orchie18
Member
Is there any difference between an H arm on the rear suspension of a mountain sled and the W arms of the 121 suspension. Does it change the approach angle?
i have a couple of mtn skids sitting here with the the H arms. lets compare them.
i know from experience the better approach angle was achieved with moving the w arm on the rails as well as relocating the skid back on pre-2000 sleds in mtn trim as well as rearranging short tracks to long tracks.
in my opinion, the key to the approach has been the relocation of the skid and the front arm. i would like to compare measures between the H's and W's, if you have the time.
i know from experience the better approach angle was achieved with moving the w arm on the rails as well as relocating the skid back on pre-2000 sleds in mtn trim as well as rearranging short tracks to long tracks.
in my opinion, the key to the approach has been the relocation of the skid and the front arm. i would like to compare measures between the H's and W's, if you have the time.
x2 i wanted to know the diff to
Weight diff?
Weight diff?
orchie18
Member
I have a 121 stock skid and a 144 rails and H arm to build a long track in my srx. I will measure the lenght between the two. Just got me thinking when i was changing them over to the longer rails the limit straps mount in a different spot .
as well as the limiter straps being of different lengths along with the transfer rods. i think the key to your equation will be if and any difference on the front arms.
if your going from a 121 to the 144, the front arm needs to be relocated in the tunnel as well as the center and rear mounts. this change will reduce the approach angle as well as increase the ride height(footboards over the snow)
if your going from a 121 to the 144, the front arm needs to be relocated in the tunnel as well as the center and rear mounts. this change will reduce the approach angle as well as increase the ride height(footboards over the snow)
orchie18
Member
I may be wrong but the front location should be the same? the center and rear will be different with drop brackets for the rear
consider this: all my short track sleds the front arm bolts on near the footrests. all my mtn sleds and all the sleds i have converted the front arm mounts 8 7/8" back from the drive axle. some i have split this distance and moved the arm on the rails forward to get my needed clearance.(97-99 136 mtn sleds)
your dealing with 144 rails. my mtn vipers were 144, my mtn maxes were 141, they both used the same dimensions back from the driveshaft at the 8 7/8" mark. where is your arm mounted now in proportion to the drive axle?
your dealing with 144 rails. my mtn vipers were 144, my mtn maxes were 141, they both used the same dimensions back from the driveshaft at the 8 7/8" mark. where is your arm mounted now in proportion to the drive axle?
orchie18
Member
It has a viper skid mounted in factory srx location
orchie18
Member
Ok i was looking at pics of mountain vipers and can see now that the skids are farther back in the tunnel. Just seems weird that the rails dont make up the difference for the longer track. Do you have the measurements for the mounting holes for the front center and the rear drop bracket.
i have them wrote down somewhere? or i can measure some of my sleds. easily done. my numbers will be in inches(i see your north). if you dont have the conversion i can give it to you.
i still want to compare arms and mount locations to the rails.
i still want to compare arms and mount locations to the rails.
orchie18
Member
ok that sounds great, we have std measurements here as well as metric lol. I noticed the lower shock mount must be differnet as it does not seem to line up nice. The short 121 viper skid i have has the limiter straps attached to it, will i need a mountain lower shock mount or could i modify the one i have. i will run out and get the measurements on the arm.
orchie18
Member
The current front suspension mount is 4 3/4" from center of drive shaft. I measured the New H arm and it is 15 inches center to center, the same as the W arm.
apparently i make crappy notes to the point i dont understand my own handwriting. i will need to stop by my trailer for some clarification, but heres some numbers to play with but not commit to:
butting the square edge of the drive shaft the front arm hole is 8 7/8" to center and down 6 3/8 off the outside top of the tunnel. center mounts is 13 3/8" back from the front hole and yamaha gave provisional holes of 5 3/16 and 5 13/16 of the outside top of the tunnel. from there you move back 15 1/2" to the rear mount. 8 3/4" down from the top of the tunnel to the mount hole on the drop bracket with a provisional hole option 1 1/8" above.
these numbers should be +/- 1/16", but i would like to refresh with a sled in front of me.
butting the square edge of the drive shaft the front arm hole is 8 7/8" to center and down 6 3/8 off the outside top of the tunnel. center mounts is 13 3/8" back from the front hole and yamaha gave provisional holes of 5 3/16 and 5 13/16 of the outside top of the tunnel. from there you move back 15 1/2" to the rear mount. 8 3/4" down from the top of the tunnel to the mount hole on the drop bracket with a provisional hole option 1 1/8" above.
these numbers should be +/- 1/16", but i would like to refresh with a sled in front of me.
orchie18
Member
There looks to be a hole quite close to where the 144 skid front mount should be located. The previous owner had a zx3 suspension in it at one time. Is there a way to get the measurement from the top of the tunnel with out taking off the gas tank
yes. deduct 1/8" and measure inside the tunnel. look up there first and make sure your measuring device isnt hitting any of the steel stiffener plates inside the tunnel. you will see what i mean when you look up in there. goldish colored angle pieces with lots of rivets.
YamaChris
New member
I was just going to make a similar post about H and W arms. Any benefits of swapping out a W for a H? Any breaking issues on the H arms? I have a 141 suspension for parts and was comparing the two.
i for one have never broken a w or an h arm. i wouldnt exactly call my riding style easy.
YamaChris
New member
I have never actually broke one myself, but have bought used sleds that had cracks. It is usually one of the first things I check. I was looking at this H arm thinking it might be an option. I wonder if it is a little lighter too.
orchie18
Member
Gonna punch out some new hole for the longer track. Should i get new mounting brackets for the different suspension and keep the 121 mounts in the same place incase i change it back in the future.
if the stockers dont impeed anything, by all means leave them there. just look at the oem rivetry and that may help you decide.
for years i have simply made my backing plates from .125 aluminum. i make mine at apprx 1 1/4" X 2", rivet them in place. inside the tunnel for a clean look, outside the tunnel if its not an issue. paint. dont forget to factor in some structural ridgity in the tunnel. whatcha doing for drops on the rear?
you need to consider my riding style vs yours. i have never had an issue with my setups, but i dont trail ride.
i have a tentative measure on an h-arm at around 14 7/8" c/c. anyone toss a tape at a w-arm yet? scales will be next.
for years i have simply made my backing plates from .125 aluminum. i make mine at apprx 1 1/4" X 2", rivet them in place. inside the tunnel for a clean look, outside the tunnel if its not an issue. paint. dont forget to factor in some structural ridgity in the tunnel. whatcha doing for drops on the rear?
you need to consider my riding style vs yours. i have never had an issue with my setups, but i dont trail ride.
i have a tentative measure on an h-arm at around 14 7/8" c/c. anyone toss a tape at a w-arm yet? scales will be next.