Final decision of long tracking my 600

was thinking to go back to all stock idlers and rear wheels then.Then I can sell the oversize idlers 5.35"(6 pcs),rear 7.5"(4 pcs) wheels with all modified spacers as a package later.
 

Blue I bet you can still run the 6 oversized idlers no problem. With the tip up the non matching rear axle wheels size won't come into play as its not touching the snow like a straight Rear rail ext. I am considering this on mine to improve hyfax wear. But I was quite happy with how they wore this season, should get another no problem.
 
Also don't forget about mounting some idlers at the old rear axle location, will help with turning on trail and save your hyfax. Without them you will chew through hyfax at the bend. All Yamaha's xtx's with tip ups are set up that way.
 
well another wasted day.Well I got the skid in ,all 6 bolts in with the rear wheels off..BUT there is no way in Hell to get the stock wheels on,never mind the oversized ones.No matter what I do I am 1/2" out with the wheels thru the rail opening.
Also noticed my transfer rods threads on top are beginning to high,even with a thick white washer in place,I still have 1/2" or more without threads.So now I won't be able to crank the adj nuts down all the way.Why would this even be different then before.Same rods,same rail holes same evrything and this now.

This is beginning to be a nightmare job now..all after noon on this and didn't get to far..... :o| :o|
 
I am going to have to slacken the track and only way is to remove the 4 back skid bolts that were so easy to get into place.This will drop the track and slacken it.Wheels then will go on..BUT will I be able to get them 4 bolts back in.Will be fighting pressure again..even if I get it,man that track will be tight...but probably won't work.
My last resort to to drill out the slots in the rail ext further back and try and make longer adjusters for the track..this can't be happening.Just frustrated like you wouldn't believe now.And I am so sore from working down on the floor..my back needs a rest now and my hands are sore(damn arthritis).. #$%&*

On a good note ..I didn't really blow up and lose my temper as usual.Usually I am throwing stuff by now,but have to watch my blood pressure now..so I try and stay calm..a few stiff drinks tonight is in order tonight..
 
stein700sx said:
Remove the rear axle and wheels then get the front bolts and rear bolts in. Then put the rear axle and wheels back in. Loosen off the transfer rods and the middle bolts should slip right in
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tried this and it won't work..wheels are 1/2" out from lining up.
 
The grapekneehighs will be going down good tonight!Sounds like you have to collapse the suspention some how mabie the front shock bolt or a ratchet strap around the rails and body.



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super1c said:
Also don't forget about mounting some idlers at the old rear axle location, will help with turning on trail and save your hyfax. Without them you will chew through hyfax at the bend. All Yamaha's xtx's with tip ups are set up that way.
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so I can use the rail mounted brackets then and add an idler on each side.You know where my rail ext bolted up with 4 bolts.In between them I had 2 extra holes.That is where I would mount the bracket.Is it also a good idea to put a cross piece(shaft between the rails to give them strength.I have actually one cross rail that one can install 2 idlers also.I would have to cut each end down a little to fit between the new rail ext and bolt thru the side.I could actually run 4 wheels at that area,2 out and 2 inner..just an extra 4 to 5 lb weight... :o|The skid with 144 ext now weights in at 84 lbs dry.I weighted the track,it was 40 lbs.Stock skid here was 70 lbs.\\

xtx pic here
 

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BTV told me the two inner wheels would be overkill so I just stuck with the outers. I did think about that shaft too but never got around to it. I think it would add strength and keep the skid from twisting. I added my boggie mounts using the very bottom hole in the middle where the hyfax part is and the hole above it. Aligns up perfect, just have to dril out to fit stock boggie mounting bolts.
 
yep drive lugs in right spot on track.I was thinking about pulling limiter straps,didn't know if that would do much..but maybe worth a shock.Yes bluewho I sure need to collapse the damn skid somehow.
Then once I get the wheels in and everything done,will run the damn sled on a stand and tie the throttle to full and let that track spin for a few hours to stretch it out..lol
My friggin hand is going numb, carpal tunnel and arthritis in my knuckles is sure not helping in trying to lift and push things into place..I sure can feel the stiffness now here.
 
bluewho said:
The grapekneehighs will be going down good tonight!Sounds like you have to collapse the suspention some how mabie the front shock bolt or a ratchet strap around the rails and body.



I am just pounding back a few Crown Royals already..good stuff..
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super1c said:
BTV told me the two inner wheels would be overkill so I just stuck with the outers. I did think about that shaft too but never got around to it. I think it would add strength and keep the skid from twisting. I added my boggie mounts using the very bottom hole in the middle where the hyfax part is and the hole above it. Aligns up perfect, just have to dril out to fit stock boggie mounting bolts.
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;)! and I still may add a cross piece because if I come off a big jumo and land sideways,that may help stop a twist or bend in the rails.
 
Try a 6/6 under the front of the rails and set the weight of the sled on it,,,,for the rear have your dog sit on it so it sqwats a little.Put your wheels and spacers on a copper pipe from one end than work your axle from the other end and work your axle thru.

Your working off the floor with the stupid lift if you had the sled on its side you would be rideing two days ago!!!!lol


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Got ya now!!!

well finally got her all in.Had to remove the 4 skid bolts,loosen up rods,cranked straps up all the way.It was still tight but slowly got the axle and wheels in.Hooked up rods to 50/50 and suspension feels good as well.Loosen straps to 1 inch of threads showing ans after cranking the rear adjuster nuts to flush on threads..gave track some spins and it actually rotates easily.Without setting track tension yet,track gas about 3/4" sag with no weight pulling down on track.So it all seems to have worked out good after all that thinking and work.Now I can put the idlers back on,add a couple more idlers to where the original rear wheels were and a cross piece between the rail for extra strngth and support.I love the way the rails tip up 6 degrees on the extension..lookx cool.
I set my gearing up with 19/39/This is what the 2001 600mm has for gearing.It also calls for some differnt rivets in the 8dg's and different spring as well with 15.6 rollers.In the secondary it show 43 helix with red spring at 80.Don't know what difference there is between 43 and 47 helix.Wander if I can use my 51/43 helix instead..testing for next season I guess.

Going to go and get more coolant hose to finish off the rear,mix some new coolant and fire her up and run the track a bit.The snow here is really wet now,not sure if I want to try it out now,snow will feel like riding in wet cement,but back field still has 4 feet ..wouldn't want to sink sled into that wet stuff..

 
bluewho said:
Ya your welcome/


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hey blue..that is kinda a neat idea to use a copper pipe and to chaise it,never got to do it,read your post later..but does sound slick.And I really think them Crown Royal shots helped...lol
 
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