Whats the best track?

you have to grind a little from the brackets to make them fit,simple as pie.Also may have to shim back side on one end with a washer to flush it up to frame..
 

thanks blue well sounds like once i get my skid done i will be flipping the brackets hoping it goes good. did u just do the long travel recently or did u have time to dial it in? sorry guys for all the ?s just got alot to do before the snow flies lol
 
Stealth,
I'd suggest for maximum longevity of your new track, that you do what Blue did on the picture of his track. Wherever there is a stud on the outside of the rail, DO NOT put them there. Rather, drill a hole next to the corresponding one on the inside. The ones on the outside work very well for increasing bite, but the track will suffer. You'll need 24 double backers & 120 standard I believe.
 
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A couple of bucks said:
Stealth,
I'd suggest the maximum longevity of your new track, that you do what Blue did on the picture of his track. Wherever there is a stud on the outside of the rail, DO NOT put them there. Rather, drill a hole next to the corresponding one on the inside. The ones on the outside work very well for increasing bite, but the track will suffer. You'll need 24 double backers & 120 standard I believe.


While I generally agree with COB, the Kimpex Agressor (precursor to the Ultimate) on my '01 is almost 10 years old with over 5K miles and it looks nearly brand new... with every other outside segment studded.

I've pulled a few outer studs on genuine Polaris tracks over the years and it stopped when I adjusted my riding style (becoming more judicious with the loud lever in marginal conditions).

I guess my point is that studding on the outside works fine as long as you account for them when riding in marginal conditions.

...and a beefy track helps too.

my .02
 
snomofo said:
While I generally agree with COB, the Kimpex Agressor (precursor to the Ultimate) on my '01 is almost 10 years old with over 5K miles and it looks nearly brand new... with every other outside segment studded.

I guess my point is that studding on the outside works fine as long as you account for them when riding in marginal conditions.

...and a beefy track helps too.

my .02
The Aggressor is the KING of the beefy tracks. Kevlar wrapped and all. When you say bulletproof about those, you're not to far off. Too bad they don't offer them in pre-molded!!!!
 
a couple of bucks i know what u mean, Ive been really considering just leaving the middle studded on whatever track I get an see how i like it an if it handles good. The stock track I have on now has about 7,600 miles but wasnt studded until about 5,500 miles an I havent had any pull throughs, but i know i wouldnt be happy if i had some outside studs pull out on my brand new track lol Im really leaning towards the kimpex right now, and was wondering if any of u guys noticed any speed loss with this track? I know it weighs less than the stocker but thought it was a heavier track?
 
well I think you guys have really helped me make my mind up. unless I find an amazing deal on a camoplast energy track, I think im gonna go with the 1" aggressor it sounds like a very strong track that will hook up good and thats exactly what Im looking for. Too bad I couldnt find someone with a nice barely used track, but usually all I find is ripsaws lol
 
I do believe they make that aggressor track in a 1.2 version just have too search more

An 1.2 full block track would be Ideal for the SRX
 
1.2" Aggressor huh? Ill have to check that out. I was maybe thinking of going with a 1.25" track but want to run studs and saw in other threads that u have to def change to 9 tooth drivers, just dont want to puncture my hx?
 
You have to change to 8 tooth to run studs in a 1.25". If you are going with a 1.25" and trail ride the go with a cobra. If you are ice racing then use the 1" with studs. I will never use a track smaller than 1.25 now, my srx with the 1.5" crossover loves the trail.
 
stealther27 said:
1.2" Aggressor huh? Ill have to check that out. I was maybe thinking of going with a 1.25" track but want to run studs and saw in other threads that u have to def change to 9 tooth drivers, just dont want to puncture my hx?

I run a snocross 1.75 in my SRX with no problems just have to remove all HX protectors and no studs, hooks up like it does have studs ;)!
 


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