munisean
VIP Lifetime Member
Who on this site is still selling these stavex double grip rivets? I would like to purchase 50. Please PM me. Maybe some backer washers if available.
Thanks.
Thanks.
super1c
Super Moderator
Ding did last i knew. If not OFT racing a site sponser does also. You wont need backer washers with the double grip rivets. And if you just need them they are at any hardware.
Ding
Darn Tootin'
I do have a few thousand on hand if the others are out. I sell them for what it costs me. If anyone wants 1/4" Stavex, I have some of those too. I have some large head, and some black anodized as well. Have some structural rivets like the ones in foot rest also.
Batwolf
Member
Ding, I'm replacing all rusted and loose rivets in both my 03 Viper and 97 Vmax. Do you still have some? I'm not sure of the specific kind I need, so these will mainly be tunnel rivets, but some that also require replacing are footwell rivets and trailing arm brackets. I was thinking of just buying a 100ct. of aluminum w/ stainless steel mandrels to avoid rust..
Viktory2k1
VIP Member
Thats a great idea, tractor/trailer shops carry the rivets. There is a special buck rivet bit that fits in an air hammer. Then you use a block of steel on the backside to mushroom it over. Trailers are made of 1000's of these(van style).
captnviper
Lifetime Member
I used buck rivets for my m10 install, worked awesome.Thats a great idea, tractor/trailer shops carry the rivets. There is a special buck rivet bit that fits in an air hammer. Then you use a block of steel on the backside to mushroom it over. Trailers are made of 1000's of these(van style).
Cherrypicker
Member
I ran into an issue like this years ago on a 97 SX, rear mounts for the front suspension arms loosened. I don't know where you could get 1/4 rivets or a tool for installing them. I went down to local hardware pickup up some stainless 1/4 pan head screws, washers and nylock nuts, also used red locktite, still there today.
captnviper
Lifetime Member
i can't see buck rivets coming loose.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Solid_Buck_Riveting_s/206.htm
I found mine at a local semi trailer parts place. Guy gave me a great deal and was surprised when I told him what I was using them for.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Solid_Buck_Riveting_s/206.htm
I found mine at a local semi trailer parts place. Guy gave me a great deal and was surprised when I told him what I was using them for.
Viktory2k1
VIP Member
Another option would be something called a MONOBOLT, basically a really big rivet.
Cherrypicker
Member
Have you considered 1/4" stainless screws/bolts, with nylock nuts? Used them to mount trailing end mounts on 97 SX700, used red loctite, been on there a long long time. 1/4 rivets and rivet tools are hard to find.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I did that too. Reattached the grab bar to it and the extension.I went and bought some aluminum 1 1/2x 1 1/2 angle and attached them in the inside corners of the tunnel and tunnel extension for extra support. It hardly added any weight and I just used normal rivets in the tunnel extension since they weren't depended on as much for support. Seems to be holding up good.
captnviper
Lifetime Member
Buck tools are as easy as a hammer and chunk of steel. Though air hammer with 1" or so blunt tool makes it easy peasyHave you considered 1/4" stainless screws/bolts, with nylock nuts? Used them to mount trailing end mounts on 97 SX700, used red loctite, been on there a long long time. 1/4 rivets and rivet tools are hard to find.
Batwolf
Member
Actually started to do this for my trailing arm mounts. I used allen style pan head 1/4 bolts with cap nuts and red loctite. The rustoleum treated stainless looks great and ought to hold up very well. As far as tunnel rivets, I do still intend to replace all the ones that hold up the heat exchangers and various brackets. It'll just look really good a clean again.