Possible quick carb cleaning on Vmax ER?

dblshock said:
staggs65 is a good egg.

I'm courious Trerrence what is the odometer milage?
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Yes, he seems pretty solid. He gave me a lot of good input on what to look for and check. I'm not sure where he's getting the idea that I'm doing my part.

The milage is high. 18000 Kms. But has 130 psi in all 3. Were u thinking crank seals? No side seems to be richer/leaner than the other. Pretty evening lean in all 3. Mainly on top end. Do u know where would be a good starting point on going up in main jet sizes? I also sprayed carb cleaner around the crank shaft on the clutch side while running. There was no change in idle. I didn't try the mag side tho.

also, the pilot circuit seems good, but I do get the idle hang. This thread has been going for a long time. I'ld love to get to the bottom of it. Thanx.
 
Short of a fuel delivery problem, you've checked everything. So raise your needles and mains, test and report back. You need to do long pulls in each circuit when you test or you will not get accurate readings.

You need to remember we are not there. we can't hear or see what the sled or you are doing so you need to be as descriptive as possible.
 
staggs65 said:
Short of a fuel delivery problem, you've checked everything. So raise your needles and mains, test and report back. You need to do long pulls in each circuit when you test or you will not get accurate readings.

You need to remember we are not there. we can't hear or see what the sled or you are doing so you need to be as descriptive as possible.
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Yes. I'm just not sure on where to start with main jet sizes. I've searched on here and can't find any info about going up in main jet sizes. How about a 140 PTO and 138 for the other two? Or is that not going up enough. The plugs were really white on top end.
 
staggs65 said:
Short of a fuel delivery problem, you've checked everything.
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How would I go about checking the "fuel pump thingy"? I did notice that when taking the carbs off, only a trickle came out. Then , no more was coming out even though there's no fuel shut off. So I didn't even have to block off the lines while the carbs were off. Is this normal?
 
Yes, normal. Question though, Do you have the plastic bowls that snap onto the main jets? If so, are they tight in the groove?
 
FJViper said:
Yes, normal. Question though, Do you have the plastic bowls that snap onto the main jets? If so, are they tight in the groove?
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Yes theyre in there. I think they are tight in the groove. I don't remember. I'm about to take them apart AGAIN, lol. I'll let u know. Are they supposed to be tight in there? The main jets hold them tight, doesn't it? Thanx
 
Hey, would a completely dead battery mess with the spark curve? I would doubt it, but just thought i'ld ask. My headlight also doesn't seem to be as bright as it should be. It's still usable bright though. It's the 2 bulb model.
 
No, they have little tabs that snap into a groove on the jet itself. They are there to hold fuel around the main jet so as not to cause a lean condition. I had to replace mine last season because they were not staying in that groove (really easy to pull off of the jet). As long as they stay in that groove good, they're fine. Make sure your float height is good too while you've got em' apart.
Did you pull those reed spacers out? you should. Get those needles out with the 2.5 allen wrench and check them. Also, unshim that motor.
 
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Terrence R said:
Hey, would a completely dead battery mess with the spark curve? I would doubt it, but just thought i'ld ask. My headlight also doesn't seem to be as bright as it should be. It's still usable bright though. It's the 2 bulb model.
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I do not know for sure what it does but many guys have posted a variety of issues running a factory E start sled with a dead or no battery. From what I have read the factory E start sleds use the battery as the smoothing coil/condenser. Fuel delivery involves the fuel pump "thingy" but is not limited to just the pump. I suspect this is where he was going when he asked a few pages ago about floats, needles and seats and your response was "didn't touch them"......end of discussion. Just because you didn't touch them doesn't they are working as they should.
 
Ok. The plastics bowls stay in the groove and spin freely. Though the centre one was binding up a bit, so I sparyed it with wd and kept spinning it until it would spin nice and freely.
I checked the float height and pulled the float needle out and cleaned everything. All was good there.

