perfection in ur secondary then get the sheaves machined true they ar about .010 thou out of round.
 
I going to use the red or maybe silver primary spring that comes with the heelclicker kit. But I need a baseline to start with if anyone has a idea.
 
if its a new kit u got a manual where to start with the bolts...hope the best for u ...i didnt get good result in trail with heel clicker in snow in warm days ...
 
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