Viper high idle problem

Did you sync the slides? Are they adjusted at the proper height for idle as per spec? Sometimes you have to clean the pilots a few times before all the crud runs thru the system. Did you clean the filter hats?
 

This is the second time cleaning carbs. I am pretty confident the pilots are good and clean. The filter hats were also cleaned well. I did not check that the carbs were sync'd up. I thought by setting the idle to 1500 when warm then setting the throttle cable to spec this would set slides to proper spec as well. I will try Turing the fuel screws out another 1/4 turn but that will make them 2-1/4 out. Should I go up to the next size pilot?
 
I also had an idle hang until I set master slide to 1.2 mm, adjusted other slides the same and then went from there. It started and idled at 1,300. When I first took them apart, the gap was over 2.5 mm and idled at 1,800 but would hang occasionally at 2,500 - 3,000. Sync slides for 1.2 mm and adjust idle up to 1,500. That should fix the idle hang.
 
It's in the manual. I copied the text for you but pics are in the manual. Have you downloaded the manual yet?

Adjustment steps:
· Turn the throttle stop screw 1 of carburetor
#2 until the specified throttle valve height a is
obtained.
Throttle valve height a:
1.2 mm (0.047 in)
· Adjust the throttle valve height a on carburetor
#1 2 and #3 3 with the adjusting screw 4.
· Move the throttle lever 2 ~ 3 times.
· Make sure that all of the carburetor throttle
valves are at the same height.
3. Install:
· Carburetors
Refer to “CARBURETORS” in CHAPTER 7.
 
I think I am also going to bump up the pilot to 47.5 so I won't need the fuel screw backed so far out. Am I correct in my thinking on that or should I just back the fuel screw out to 2-1/4
 
What kind of pipes we're they? Did you have to gut the airbox with your triple pipes? Or is it all new airbox when you put it back to stock pipe?
 
They were speed werx triples. I think the airbox is still stock it has three pieces right?Top cover, middle baffle type part, and the large section that holds the carb boots.
 
I had same problem and felt like a complete bonehead after I figured it out. Turned out the pressure switch that sits on the bottom of the idle adjustment had worked loose but you couldn't tell by looking at it. It wasn't allowing the carbs to return to an idle position by about a quarter inch.

Easy fix if that is the problem.
 
I don't have it in front if me but I believe it is for the TORS. It had came loose and was stuck about a quarter inch low in its mount. But looked normal from a glance. I only realized it was problem when I saw a little slack in the throttle cable. After rejecting, carb boots, check seals etc etc i fixed it in two minutes reattaching that switch to the screw. What a dummy I was
 
It wasn't a true TORS prob. The switch just worked loose and was keeping the throttle from closing all the way. It was jamming the cam that the throttle cable connects to. You shouldn't need to bypass.
 
I looked into my high idle problem today and I think I could have found the problem. I think my clutch has been modified. the clutch weights don't have rivets in them they have some Allen head screws with two available threaded holes in them. Also if I am not mistaken the stock spring is y-w-y and my spring is solid red. Could this be a reason for my idle issues.
Also my secondary has a black and pink spring. Is this setup going to work ok now that I have put the stock exhaust back on it?
 
Do you have a throttle position sensor on the carb bank? May be a coincidence that that it has failed at the same you are doing the pipe change.
Mine failed, engine idle revs were 2500-3500 rpm, blipping the throttle would sometimes allow the revs to drop down. A tester can be made quite cheaply and a you-tube video shows how to do it.
 
I just got it all back together now so I won't be able to get any pics up. If I do take it apart again ill try to get a few. I did also turn out my air screws another 1/4 turn and turned my idel down to 1500rpm now my idle problem seems to be fixed
 
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