hessracing
Member
Hey guys sold the srx and couldnt stand not having a sled i picked up a 98 vmax 700 xtc in exellent conditon for $800 i dont know much about these machines it has 6000 miles on it and seems to be pretty awesome has anyone had any problems with these or are they pretty much bullett proof like every yamaha I would like to pick up a exhaust can and a black low windshield for it if anyones selling one also
Kenora
New member
$800.... I could cry....that is worth at least $2500 up here.....
hessracing
Member
I'll post pics as soon as i can the guy was the original owner and he was 61 and didnt use it anymore has a new 1.25" rip saw track also
Great deal now do 8dfs with 51/43 and reed notch and spacers she will hall Good luck
YamaChris
New member
Drill the silencer. You can search for he mod on here. It has a nice sound to it and not too loud. It's free!
Nice find, it might be good to check over the drive train and suspension bearings.
Nice find, it might be good to check over the drive train and suspension bearings.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Saw your from upper MI. If your up by Muni, there is a TY ride later this month.
hessracing
Member
the idler bearings all seem to be good along with the jack shaft I've never drilled a scilencer b4 how do you do it just show a drill bit into the bottom of it?? keep me posted on the muni ride I'd love to make it up there if all our snow doesnt go 

indy
New member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Messages
- 29
00sxrjoe said:Great deal now do 8dfs with 51/43 and reed notch and spacers she will hall Good luck
?????????? WTF does this translate in english? I have a 98 vmax 700 xtc dlx. spend all of my time on the 4 stroke side with my dly sled. I know nothing about 2 smokes
No need to cuss
I will try to tell you what I know. i belive the 8dfs are the part number for the arm/weight for the primary clutch. These will have a different profile/weight thanyour originals. Pick up a set and swap them out. The weights/rivits are probably in the tech pages. the 51/43 is the angles of the progessive helix you want to get for your secondary clutch. Check the classifieds for one, bender,hartmann, and a few others make them. Usually you can find one in the classified here on TY. It will change the loading and backshift characteristics of you sled for the better. The reed spacer and the reed notch are modifications you can make to the intake/reed area to allow you machine to breathe easier. Spacers go between the reed cage and the trasfer port. they pull the reeds a little further out of the transfer case and allow more airflow. U can usually find a used set in the classifieds. The notch is in the tech pages. You cut a small divot in the top of the reed cages to allow more air flow again. Do these and read the tech pages on the TY home page and they will perk that machine up.
I will try to tell you what I know. i belive the 8dfs are the part number for the arm/weight for the primary clutch. These will have a different profile/weight thanyour originals. Pick up a set and swap them out. The weights/rivits are probably in the tech pages. the 51/43 is the angles of the progessive helix you want to get for your secondary clutch. Check the classifieds for one, bender,hartmann, and a few others make them. Usually you can find one in the classified here on TY. It will change the loading and backshift characteristics of you sled for the better. The reed spacer and the reed notch are modifications you can make to the intake/reed area to allow you machine to breathe easier. Spacers go between the reed cage and the trasfer port. they pull the reeds a little further out of the transfer case and allow more airflow. U can usually find a used set in the classifieds. The notch is in the tech pages. You cut a small divot in the top of the reed cages to allow more air flow again. Do these and read the tech pages on the TY home page and they will perk that machine up.

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hessracing
Member
Thanks for informing indy maxco! I actually have a hauk x helix i kept from my srx with a red spring I'm going to try and put on it any suggestions on wrap settings? also has Yamachris how do you go about drilling out the scilencer do you take it out and just keep drilling holes in the bottom I'm going to pull it off this weekend and look into it! thanks guys!
FJViper
New member
Go to snowmobile tech. on the homepage. Go to engine and scroll down to SX silencer mod.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
There is a picture of the drill extension that I used for drilling out the can, in post #17 of this thread.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=81722&highlight=drill+extension
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=81722&highlight=drill+extension
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Go down to the TY Rides section on the first page of our 2-stroke section.hessracing said:keep me posted on the muni ride
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89446
YamaChris
New member
hessracing said:Thanks for informing indy maxco! I actually have a hauk x helix i kept from my srx with a red spring I'm going to try and put on it any suggestions on wrap settings? also has Yamachris how do you go about drilling out the scilencer do you take it out and just keep drilling holes in the bottom I'm going to pull it off this weekend and look into it! thanks guys!
You need a hole saw and extension. Drill the first baffle or plate you see when you look straight into the exhaust outlet on the silencer. You can drill up to 2" hole, I went a little smaller. There is a write up in the tech pages.
YamaChris
New member
Looks like couple of bucks already has you pointed in the right direction!
you do not need to put spacers in if you do the reed notch and vice versa
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I think I went w/ a 1 & 3/4 in hole.YamaChris said:You can drill up to 2" hole, I went a little smaller.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
And don't think a hole saw made for wood will work. Never mind how I know.
hessracing
Member
thanks guys i'll have to buy some stuff and i'll get on it!!