MrVipers SRX clutch setup

fourbarrel

fourbarrel

VIP Lifetime Member
Joined
May 5, 2003
Messages
2,767
Location
St George,New Brunswick,Canada
All I can say is HANG ON if you decide to go with his SRX setup,this hauls major a$$.I had in a combination of mis matched parts before just to get the sled on the snow til I got a combo to try and it was well worth the investment in a new helix and primary spring.My sled is ported so I suppose that will give it a bit extra too but if your looking for a great relatively low buck setup his is it.

My sled is a trail ported 01 SRX

8DN 20's with 5.5 grams in all holes
w-w-w primary spring
54/46 helix ( I'm using Dalton )
green secondary spring ( currently set at 70* wrap but may need a little more )
 
agree im not ported but i to used his idea with 4.5 rivets in both holes with the www 54/46 dalton and green wrapped at 60. pulls strong. might try 70 wrap but overall very pleased. thanks again mr viper700
 
how does run in trail...I got everything just need to put them on ..does it still give a nice backshift ???what rpm range are u







fourbarrel said:
All I can say is HANG ON if you decide to go with his SRX setup,this hauls major a$$.I had in a combination of mis matched parts before just to get the sled on the snow til I got a combo to try and it was well worth the investment in a new helix and primary spring.My sled is ported so I suppose that will give it a bit extra too but if your looking for a great relatively low buck setup his is it.

My sled is a trail ported 01 SRX

8DN 20's with 5.5 grams in all holes
w-w-w primary spring
54/46 helix ( I'm using Dalton )
green secondary spring ( currently set at 70* wrap but may need a little more )
Click to expand...
 
I am using this for trail riding and it pulls very strong with decent backshift as well.I still have yet to see where I'm at on top end revs so I can't say but I think I'll be pretty close to 84-8500,may have to fine tune a bit.
 
thnx it was to give me a idea about the rpm...I want to be more close to 8700....very appreciated






fourbarrel said:
I am using this for trail riding and it pulls very strong with decent backshift as well.I still have yet to see where I'm at on top end revs so I can't say but I think I'll be pretty close to 84-8500,may have to fine tune a bit.
Click to expand...
 
fourbarrel said:
I am using this for trail riding and it pulls very strong with decent backshift as well.I still have yet to see where I'm at on top end revs so I can't say but I think I'll be pretty close to 84-8500,may have to fine tune a bit.
Click to expand...

dont tune the rpm with the secondary twist, you want only as much tension back there as needed to hang onto the belt so youll get max top speed as well. If your a bit low on topend rpm, you might need to add a spring shim, that w/w/w spring is a good spring but sometimes it needs to be actually about 122kg shift instread of 119kg. The next closest yamaha spring with same start force is the y/w/y stock srx/viper spring it is 128kg.

there is a y/g/y spring that is 40/123kg but your engagement speed will be lower like around 37-3800rpm
 
mrviper700 said:
dont tune the rpm with the secondary twist, you want only as much tension back there as needed to hang onto the belt so youll get max top speed as well. If your a bit low on topend rpm, you might need to add a spring shim, that w/w/w spring is a good spring but sometimes it needs to be actually about 122kg shift instread of 119kg. The next closest yamaha spring with same start force is the y/w/y stock srx/viper spring it is 128kg.

there is a y/g/y spring that is 40/123kg but your engagement speed will be lower like around 37-3800rpm
Click to expand...
what size in thickness is needed for that shim
 
depends on how may rpm your low if its close, likely just a 2 or 3-4mm shim. You can make shims CHEAP from scd 40, 2 inch pvc pipe and cut them to any thickness you want for fine tuning.
 
modsrx said:
look like im not the only one who try the w-w-w ....
Click to expand...

I gave you a specific set up in your own post..you just dont read or follow directions to good! Dont muddy up this guys post with your remarks.
 
sorry thnx again nice set up



mrviper700 said:
I gave you a specific set up in your own post..you just dont read or follow directions to good! Dont muddy up this guys post with your remarks.
Click to expand...
 
thanks mr viper700 i'll make some shims. i have a brand new blue hauck laying around and i see its close with the www, 120 to 119 willl that 1 kg make a difference
 
blevis213 said:
thanks mr viper700 i'll make some shims. i have a brand new blue hauck laying around and i see its close with the www, 120 to 119 willl that 1 kg make a difference
Click to expand...

1kg differance, you likely cant notice it thats really gettin fine tunin...lol ;)!

just try a couple small shims, i just put em in the cover and add till you get it in the sweet spot, 2mm thickness, then a 4mm thickness, 6mm. After you get to 6+mm you have to be carefull as you can shim too much and coil bind some clutch springs, but for what your doing, small shims will let you fine tune it in.
 
