WOT RPMS Fall After Couple Of Seconds


looks like mabey no 12 on your microfishe cant really tell kind blurry. that main bearing there theres only one of them
 
:) you dont havta be sorry. just trying to help. im sure someone will have the right answer for ya.
 
only other things i could possibly think of myself to ask is if your clutch align=ment is ok and if it was doing this problem prior to when you bought the sled? im baffled myself now.
 
Just to be clear, this happens from a standstill - full throttle - approx. 8300 RPM and then drops to 75-7700 RPM? Any difference if you roll on the throttle slowly??? Just curious.
 
if you washed the new belt before you installed it it should not do this, the belt is slipping.when a belt slipps it heat the belt and it grabs the secondary better and over shifts.take the belt off and wash it with hotwater and soap.try an old belt see what it does
 
northern srx said:
Just to be clear, this happens from a standstill - full throttle - approx. 8300 RPM and then drops to 75-7700 RPM? Any difference if you roll on the throttle slowly??? Just curious.


This is happening from running in the trails, going to open field at round 7,000 RPM and then pinning it.
 
tedgoesfast said:
if you washed the new belt before you installed it it should not do this, the belt is slipping.when a belt slipps it heat the belt and it grabs the secondary better and over shifts.take the belt off and wash it with hotwater and soap.try an old belt see what it does


Last winter when I had the same problem, I would wash the belt, wash all 4 clutch sheaves, put belt back on and it would do the same thing. Perhaps the issue is the belt marks is what is causing the RPMS to drop by 1,000. How do I solve the belt marks? Check alignment again? All 4 clutch sheaves are cool to the touch (fixed primary being the warmest as it is closest to motor).
 
I had the same problem today...I was reading your posts and checked all of the things you did. it was kind of driving me crazy beacuse the sled was working amazing last week and terrible yesterday. Wot hit 8100 then dropped to 7000 like an overshift in my clutches. checked my power valves because I relocated them to make room for my tour buddy. Turns out, took off the servo motor cover and there was one cable disconnected, dont ask me how it stumped me to be honest. I didnt think it would really cause this problem cause it felt like clutches. but makes sense i guess if your not makeing the power to pull the clutches they wont shift properly either. might be worth a second look.
 
I had a pull thru on mag cylinder 2 years ago. Replaced it with a brand new one ans set the cables. Last year, my light was flashing over 6,500 RPM so I gave it a bit more slack and the warning light stopped blinking. They have been cleaned 3 times in the last 600 miles. I guess I will have to go over it again.
 
SRX_700 said:
I had a pull thru on mag cylinder 2 years ago. Replaced it with a brand new one ans set the cables. Last year, my light was flashing over 6,500 RPM so I gave it a bit more slack and the warning light stopped blinking. They have been cleaned 3 times in the last 600 miles. I guess I will have to go over it again.


Worth a shot. It surprised me cause i had two pull trews last year and it still worked better than that but then again i had stock clutching then aswell.
 
orchie18 said:
I had the same problem today...I was reading your posts and checked all of the things you did. it was kind of driving me crazy beacuse the sled was working amazing last week and terrible yesterday. Wot hit 8100 then dropped to 7000 like an overshift in my clutches. checked my power valves because I relocated them to make room for my tour buddy. Turns out, took off the servo motor cover and there was one cable disconnected, dont ask me how it stumped me to be honest. I didnt think it would really cause this problem cause it felt like clutches. but makes sense i guess if your not makeing the power to pull the clutches they wont shift properly either. might be worth a second look.

I believe the belt marks are a result of dropped RPM at shift out. Now just got to figure out why the dropped RPMs at WOT only.
 
I would think that a slipping belt would increase the RPM, not decrease it.

If you keep your finger to the bar, will RPM slowly climb after it has dropped to 7000 ?

Make sure your clutches are lined up as they should be, perhaps the motor is a little out of true. This would cause the belt to leave black on the sheaves.

Does the sled roll well when not under power ?
No hangups in the skid, jackshaft, drive shaft, track ?
 
Sleigher said:
I would think that a slipping belt would increase the RPM, not decrease it.

If you keep your finger to the bar, will RPM slowly climb after it has dropped to 7000 ?

Make sure your clutches are lined up as they should be, perhaps the motor is a little out of true. This would cause the belt to leave black on the sheaves.

Does the sled roll well when not under power ?
No hangups in the skid, jackshaft, drive shaft, track ?

Sled rolls well on its own. Will have to checl alignment again. Clutch sheaves are cool to the touch.
 
i had a similar problem last year - hit wot 8300 and the fall to 7000 or less. TORS wasn't connected correctly the one bullet was out just a bit. once i pushed it tight it went away - worth a shot..
 
383stroker said:
what about tighten up the secondary so the belt does fall into the sheaves as fast.

It's a red spring wrapped at 80. I will try 90 and see if that fixes it.
 
kallio said:
i had a similar problem last year - hit wot 8300 and the fall to 7000 or less. TORS wasn't connected correctly the one bullet was out just a bit. once i pushed it tight it went away - worth a shot..

My TORS is currently disconnected as it only works intermittently.
 
i read where yamaha belts were a fairly hard compound so that they will last a long time. might be a fine line between slipping and not. i would not be afraid to hit those sheaves with a 220 grit.
 


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