Srx 780

Shafner, Why don't you take the suspension,track anything else of the 99 and put in your 98? You know what your 98 motor, cooling, wire harness are? That,is what I would do? especally since snow is or will be flying soon and sled season in full stride. Save the 99 for parts and look for a motor next summer! just my 2 cents
good luck
 
cylinders could be fixed,welded and replated. the heads have been cut before for more compression. this could be what caused it if it was running lean from the added heat of the increased compression, all depends on what the specs are the heads were set up to.

check out the jetting inthe carbs, pilots, needle settings and mains.
 
Started on the carbs.....
I believe these are the worst I have ever cleaned. Completely gummed up, all kinds of brown gunk in the bowls, pilots are clogged and screens were pretty bad.

Jets are as follows:
Mag- 148.8 Main 45 Pilot
Cen- 150 Main 45 Pilot
Pto- 148.8 Main 45 Pilot

Fuel Screws all at around 1.25 turns.








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Can anyone tell me what kind of puller I need to remove the magnito/CDI? I screwed up and pulled the motor before removing it. Now I have no primary to hold in place....should be interesting.

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I removed my flywheel with a regular 3 claw puller, worked great. You can also use a harmonic balancer pulled, that worked good to o.
 
dont use a 3 jaw puller you can ruin the flywheel pretty easy.

Use a harmonic balancer puller, you can get them at any tool store for about $20-30 bucks will come with a assortment of bolts to fit. when you thread in the 3 bolts into flywheel just thread them in far enought the thickness of the flywheel as if you go too far youll damage the stator windings.

1 tip on getting out the 3 little allen head bolts holding on the recoil cup, use heat on them rapid HOT heat to release the lock tite on them, use mapp gas, propane wont get hot enough, otherwise youll strip them out.:o|1MZR5_AS01.jpg

IF you strip them out................... lay a SHARP cold chisel back at a angle and strike the edge of the round head this will break them loose.

heres a pic of the puller. just bump it with an impact and it will pop the flywheel right off.
 
you can buy mapp gas at any hardware store, your propane torch head fits right on the can, the can will be yellow.

its 2 1/2 times hotter then propane. Its very handy to have on hand.

you can use acetleyne/oxy too but just heat up bolt head quick, get it hot to release the lock tite, not heat up the flywheel/stator behind it.
 
Guess I'm gonna have to get the mapp gas. The 2 bolts/scores on the side of the case where the one motor mount is, will not budge. They're just like the 3 bolts on the magneto.

I semi-stripped one of them, so I might be in a bit of trouble.

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Shafner79 said:
Guess I'm gonna have to get the mapp gas. The 2 bolts/scores on the side of the case where the one motor mount is, will not budge. They're just like the 3 bolts on the magneto.

I semi-stripped one of them, so I might be in a bit of trouble.

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ya, if your referring to the 2 button head bolts for the engine brace/link, yep those need heat too.

if you strip the heads out, the cold chisel layed way back at a angle will get them loose.
 
wouldnt need to be a dealer but any half decent shop who deals in 2 stroke engines can inspect the bearings and put it in a set of 'V" blocks and check the runout.
 
mrviper700 said:
wouldnt need to be a dealer but any half decent shop who deals in 2 stroke engines can inspect the bearings and put it in a set of 'V" blocks and check the runout.
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Well, I called the dealer. They told me that all they do is check the bearings. He also said the only way to check if it's "true" is to put a dial indicator on the end of the crank while it's in the sled??!!

Any tips on what I would find if my bearings are bad? They look OK to me. Have some wear marks on them, but not noisy and seem to spin good.

Crank seals looked good and there was minimal debris in the case.

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so therefore if they dont have a set of v blocks to check the crank in, they are likely not a place in which you want to check for you....lol

just because they are a dealer doesnt mean they know what they are doing, look into some aftermarket shops in your area.
 
mrviper700 said:
so therefore if they dont have a set of v blocks to check the crank in, they are likely not a place in which you want to check for you....lol

just because they are a dealer doesnt mean they know what they are doing, look into some aftermarket shops in your area.
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Will do....never was impressed with them anyways. They really are the only "Yamaha Only" snowmobile dealer around. I also have noticed that they aren't ever excited to deal with older sleds and people who aren't rich.

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