New SRX owner, need a little help/advice:)

Thanks, so its the screw with the spring under it, right in the middle? If that doesnt work, is it likely the carbs not set properly? Plugs look good, brown, no white residue.

It is without a doubt the stock track. I measured the current lugs and it looks to be 3/4 left.

Regarding the secondary sheave, how would one look for that? I looked in and around it and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. What are the symptoms of a malfunctioning secondary clutch and or primary clutch?
 
Pull your belt and remove the secondary to inspect. Watch the order of shims and washer.
I have a 1 inch studded track that tried to eat my heat exchanger no matter how tight I adjusted my track. Always at high speed and especially during deceleration. Your track naturally wants go round as you pour on the speed. It balloons out and gets to your exchanger.
I cut all my studs down with an angle grinder, but there is still alot of extra weight there. My track is so tight that its hard to rotate when the sled isnt running. With 20lbs of weight in the middle of the track, I have an inch of hang from the hyfax to the track.
I'm painting my exchanger before the next ride because I'm not sure if the exchanger getting sanded down or brake rotor noise at high speed.
It does it if the sled gets light at 80-100mph or if I cut the throttle all at once.
It's a LOUD buzzing sound.
 
Heres a question that I didnt see asked. Whats it got for studs? longer/taller they are the more trouble you could get into. X2 on the "ballooning" effect on track. When your on the throttle the top of the track is being pulled into the drive shaft, keeping it tigh near xchanger and the "balloon" (if any) is at the rear of the skid. When you let of throttle drive shaft slows down and causes the track to "balloon" or sort of pile up near x changer. If hyfax were in fact just changed I would tend to think your track may be on the loose side causing alot (if not all excluding high idle) of your issues. If you cant get it to idle down to 16-1700 rpm range I would start looking for it sucking air some wheres. Grab some WD-40,carb cleaner, any sort of aerisol with a straw nozzle. Give a snort around carb boots (reed side/air box side) crank case seals. Any noticeable reproducable change in idle with a snort suggest your test agent is getting sucked in and changing idle.
 
Awesome information, thanks guys. Yeah I am leaning toward the track hitting the protector and possibly the exchanger, since I see grooves on the heat exchanger already, just not sure when they were made. I also do not see any movement in the bearings, I rechecked the secondary bearing and it was the clutch moving a little not the shaft. I do not have a tool that shows PSI for pulling on the track. Is there a poor mans way to check the track tension and to tighten accordingly? What do you suggest the distance should be from track to Hyfax? Original track with the studs currently at 1inch.

Anyone else with 1inch studs have this issue with the heat exchanger itself being hit?
 
So I tried the idle screw in the middle and it did not lower the idle. The idle would go up when I twisted the other way but would not go below 2500. I sprayed some carb cleaner near the intake boots and did not have any change in the RPM. I also noticed the idle hangs up at around 3500-4000rpm and I need to pump the gas to get it to drop down to 2500.

Sorry guys, starting to be a laundry list. :o|

Maybe I should just take this thing in to the shop and have them set the carbs etc..
 
98SRXDAN said:
So I tried the idle screw in the middle and it did not lower the idle. The idle would go up when I twisted the other way but would not go below 2500. I sprayed some carb cleaner near the intake boots and did not have any change in the RPM. I also noticed the idle hangs up at around 3500-4000rpm and I need to pump the gas to get it to drop down to 2500.

Sorry guys, starting to be a laundry list. :o|

Maybe I should just take this thing in to the shop and have them set the carbs etc..
Click to expand...

Make sure you have slack in the throttle cable. When you back screw out past where idle doesnt get any lower is thottle cable tight? Probably to tight and is holding the idle higher. This will also trigger TORS (Throttle OverRide System) DONT TAKE IT TO A SHOP! You will need to know this stuff sooner or later....Fire away with your questions, Save some money and figure it out now.
 
With the engine off, make sure your throttle cable is routed properly and not sitting up out of the holder on the carb end.
Cable should run down your handle bars and through the airbox. There's a slot in the top of the airbox.
Have it on a stand or hung from a strap when your messing with throttle cables and restarting. Dont want to read about it making a new shop door. lol
Has it idled high since you got it or is this a new symptom?
Also, check in the throttle lever and make sure the end is seated in it's slot properly and that you havent got the cables for oil and throttle in the wrong places. Throttle should be the top side of your flipper and oil cable bottom.
Atleast that the way mine is. My cables are routed differently than the service manual shows, but who knows what the previous owners did. It works.
 
Thanks, yes I will exhaust all options before bringing it in. The cable does seem really tight. It seems to be routed correctly but if you pull on it slightly were it comes out of the airbox, it starts to rev. What would cause the idle hang though?