I just pulled the first needle up on the mag side. It's set in the second from the top groove. Both washers are under it, but it's still one whole notch leaner than it should be so I'll definitely be putting in the stock setting.

Also, this time, when I pulled the carbs out, I noticed a couple drops of coolant in the centre carb boot. How did that get in there? I didn't notice it right away, so I'm wondering if some bounced out of one of the carb lines and just flung in there ( I hope!).

So, you're saying that it's possible that the dead battery could be effecting the spark curve?
 
FJViper said:
No, they have little tabs that snap into a groove on the jet itself. They are there to hold fuel around the main jet so as not to cause a lean condition. I had to replace mine last season because they were not staying in that groove (really easy to pull off of the jet). As long as they stay in that groove good, they're fine. Make sure your float height is good too while you've got em' apart.
Did you pull those reed spacers out? you should. Get those needles out with the 2.5 allen wrench and check them. Also, unshim that motor.
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I did just take the reed spacers out. Gatta use motoseal to seal up the old gaskets tho, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to run it. I'm also ganna pull those shims out. Thanx.
 
Mine ran fine last year with a dead battery. Why after 10,000 miles is the jetting now considered lean? What changed in the weather?
 
I just pulled the first needle up on the mag side. It's set in the second from the top groove. Both washers are under it, but it's still one whole notch leaner than it should be so I'll definitely be putting in the stock setting.

So, you're saying that it's possible that the dead battery could be effecting the spark curve?[/QUOTE]


Sounds like you may have found the problem, this is what Super1C was talking about. As far as Miles question of after 10,000 miles...Who know when or who moved the needles to leaner position. Previous owner may have done it trying to richen it up and went the wrong way. As far as battery I don't know for sure, I have read a variety of electrical problems (most were viper/venture) Maybe I am lazy but if I am gonna haul that weight around (starter, battery etc) I am gonna turn a key versus pull a rope!
 
Yes. I'm hoping bringing the needles back to stock height will solve it. I might even put them in notch 4 with one washer on top and one on bottom. That would make it 3.5. I'm planning on riding a lot of fast groomed trails, so i'ld like my mid range to be slightly rich rather than slightly lean. That way, it should run a little cooler. I'll just have to stay on the pipe a bit in order to avoid fowling. I hope this solves it. I kinda wish I didn't already pull the reed spacers out. I'ld be able to give it a try to see the improvement. I gatta motoseal the old gaskets tho and wait for them to cure over night. I might go buy a new battery too. U never know, it could be contributing to the problem. Thanx everyone. I'll let u know how it turns out. Fingers crossed!
 
As far as the reed spacers that entirely up to you, I haven't felt a need for them in the red heads I have owned. As far as going to notch 4 in 3.5 position I myself wouldn't, I realize you are trying to solve this with one false swoop and not have to open them up again. Plenty of guys running them in stock position and are fine, Vipers get raised to 3.25 for normal riding and 3.5 for putt putt riding (my girlfriend for example) and the Vipers have a way advanced timing curve in the mid range compared to your red head. Earlier you posted you couldn't really read the mains, Have you figured out what they are yet? Sometimes it takes just the right angle of light and/or a magnifying glass but you need to know for sure what they are.
 
I just got done lifting the needles to 3.5. It should be a noticeable difference considering that the were in position 2. I motosealed the metal reed cage gaskets and installed them. I'll wait until tomorrow to put the carbs and air box back on. I'll also be picking up a battery. Not that I care about electric start. But just to be safe about any electrical issues that could also be related to the problem. I'll keep you's posted.
 
Just wondering if any if u guys know if it's safe to fire up the sled now. I used Motoseal along with the old metal gaskets on the reed boots/cages. It didn't say a cure time on the package and I can't find a straight answer on google. I believe the Motoseal 1 has the same characteristics as the old Yamabond stuff. It's been together for almost 16 hrs, but it is fairly cold out too. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanx.
 
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