roudyroy1
Active member
That one is completly open to the oil, so I would leave it. Do the seals, other 2 bearings and put it together
to change the cover bearing if needed, use a slide puller with the jaws that go on the inside race, a couple slides of the hammer and they pop right out. Like others have said, that one usually is in good shape because its constant bath in oil and no seals to hold junk in it.
super1c
Super Moderator
super1c said:
Harbor freight is a tool store. They sell tools real cheap. They are not the best quality of tools but for the couple times its ever used it will last. Mrvipers idea sounds better then the puller. Know anyone with a slide hammer?
Cooper0809
New member
I've never even heard of a slide hammer...I think I might just leave it in since it does still spin.
roudyroy1
Active member
Leave it, if it does fail(which I don't think it will) its easy to access, just take the cover off, not like you need to pull shafts or anything.
Cooper0809
New member
roudyroy1 said:
Good point, hopefully he doesn't charge me a restocking fee! Lol
Cooper0809
New member
How many teeth are supposed to be on the drive wheel? I've counted nine....
super1c
Super Moderator
Nine tooth drivers are stock and best to stick with. Guys will go to 8 tooth drivers to stuff a bigger track and studs in there.
Cooper0809
New member
super1c said:
Ok, I wasn't sure if it was 8 or 9. Thanks again!
Check your gearing while the chaincase is open. I have found that stock gearing works very well. That is a 23 tooth top gear. Can't remember the bottom...38?
If anyone has changed to a 22 or 24 tooth on top your clutching will be out the lunch. Trust me...from experience.
If anyone has changed to a 22 or 24 tooth on top your clutching will be out the lunch. Trust me...from experience.
If you have a propane torch you can change the outer cover bearing pretty easily.This is what I did when I changed mine,lay the cover face down so that the extruded part where the bearing sits is facing out.Take a propane torch and heat the area around the bearing,it's aluminum so it will expand faster that the steel of the bearing.After a minute or so,depending how hot your torch head is,just tap the cover on a bench or what ever you have and the bearing should pop right out.
Don't get too carried away with the torch because the cover is only aluminum after all,it really shouldn't take all that much heat to expand the metal to allow the bearing to come out.Make sure you let it cool down before putting the new bearing in too and when you tap the cover you don't need to be too aggressive with this either because you don't want to break it.
Don't get too carried away with the torch because the cover is only aluminum after all,it really shouldn't take all that much heat to expand the metal to allow the bearing to come out.Make sure you let it cool down before putting the new bearing in too and when you tap the cover you don't need to be too aggressive with this either because you don't want to break it.
Cooper0809
New member
chris189 said:
Ya Chris the bottom is a 38...
fourbarrel said:
Just did this today...worked great! Thanks for posting.
Cooper0809
New member
Ahhh totally forgot about this thread! Lol anyways all went well with the track change, very easy to do and thank you for everybody's help. Just waiting on limiter straps for the skid...I should be getting them this weekend. Got everything replaced that needed replaced, shocks rebuilt etc. I know It says finger tight for the chaincase chain...but how tight is finger tight really? I can tighten it right up so there is no slack at all...got a feeling that would be too tight and stretch the chain though....not really sure how tight finger tight needs to be...
Do NOT overtighten the chain or it will stress the bearings. If you apply slight pressure with your figure I would say the chain could deflect up to 3/8".
95rxl650
Member
Congrats on the new wee one.
I over tightened my chain and it made a sound like studs taking out the front heat exchanger every time I let off the throttle at high speeds. Just barely snug and all my noise went away.
I over tightened my chain and it made a sound like studs taking out the front heat exchanger every time I let off the throttle at high speeds. Just barely snug and all my noise went away.
Cooper0809
New member
Thanks, was wondering where you went! Lol ya I'm just waiting for the weekend to roll around to get these limiter straps back on and the bender rods on so I can finish this thing up! New baby is doing very well!
95rxl650
Member
Raised 4 wee ones myself. Enjoy them young....they eventually grow into ungrateful teenagers. lol
Pulled the sled in the shop and never looked at it again until recently. Dang thing is still full of mud.
I just moved the front outside idlers forward on the rail to the "wear" spot. See if it helps with drag and slider wear.
Moma bought a Hemi Charger this summer so she's taken over my work area for storage.
Between her and the kids there's never anything left over for me. lol
Pulled the sled in the shop and never looked at it again until recently. Dang thing is still full of mud.
I just moved the front outside idlers forward on the rail to the "wear" spot. See if it helps with drag and slider wear.
Moma bought a Hemi Charger this summer so she's taken over my work area for storage.
Between her and the kids there's never anything left over for me. lol
Cooper0809
New member
Ok, so I'm about to put this skid back in....is there any pattern to getting this thing back in? Front to back then middle bolts? Also, where the middle bolts attach to...I think it's the fra, the one with the 3 settings, do I want those settings towards the bottom or to the top? Thanks guys!
roudyroy1
Active member
i start at the back then do the front then the center, but the way i do it the center one is a pia and takes 2 people