Blown cylinder (photos) srx 700

[travgag]

Well its the end of the season up here in ontario and just in time my engine blew , so i have all summer to rebuilt it eh ! haha

I cant figure out what went wrong, so here's the story

The recoil blew up on me early in the season, I had posted about it and then ran it all season without a recoil since I couldn't find one in town. Then after two or three more rides the stator went also (I found more pieces of the recoil that causes havoc in the mag). changed the stator first pull and fired right up ! so loaded it up on the trailer and went out the next day,

Get it off the trailer and fired right up but seamed to idle a little high, something like 2,500 ish 3,000, so i turn the idle down and started to ride slowly, not even thinking that it had leaned out (which I think happened) I go to start driving and ran like shit, so i changed a few plugs with ones I had sitting as spare (older ones, since i was fooling around with plugs trying to get a good spark when the stator was shot) still ran like crap, it wasn't bad, bad but wouldnt rev past 8 on the lake and didnt have loads of power, I figured still a bad plug, wire, power valves, or it was still cold or something wierd, 30 or more minutes later after riding i go to swap some plugs and head home and the center plug seamed pretty white and burnt off like in the photo, i was like ohhh noo she's doomed, drove to the closest road and left it there to come pick it up,

So it could be the carbs that clogged up, but i cleaned then at the start of the season, i never changed the fuel filter, neither did the previous owner, but i don't think that would cause this, the boots look good, so im thinking the crank seals, but i ran it today and sprayed some ether around the primary and stator and no real response, the stator i change into the sled was one the previous owner had gave me with a few pistons, jugs, another set of carbs he had bought for parts, he said its possible the stator is from a 01 and is the higher wattage stator than my 98, but doubt if it would cause a failure like this,

now the primary side cylinder also had a burnt plug by the end of the hour i had rode, and the front of the piston is starting to ware like the center one is, and the mag side is mint, i think the ring bounced around and not the plug that cause that damage, both the mag and primary jugs are smooth but the center one is shot, I have 2 spare jugs and pistons I can use from that guy

any ideas ? ive never rebuilt a sled and this is my first srx, how do i go about this ? thanks a bunch everyone !

 

[Backwoods M Max]

center cylinder was very lean and for a long time, lots of detonation and it looks like the upper ring land melted away as opposed to mechanical damage

 

[bluemonster1]

wow did you ever do a number on that motor..that will cost you some $$$..but if you don\t find out why this happened,after the rebuild it will happen all over again.So you better go by the book and go thru everything and make sure all parts are OEM and in good working condition..from stator to seals to bearings to crank to top end..etc.It may be cheaper just finding another SRX I am thinking now..you'll probably spend close to $2000 when your done...

 

[davidgboy]

get yourself an aftermarket manual(much more instructive than factory). u need 1 good used cylinder/head, gasket kit, set of pistons/rings, crank seals, will have to get crank checked out. i would do this first before u decide on a particular course of action. if u are pretty sure engine is positioned properly(clutches are aligned properly) u should drill a small hole ~1/8" in each of the front engine mounts next to the bolts. drill thru the mount into the bulkhead a little ways. then when u replace the engine u can put a drill bit into each set of holes and engine will be right where it was. good luck

 

[SRX_700]

Leaky carb boot and/or clogged fuel filter hat behind the needle and seat.

 

[Devilin AblueDress!]

Agree with lean for a while in center. Doubtful recoilor stator issue had anything to do with it. I dont think an 01 stator would plug in to your 98 harness. I would tend to think crud in carbs or bad fuel. Finish tearing down, have crank checked out and put it back together unless you decide to pick up a used motor for it. I would go threw them carbs before firing it back up. Instead of drilling holes in stuff you can buy the cheap alingment tool and do it right($20), It might be off just a little right now

 

[travgag]

yea so probibly something with the carbs, the crank shouldnt be affected, cant i just change piston, rings and the jug ? what do you mean by drilling holes and alignment ?

thanks

 

[davidgboy]

Instead of drilling holes in stuff you can buy the cheap alingment tool and do it right($20), It might be off just a little right now

might as well check it first then. if fine then drill holes and will always be where u want it.

 

[davidgboy]

mine was factory before i removed it. it went back in factory by using holes. will go back factory if need be again. understand?

 

[travgag]

ive never opened up a case, so drilling a hole in the crank to remove it ? what would be off ? off balance the crank ?

sorry for not understanding,

 

[davidgboy]

yea so probibly something with the carbs, the crank shouldnt be affected, cant i just change piston, rings and the jug ? what do you mean by drilling holes and alignment ?

thanks

that engine does not set back in chasis in one fixed position. it is adjustable left to right and forward to back. u will need an alignment tool unless u are sure engine has not been removed before. this aligns your primary clutch with secondary which is semi- fixed(is able to slide left to right to self align. manual and or toll should have instructions. should not assume crank is o.k. besides u should put in seals. u may decide to get another engine or entire sled. unless u are eager to learn how to rebuild this engine i would not try and get out of it easy. will only seem easy. the clock will be ticking.

 

[davidgboy]

toll (tool)

 

[bluemonster1]

don't drill holes in the crank..lol..he means drill 1/8 inch holes thru the engine mount to chassis for future alignment if it was aligned good..actually that is a cool idea davidboy...

 

[travgag]

ahh okay ! I understand, yea everything is stock from what i know and never been pulled, that makes sense so you can reset the egine at the same spot it was before, cost wise I'll try to rebuilt it and i will change the seals and inspect the crank, and check out the carbs and fuel filter to see if they are culprits

 

[davidgboy]

ive never opened up a case, so drilling a hole in the crank to remove it ? what would be off ? off balance the crank ?

sorry for not understanding,

these engines are not set into one fixed position in chasis. there is allowance for it to be positioned more one way to the left or right and back or forth. this allows the primary clutch(on engine) to be aligned properly with the secondary clutch which is fixed forward and back but can slide left or right to self align. forget about the holes and get an alignment tool. u do not know if engine is still in factory position. my suggestion is to not do this job yourself. u will need someone to assist u do to lack of experience. good luck

 

[davidgboy]

ahh okay ! I understand, yea everything is stock from what i know and never been pulled, that makes sense so you can reset the egine at the same spot it was before, cost wise I'll try to rebuilt it and i will change the seals and inspect the crank, and check out the carbs and fuel filter to see if they are culprits

maybe you are up to the task. did not mean to sound demeaning it just seemed u were rather inexperienced. did not want u to have any more grief than necessary.

 

[bluemonster1]

my $150 alignment tool works great and the torque limiter on the back of the engine doesn't hurt either.Had to redrill the mounting holes in the side panel to get my torque adjuster just right,in stock holes the engine would still move back some..all fixed now...centre to centre is still right on after 2 seasons of riding already..

 

[davidgboy]

don't drill holes in the crank..lol..he means drill 1/8 inch holes thru the engine mount to chassis for future alignment if it was aligned good..actually that is a cool idea davidboy...

thank you sir. would be good idea to check with tool first and once happy with its position, drill holes and be done with it for the future.

 

[travgag]

ive worked mostly on cars and bikes, changin tranmission and headgaskets among everything else, but il give it a shot il read up as much as i can so when i put it back together she runs again lol

 

[davidgboy]

my $150 alignment tool works great and the torque limiter on the back of the engine doesn't hurt either.Had to redrill the mounting holes in the side panel to get my torque adjuster just right,in stock holes the engine would still move back some..all fixed now...centre to centre is still right on after 2 seasons of riding already..

having less powerful engine(stock viper) does have some advantages