Don I still have to see what my revs are on top end and adjust the tip weight one way or the other but as far as shims did I read your reply right?I could use 2" pvc for shims?That would be pretty easy to come by.
 
fourbarrel said:
Don I still have to see what my revs are on top end and adjust the tip weight one way or the other but as far as shims did I read your reply right?I could use 2" pvc for shims?That would be pretty easy to come by.
Click to expand...

yep. some times its alot easier to fine tune the spring just a tad then it is drilling rivets.
Another thing I do is drill the rivets if you need to remove like a half gram or so to be spot on, a drill bit goes right into the rivets, they are soft steel. Gram scales are your friend, you can buy the little pocket models at any office max stroe, they work great and fit in the toolbox too. ;)!
 
I'm using nuts and bolts instead of rivets,I find it easier for me because the dealer here doesn't stock much of any parts especially uncommon ones like tuning rivets.
I use gram scales to weigh my stuff out too,they were ah well ahem surplus from police drug evidence lol.My cousin got them for me,he is on a local city police force.

Would you recommend 60* of wrap instead of 70?I just put everything in Friday night and went for a ride Saturday on a few trails,like I said I have no solid number for my top revs yet but if less wrap would shift better then I'll back it off 10*.

Don what would you estimate the life span of a spring?I have a green Yamaha spring in the secondary of my other sled and it's probably getting on 8-9 years old now.Some years I didn't get many miles on it but it's still been installed and wrapped.How about heelclicker springs?My red one is also getting to be around the same age.Could I go with a Yamaha spring with the heelclickers rather than that super strong red thing that I have to use a home made press to put in?
 
Last edited:
i would recommend 70 if u trail ride ..if u go lower it will backshift slower ....for top speed radar i would drop it ...
 
fourbarrel said:
I'm using nuts and bolts instead of rivets,I find it easier for me because the dealer here doesn't stock much of any parts especially uncommon ones like tuning rivets.
I use gram scales to weigh my stuff out too,they were ah well ahem surplus from police drug evidence lol.My cousin got them for me,he is on a local city police force.

Would you recommend 60* of wrap instead of 70?I just put everything in Friday night and went for a ride Saturday on a few trails,like I said I have no solid number for my top revs yet but if less wrap would shift better then I'll back it off 10*.

(( the rear twist has alot of differnt things that come into ply, the traction available, your rider weight, the track, the snow conditions-wet snow is heavier then powder so it requires more twist from overshifting due to increased load. You actually will have to try it at 60 see how it performs and backshifts for you, then try 70 and see, set it to your persoanl liking. 1 thing to remeber is use only as much twist on the rear clutch as you need to hang onto the belt and not overshift it, anymore just eats up power and topend power the most.))

Don what would you estimate the life span of a spring?I have a green Yamaha spring in the secondary of my other sled and it's probably getting on 8-9 years old now.Some years I didn't get many miles on it but it's still been installed and wrapped.How about heelclicker springs?My red one is also getting to be around the same age.Could I go with a Yamaha spring with the heelclickers rather than that super strong red thing that I have to use a home made press to put in?
Click to expand...

(( some springs will sack out faster then others depends on quality of steel and the amount of time it sets compressed. Heel clcicker springs do take a set and sag and then youll have low rpm and backshift also suffers. I actually remove my primary h/c red spring for the summer , so its not compressed for all that time. You can use a yamaha spring instead of the h/c one but youll need a super stiff spring and then not be able to use much weight at all in the arms.))
 
Mr viper I have a stock 01 srx planning on picking it wanted to know would that clutch specification work good for stock and by chance what you would reccomend for number of picks?
 
I believe that setup was for a stock sled mine just happenes to be ported but it works great.As far as studs if your trail riding 144 down the middle seems to be the general rule of thumb but if you want a bit more bite go with 168.When these sleds first came out dealers were telling people they needed 192 studs and sure they got lots of bite in hard pack and ice but that's a lot of weight too.
 
LongLeggedSRX said:
Mr viper I have a stock 01 srx planning on picking it wanted to know would that clutch specification work good for stock and by chance what you would reccomend for number of picks?
Click to expand...

for a stock engine use 8dn20 weights,4.5 in both holes, w/w/w/spring in front clutch, 54/46 dalton helix with green sec. spring at 60-70.

you should only have to change out 1 rivet in the weights, and 8dn20 weights are stock in the 2000-02 srx's

I agree with the others, 144 studs in the middle is plenty, much more is adding alot more rotating mass to the track. I have ran 168 before and still works pretty decent. 192 or more is way overkill in my opinion for a sled with 140hp.

again noting... that the rear twist depends on the traction available, the rider weight and snow conditions, you really have to find the sweet spot by trying it out on your paticualr sled. backshift is improved with more rear twist but you suffer loos of topseed also, so its a matter of what you like for your riding style.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top