This has done this since I bought it. I am starting to think that the shop they brought it too before I got it, lied to them on what they did. The Hyfax do not look new, there is dirt a grime on the outside of carbs, who would leave that there if they cleaned them? I think the I should attempt to clean the carbs as well and check the set screws, maybe starting there will helps eliminate the possiblities.
 
Give your carbs a good cleaning and set your throttle cable.
Some guys turn their screws on the bottom of the carbs out a little more than spec then use the throttle adjuster to knock their rpms down to about 15-1600 rpms with a warmed up motor.
Try setting your throttle at the adjuster first. Might be just to tight.
Sucks wrenchin when there's riding to be done, but as you dig in and realize how easy it is, you wont be off the snow for long while your working out the bugs.
I've had mine tore down to just tunnel and motor about 4 times this season.
But I like wrenchin. ;)!
 
X2 on post#31. I beleive you need at least 2MM free play in throttle cable at idle (gap your looking at sitting on sled between throttle lever and block it hinges on) With throttle adjusted accurately you should be able to move cable side to side down at carbs because it should be loose. Too tight will trigger TORS and cause idle hang. Read,re-read how to's (maybe print them of and refer to them while cleaning) Its intimidating until you do them a few times, with todays fuel carb cleaning will/should be an all to common thing.
 
there is a lot of good info on this site.What I have done was find postings,articles on Tech section,from manuals and printed it all out and placed in a binder for future reference.Also good to get a manual for your model sled for more precise info.Everything seems difficult the first time,we have all been there..but you will be an expert in no time.
 
Thanks again guys for the info! I am starting on it tomorrow morning, starting with carbs and cables first. I will report back on how she goes.
 
Ok, so I had a buddy of mine come over and help me out a bit, as I have only really worked on lawn mower carbs etc...

The carbs were dirty, not horrible, but dirty. Set the screws at 1 1/2 out. Adjusted cables, replaced a couple bad clamps, and replaced the hyfax. The Hyfax were never changed, they had a 4inch spot towards the front that was completely worn through.

It idles good now, hovers around 1600-1700, no hang at all anymore:)

I took it for a ride and it runs good, not great though, seems now I can only get to about 8200rpm as to 8400-8500 before. I checked the plugs after 30mins of riding and the plugs look white on the top of the metal arch thing. That usually indicates a lean condition right? What did I do? And more importantly what do I do now to fix it?

The vibration is not as bad either, still there, but not nearly as bad. Oh I also noticed that the right side cylinder plug wire shocked me when I touched it near the plug top while running, I suppose that could be causing something too.....
 
Refer to "jetting Hammer style" In the "How to" write up section to "read" your plugs. If you just shut the sled off and pulled the plugs when you seen the white on them its indication you idle circuit is lean (maybe turn the fuel screws out a lil more). To check mid range cruise along 1/2 throttle and hit kill switch, check plugs. To check high/WOT cruise along with throttle pinned, Hit kill switch check plugs. Reading the "wash" on pistons is important to, with the plug out shine flashlight down into cylinder. I wouldnt stress so much about the RPM, Seems this is a 98 right, Sorry I have forgotten. 98-99 max rpm = 8350 ish 00-02 max rpm 8500 ish. So at 8500 you were over revving a little bit. The spark plug shocking you isnt a big deal, it actually should have shocked you. They sell fancy pliers to avoid this or you can use a pair of heavy gloves or a rag if you dont feel the need for a fancy pair of pliers.
 
Thanks, I have read a few threads on how to read the plugs etc....If the whitish color is only on the Ground Strap, do I need to worry? The rest of the plug is brown-black?

I am going to do the check you recommended with the kill switch today.

Also, only one of the spark plug wires shocks me, the other 2 don't. Should I be concerned about that? You were saying they should shock you if touched while running right?
 
run the motor in the dark and see if you can see any arching from that plug.Then you will know it has to be replaced or at least taped up until you get a new one.
 
98SRXDAN said:
Thanks, I have read a few threads on how to read the plugs etc....If the whitish color is only on the Ground Strap, do I need to worry? The rest of the plug is brown-black?

I am going to do the check you recommended with the kill switch today.

Also, only one of the spark plug wires shocks me, the other 2 don't. Should I be concerned about that? You were saying they should shock you if touched while running right?
Click to expand...

X2 on running in the dark/dim and look for an arc jump else where. Shocking or Not shocking you isnt an indication of good or bad. I have ben NAILED by brand new and not by old ones.
 
if there are grooves in your front exchanger thats not good. sounds to me you have a couple of studs torn out but not all the way. rotate you track and look for hangers, studs flopping in the wind but i doubt that your total vibration problem best bet is to drop the skid and go through everything. its just peice of mind.
 
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