1 gram =100 rpm
AaenSRX
New member
K. I'm guna pick up a scale this weekend and try this. I'll let you guys know how it works out
throttle response will be alots better ..yep a scale is a friendly tool
bluewho
Active member
AaenSRX said:How exactly do I remove weight. Take the weights out and grind some off the rivets? And re-weigh them? Sorry if this is a dumb question
Its easy to take a small drill bit and drill thru the outer rivots on all 3 weights.If you need more go to the next size bit.Check on your scale and grind if you want them all the same.There is no need to remove the rivot unless it has been drilled to large,have done this for years and never had a problem.
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Honestly, for a fairly newbee, I would suggest you gear it down first then move to the clutch weights. That 98 is geared tall (23/37)and the bigger lugged track again pulls down on the engine, so youd be better off gearing the sled. Once you have that where you like it, then you can fine tune the clutch weight because the rpm will be differnt. From reading your post, 22/38 would be good for you, will make the sled alot more zippy around the trails and more fun in fields and trail riding.
AaenSRX
New member
Did a full day of riding today and sled felt pathetic. Was hardly keeping up to a Polaris 680. At times could only get up to 7500 rpm. Ordered a 22 top gear that I should have in by next weekend. I couldn't afford a bottom gear and chain at the same time. Sure hope dropping one tooth on top sprocket helps cuz now it's starting to get frustrating.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I would say first thing to check is your Powervalves and cables.If it won't go past 7500..PV possible issue.I had a cable break on my SRX a couple weeks back..was around 8000 wot rpm..a dog.Once I changed the line she snaps again to 8500 and quick...
bluewho
Active member
If the sparkplug caps are origanal you should change them out with newer style yamy ones.They have a better rubber boot around them.
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AaenSRX
New member
I'm not sure how how I can check them any more. When I had them out nothing was stuck or broke or even really dirty. Set them. And rode it and checked the cables again and nothing was broken. Should I be disassembling them piece by piece? And checking them. I was getting up to 8200 today. But in deeper snow I could barely get 8000
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
if your clutches are working right,you should still be pulling 8500 in the deeper snow.Just your speed will be down.Maybe your have to much tip weight,try removing some since you think your PV's are good shape.Try one thing at a time and keep notes.You probably could removed a total of 3 grams off the weights. One gram= approx 100 rpm.Can drill out the center on the tip weights to lighten first to see if you gain some more rpm's.
that gear will help for sure ...but u should try to check those weight on a scale ...your off big time ..gear will not solved that rpm...like blue said check to make sure u don't have a cable broke at those power valve ...
AaenSRX
New member
Haven't been on here in a while. Rode two weekends on the 22 top sprocket. My luck both weeks were about +3 out so sled didn't run real great. In the wet snow the sled was terrible. Max was 8000 rpm still. At times from a stand still held wide open across a field it would only be like 7500. Thing seems to be getting worse! And now I'm starting to get sick if it. I'm going to try taking some weight out. My question is should I keep my secondary spring. At wrapped at 2-6 or go back to 3-3?
AaenSRX
New member
Went for a ride tonight and much better. Much colder out. Pushing a new trail it would stay at 8000. And in I'm own trail it would go around 8400 from stand still then hover around 8000. Should I still try taking maybe a gram out of the tip weights? Should I put my spring back at 3-3 first?
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
AaenSRX said:Went for a ride tonight and much better. Much colder out. Pushing a new trail it would stay at 8000. And in I'm own trail it would go around 8400 from stand still then hover around 8000. Should I still try taking maybe a gram out of the tip weights? Should I put my spring back at 3-3 first?
i was about to responmd to your post right before this one and say if its warm out the engine will be down on power unless its rejetted for the warm waeather, so you kinda have to test when its close tothe same temp conditions as before.
so since your getting 8400 when on a good packed trail thats good, when it falls back to 8000 that means its overshifting a bit and the sec clutch is trying to backshift, likely the helix is just a tad too steep on the finish angle.
what is the letter stamped on your hauck helix?
what i would do is put your sec rear spring at 6 and 1, 6 on the helix and 1 in the clutch, this is 70 degrees. go out and ride it, its gonna be a little lower on rpm but this will be the best setting for more topend if it backshifts to your liking... If its too sluggish on the back shift then put it at 80 which is 6 on helix and 2 in the clutch, again check what your rpm is.. make note of your peak rpm.
after this if your at 8000rpm, then you need to take 1 gram from the tip rivet on each arm for a total of 3 grams for all the weights. Just drill into the fat side of the rivet to remove material and check on a gram scale.
your target rpm for a 98 srx is 8350-8400 rpm, not 8500rpm like the later years.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
for the heck of it,try a new belt first and see if anything changes and report back.
AaenSRX
New member
I put a new belt on the beginning of the year. Didn't seem to help then. Have had problems with my belt squealing at idle too but I think I got that fixed. I'm going out riding tomorrow so I'm going to try the secondary spring twist. I'll take note of my rpm and how warm it is outside. Warm or cold though I think I need to take the three grams out of the clutch regardless. I'll report back. It may be a new sled next year but I really want to het this fixed!
AaenSRX
New member
Finally got out riding last night. Weather was -7. Just got a ton of soft snow. Pushing its own trail wide open was 8000 rpm. Which I was happy with. Me and a friend took 1.2 grams off each tip rivet. Brought my weights down from 53.7 to 52.5. Went out and tried it, worked awesome 8400-8500 rpm. I expect this to drop when I go riding this weekend because it's suposed to be warm. Also had a terrible deep snow bog so I added a exhaust deflector. Hopefully it helps. Just wondering if I should keep my secondary warped at 6-2. Or go back to 3-3. And if I'm pulling this kind of rpm it should be safe to say my power valves are ok? I cleaned and set them beginning of the year. No broken cables
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
supposed to be -10 on Sunday,a little better day to see how it works.Hard to test in the warmer sugar like snow.I am at 52.8 grams now and running at 8500,haven't tried it in the new snow yet..but tomorrow should be a good day to ride her.
staggs65
Moderator
I didnt read this whole thread so I dont know if you mentioned how old your springs are but both springs lose tension over time and rpms will drop as the springs wear out.