That would not be accurate as its using an edge or gen II off the driveshaft. Your skid is from an iq chassis which would have had the large diameter splined hollow shaft.
I measured the 166 out of the 900 and the measures are as follows: Center of driveshaft(only way to measure the iq) to front arm mount is 8 7/8". Front arm mount center to rear arm mount center is 30 3/4". Inside tunnel down to center on the front mount is 5 5/8" and same point on the rear scissor is 7 3/4".
So now back to what sled are you wanting to stuff this in? If its the 99 in your sig line, your going to really want to think this through depending on the track your using as your going to be relocating that front arm almost 7/8" forward of where the 2000 and up geometry wants to be. In other words, if your going 2" track, you just lost that much space between the track and the bulkhead. Not a good thing, period. That equates to track rubbing the bulkhead and the front cooler. So now you need to figure out what to do with what you got. Too bad you didnt get an edge skid, the front hole would have almost been dead nutz. Water under the bridge.
You do have some options and I have a few ideas, but let me measure the iq mount points on the 151. As soon as the snow melts out of the skid I will be able to do that. Ended up riding that over the weekend doing some suspension tuning and shes frozen.
I measured the 166 out of the 900 and the measures are as follows: Center of driveshaft(only way to measure the iq) to front arm mount is 8 7/8". Front arm mount center to rear arm mount center is 30 3/4". Inside tunnel down to center on the front mount is 5 5/8" and same point on the rear scissor is 7 3/4".
So now back to what sled are you wanting to stuff this in? If its the 99 in your sig line, your going to really want to think this through depending on the track your using as your going to be relocating that front arm almost 7/8" forward of where the 2000 and up geometry wants to be. In other words, if your going 2" track, you just lost that much space between the track and the bulkhead. Not a good thing, period. That equates to track rubbing the bulkhead and the front cooler. So now you need to figure out what to do with what you got. Too bad you didnt get an edge skid, the front hole would have almost been dead nutz. Water under the bridge.
You do have some options and I have a few ideas, but let me measure the iq mount points on the 151. As soon as the snow melts out of the skid I will be able to do that. Ended up riding that over the weekend doing some suspension tuning and shes frozen.
chikkenvoicesinmyhed
New member
Yes the new track is 2", the old one seems to be 1.75."
Thanks for the measurements. 5 5/8" down from the tunnel would put the front axle in line with the drive shaft on the yamaha.
I have mounted the rear axle in the mounting brackets for the yamaha skid, in the same location, because it's so close to where I measured the new holes should go (the yamaha rear axle was already dropped 1/2" or so from factory, I'm using the bottom set of holes). That puts the rear axle about 1/4" above and 1/4" forward from the right spot if 8 7/8, 30 3/4 is right.
Thanks for the measurements. 5 5/8" down from the tunnel would put the front axle in line with the drive shaft on the yamaha.
I have mounted the rear axle in the mounting brackets for the yamaha skid, in the same location, because it's so close to where I measured the new holes should go (the yamaha rear axle was already dropped 1/2" or so from factory, I'm using the bottom set of holes). That puts the rear axle about 1/4" above and 1/4" forward from the right spot if 8 7/8, 30 3/4 is right.
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chikkenvoicesinmyhed
New member
;I may remove the front cooler and will also bypass the running board coolers and put a proper one at the back underside of the tunnel, ending 4 or 5" from the back end of the extended tunnel.
If I do need to go lower in the rear mount (esp. to clear the rear cooler that wasn't there before), I found a thread with a good solution, if I can find adapters like the ones pictured. I'm referring to the picture in the 5th post down here:
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru...381-iq-skid-install-into-another-ski-how.html
If I do need to go lower in the rear mount (esp. to clear the rear cooler that wasn't there before), I found a thread with a good solution, if I can find adapters like the ones pictured. I'm referring to the picture in the 5th post down here:
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru...381-iq-skid-install-into-another-ski-how.html
chikkenvoicesinmyhed
New member
I'm not going to remove the front heat exchanger. If the clearance ends up being an issue, going back to stock gearing and installing 7T drivers could be an option.
chikkenvoicesinmyhed
New member
Sorry didn't see your post. 2005 RMK 900 159. So this is an IQ skid as Snowdad mentioned, 15.5" wide. I might just use a strong enough reinforcement plate (3/16" steel) for the front mount, riveted in say 4 places, so that if I decide the front mount bolt hole is in the wrong spot (too hard to get measurements) I will make another plate with different bolt hole but use the same rivet holes holding it to the tunnel. I don't want to be swiss cheesing this old tunnel to death.
The prospect of dealing with rail stab is a bit of a pita too... I don't understand the principle of needed to trim rail tips/ get an anti stab kit if it wasn't necessary on the original sled and I'm imitating the goemetry. But the rail tips are like 2" from the driver it seems so that might be necessary to look into.