Differences between W arm H arm

I cut mine down half inch on both sides. Longtrack sleds that use drop brackets have shorter shafts to compensate for the thickness of the drop brackets. was pretty easy to cut them down with a hack saw and file. heres a pic of my progress thus far.
 

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Does the h arm weight less than the w arm? Can a h be used on a pro action 121" in place of the w arm?
 
they seem to be the same length and dimensions, not sure they would be much lighter. The limiter straps are attached differently, also not sure if it to any advantage over the w arm.
 
Have the suspension in now. Looks good but it has no movement. seems to be binding. What could cause this. I cant even get the transfer rods in place. The rail tips seem quite close to the drivers aswell. I will assume the holes must not be in the right place?
 
backtracking a bit, you used 144 rails along with all the 121 hardware mounted in the existing holes on the 144 rails?

from there you relocated the skid per the dimensions i gave so the front arm is located apprx 9" back from the driveshaft? whats your definition of close between the rail tips and the drivers?

i will have a viper mtn here in the next few days for a 151 conversion. may be much easier for comparisons, unless your in a big hurry. probably a simple fix in your situation, be patient.
 
yes, 144 rails H arm, with stock viper hardware. the Front mounts are 9 in from the driveshaft and the other measurements to spec. Here are some pics to help see what i have going on. There is no movement what so ever.
 

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rail tips to drivers is a concern, i recall a bit more distance. lets try a few skid measures just for confirming.

using the plastic rail tips as a beginning point and measuring in somewhat of a straight line(not following the curvature of the rails but straight plane), numbers are apprx, +/- 1/8"-1/4":

rail tip to front bolt center on front lower shock mount= 18 1/4"
rail tip to front bolt on h-arm at rail= 22 5/8"
center to center on the h-arm bracket at the rails= 3"
center to center from the rear bolt on the h-arm to rail bracket to the rear scissor at rail bolt= 21 3/4".
pulled these numbers from a 141 skid, same dimensions, shorter rails.

besides the obvious not looking right, the amount of track you have sagging on the floor doesnt appear as though the slack could be taken up with the adjusters. could be the camera angle, could be something else.
 
All measurements seem to be the same I found my h arm rear bolt to rear scissor bolt was 22.5 inches but they are all factory holes so they are no doubt the same. Was reading some other post and its saying the from mount should be at 14.25 instead of 9
 
14" would be excessive and incorrect. i would be curious to read that thread or post.

heres what i have from an 01 mtn max for dimensions. this from a bare tunnel.
same configuration for the 03-04 mtn vipers as i have cross installed mtn viper skids into 2000 and up mtn maxes and they were direct bolt ins.

butting the flat lobe on the driveshaft to center of front arm: 9 1/4"
center of front to center of center:13 3/8".
center of center to center of rear: 15 1/2"

i wouldnt think the 3/8 variable on the front arm would create your dilemma, but i guess it could factor in. i apologize if i misinformed you, but i do recall a mention of verifying. water under the bridge, lets focus on what you have now and getting it to work.

your srx should share the same key components in the suspension for the most part as the mtn sleds,(lower shock mount, upper scissor, control rods, etc), except the rear scissor bracket thats mounted to the rails. dont know if that makes a difference, but its something we could compare. also the mtn vipers have different part numbers for the control rods over the mtn max. i would have to compare those.
 
Had another look at the sled tonight, theres no way the skid is either in right position or the rails are not long enought. There is no wheres near enough adjustment to ever get the track tight enough. Measured my rails and they measure 56 inches from rail tips straight line not following the curve. All my mounts are with in an 1/8th of an inch.
 
21 13/16 from the center of the rear bracket bolt on the front scissor to rails to the center of the rear scissor bolt(hope that made sense).

15 5/8 c/c on the control rods. just so we are on the same page, the control rods are the flat bars used to couple the front to the rear, not the tranfer rods.

sounds like your now seeing what i was seeing. i still disagree with the 14" placement on the other thread. thats almost 5". seems like the rear drops would be located outside the main tunnel section? not how it works on my stuff.

at 56", sounds like a 141 skid. where did you get the rails?
 
and i forgot to mention, about 3" center to center from the rail bolt to where that scissor mounts to the scissor mounted to the rails. hard to put into words for me apparently.
 
makes perfect sense. are you measuring to the end of the rail itself or are you including the bracket for the adjuster nut? next we can compare measuring following the rail from where the hyfax meets the plastic cap back to the end of the rail.
orchie18 said:
Does a rail length of 56 inches tip to tip make sense
 
The hyfax measures 54 inches from the plastic cap to the end of the rail. Cant seem to understand how the track is so loose if everything is in the right postion and skid lenght.
 
is that a straight line measure as well or following the rail contour? straightline is eerily similar to the 141 i have sitting here.

next thing i would do is confirm the track length and pitch. may not be the 144 you think it is. easy to confirm. first measure the distance between the lugs. should be close to 2 1/2". next count the windows or the lugs and multiply by 2.52. seems as though there is a possibility the rails were misrepresented the track may have been as well. looks like a 151 hanging there. wouldnt surprise me a bit.
 
That is following the contours, +/- a half inch. The tack is definatly a 144, 57 lugs, 252 pitch. Bough the rails from a feloow member, supposed to be from a mountain viper. Is there any other way to identify the rails, man what a pain.
 
you may try and mock up the dimensions from dirtjumper although i dont really agree with them. i wouldnt comit to hole drilling just yet but kinda imagine everything being located rearward another 5". appears like it may solve the track issue as well as the proxcimity to the drivers. i would be curious as to where the rear drops would locate and the 153 length is a bit misleading. on mountain tunnels, i have actually had to move the front mount forward for the ac 153 skids to make them work. perhaps there is something in the 2000 and up short track tunnels i have missed.

starting another viper mtn 144-151 conversion this weekend, so i will have a refresher in front of me. cant wait to see what the differences are.
 


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