cant get srx over 8000 rpm

A

AaenSRX

New member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
22
Age
32
Location
Manitoba, Canada
I have a 98 srx 700. Last year I seem to remember it opening up better. It won't seem to go over 8000 rpm now. I bought the clutch kit used from another srx last year with way more power then mine. Could it not be working properly with my level of hp? I also installed a cobra 1.35 track. Last year. Should I be regearing? Like I said though it all seemed to work fine and rev up that high last year. Carbs are clean. I cleaned the powervalves and set them. No broke cables. I run 91 octain and torco synthetic oil. The sled just doesn't seem right with this missing 500 rpm. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

What should I be gearing it to? I will probably do thay before messing with weights. I dont wana do something I cant undo
 
got to let us know what is in your clutch for components.If it worked for a higher HP sled and yours is less,off course you have to re calibrate it to suite yours.A ported motor will pull more weight then a stock SRX motor.What weights are you using and what is in them for rivets..what springs and what helix do you have on their also.A lot of factors to consider.
 
To check that the powervalves are opening should I just be able the take the cover off the servo and make sure the cables are moving? Also the paper that came with my clutch kit says the srx it was on was ported and bored carbs. Hauck clutch kit 3. Primary black spring. Weights are 47.5 g. And 3.1 g outer and 2.4g inner rivets. Totaling 53.4. Says the rpm should be 8300-8500. The secondary spring is green and set at 3-3. It is a hauck helix but I dont know the angles or anything like that. It also says if rpm is too low I can set my spring in the helix at 6-1. Should I try this?
 
I had the powervalves right out of the sled when I cleaned them. All as one piece attached to the servo and everything. Should I have not noticed if any were pulled through? Or is there a proper way to check for this
 
The power valve would have stayed in the jug if it was pulled through. If the other sled had more power than yours that the clutch came out of you will need to remove weight from the arms to bring your rpm up
 
do the more rear twist and see what it comes up to. I would add also the 98 srx has tall gearing(stock was 23/37) so adding on that big lug track, your likely gonna want to be around a 22/38 gearing set up for aggressive trail riding, that will bring up your rpms as well. You can go to the newer 13 wide gears and chains, the old 98-99 had the heavy 15 wide stuff in them. just use all 3 things and they interchange, chain and sprockets as a set and 13wide will be fine.
 
Just got back from ride with the helix on 2-6. Seemed to make a difference. Held wide open it goes to roughly 7800-8000 but then once it picks up speed I saw up to 8200. I was lucky if I got to 8000 rpm yesterday. I'm thinking should I stick with this and now regear? Would setting it on 6-1 like it says on my Hauck sheet make any more difference? If it helps the sled has aaen pipes, boyesen rad valves, boost bottle, and jetting is 150 main and 50 idle as I was recommend by Hauck.
 
AaenSRX said:
Just got back from ride with the helix on 2-6. Seemed to make a difference. Held wide open it goes to roughly 7800-8000 but then once it picks up speed I saw up to 8200. I was lucky if I got to 8000 rpm yesterday. I'm thinking should I stick with this and now regear? Would setting it on 6-1 like it says on my Hauck sheet make any more difference? If it helps the sled has aaen pipes, boyesen rad valves, boost bottle, and jetting is 150 main and 50 idle as I was recommend by Hauck.
Click to expand...

gearing the sled down will make it accelarate alot faster, get up to speed quicker, it also will make the engine rev more because it reduces the load via the gear reduction in the chaincase.

now as far as the secondary goes, twisting the spring means the motor can stay a little ahead of the clutch as it holds it back a little on the upshift, it will certainly backshift better....however, anytime you change 1 thing it does something differnt somewhere else, so the bad to wrapping the secondary tighter is it loses topspeed more. You dont adjust engine rpm with the secondary , you do it with the primary, Tony and myself are merely trying to get a idea of whats going on and if you added more twist on secondary means the motor needs less weight in the primary to run that paticular clutch set up, however... you can gear down and end up spot on likely.

I always try and set up your sled for the kind of riding your doing 90% of the time so if its trail riding short field running and woods/trails riding gearing it down will make it alot more fun to ride.

if your doing lake racing it would yield a slower topend speed, however you also have a taller lug track on it which will also lower topseed down. I am merely telling you this because to me it sounds like your the trail rider and that would be the better route to go.
 
Your pretty much bang on. I ditch bang and ride fields mostly. Only time I need top speed is when occasionally racing friends. I would rather regear then mess with the clutch right now.
 
SECONDARY TWIST IS A BAND AID. LIKE DON EXPLAINED, IT CAN SLIGHTLY SHOW YA THE WAY TO GO, BUT WHEN RPM IS LOW, GO AFTER PRIMARY AND OR YOUR HELIX. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
So I think for this season I'm just going to regear. Next year start from ground up with a whole new clutch kit. Something more suited to how I ride and my sled. As for gears should I go with the 22/38 that you suggested?
 
How exactly do I remove weight. Take the weights out and grind some off the rivets? And re-weigh them? Sorry if this is a dumb question
 
I just drill the bulk of the rivet on the hammered side..then take it to my press and press the rivet out.If you grind,watch not to touch the weight to many times itself..then you will need new weights in the near future.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top