staggs65
Moderator
It has an aftermarket belt deflection adjuster on it, not sure how those work but i'm just guessing you don't use the 3 bolts with that.
FJViper
New member
That makes sense Staggs. Maybe it's that adjuster that's the problem though. Not allowing the secondary to open up enough to drop the belt. With my secondary closed with no belt,(bolts in ) there is still a gap at the bottom of the sec. sheaves, his looks like it has no gap at all. hmmmm.....
superfan75
New member
Yeah I think those 3 bolts are missing to allow the belt deflection adjuster to adjust the gap in the secondary. The adjuster does let the secondary close up when the secondary is pulled off. It squeezes the secondary from the helix side and you can adjust your belt with a few turns of the adjuster. They are pretty slick. It came with adjuster, but I checked my brothers Viper and his is set up the same way and his works good so I think its installed right. I didn't have a chance to try it today, but I had an idea when I checked his clutches to compare them to mine. I'm going to put his clutches on my machine, one at a time and that will tell me if its the clutches or if I need to look at something else. I was at my parents today and my father let me borrow a puller if the stator looks like the culprit. I'll figure this out with all the help from this great site 
Last edited:
yammitrip1
Member
I am going to keep following this, i just bought heel clickers for my sled and asked Mr.Viper (which i appreciate his time) countless times on my clutching because ever since i put the darn things in my clutch it bogs. I followed his cake recipe and kept pulling weight out the fly weights and started thinking something else is wrong and i know there is. It bogs out bad, check compression and my power valves all are good.
superfan75
New member
Good luck to you figuring out your problem. I'm going to check everything I can think of till I find it.
superfan75
New member
Well I checked a couple of things tonight while I had a couple of minutes. First I checked the motor mounts and they were okay. I figured if they were bad maybe it would throw the clutches out of whack enough to cause my problems. So then I got my volt meter out and I tested the stator and the temp outside was 35 degrees. I'm not sure how much difference there would be with different temps. I got .6 ohms between the 3 wihte wires, I got 188 ohms between the blue/white and red/white wires, and there wasn't any reading between the white wires and the red/blue white wires which I think is good. When I pulled the engine over I got around 7 volts AC on the three white wires. Maybe tomorrow I can try out my brothers clutches and see what happens.
staggs65
Moderator
Heelclickers will suck the secondary belt in a hurry if you don't have good parts. You cant use old worn out secondary component. just something to consider, if your spring is old change it, also need the right helix not just "what you have"
stators are to be ohmed at 70 degrees or above.get the sled up to operating temp, then check
Your pulser coil is just a tit hair out of spec. Check it again at operating temp. It may change....
yammitrip1
Member
stagg, not to derail this thread, but i have 5 heel 3.3 middle tip 3.3 red secondary at 90 helix 48 35 pioneer and 15.6 mm rollers and also running heel clicker red secondary. gearing 23-38 with 8 tooth drivers 1.86 ratio. Bogs everytime, but on the good note my primary moveable sheave is so warn that it wobbles pretty badly and the sliders are shot too. I am hoping/praying to god that is my problem. Really really just want to get on this thing soon and just enjoy it and it to be perfect lol.
put on a brand new 8dn drive belt.
Did you say that it had aftermarket pipes on it and that you put the stock exhaust back on it? Did you put the stock main jets back in?
superfan75
New member
I did get all the stock jets in it, both the mains and pilot jets and I have my needle at 3.25. I checked the stator again tonight with the engine warmed up good. On the three white wires I got .7 ohms and on the pulser coil I got 223 ohms and I could still get 7 - 9 VAC depending how fast I pulled it over. I was going to try my brothers clutches tonight but its pouring rain out. So MrViper you think my belt might have something to do with it. The belt that's on it is new, but I do have a new Yamaha belt for a spare. This is starting to seem like a puzzle. So far everything I checked seems to be fine.
ya but it doesnt look like a 8dn belt,looks like a aftermarket belt.
superfan75
New member
I'll have to check tomorrow, I think my new spare belt is a 8dn and if it is I'll give it a try. That would be something if that was all that was going on with this thing. I never would've thought it make any difference as long as it was in good shape. If the 8dn cures my problem I'm going to ditch the dayco belt and get another 8dn for a spare. Thanx again MrViper for some more advice I really appreciate it.
staggs65
Moderator
Good eye...as usual.
That is probably going to take care of it, been there done that mistake
superfan75
New member
Well I tried my 8dn 01 belt tonight and I was seeing somewhere around 8500 to 9000 for the short WOT I could pull. Damn was it impressive with the 53/43 helix and green dot spring. It was hard to get a good pull because it was lifting the skis in the air and its not exactly smooth up in my field either and its not very big. I washed my belt first and tried to warm it up good before a WOT run and I tried to smoothly give it the throttle since the belt was new. After a while though I couldn't get the RPM anymore and it wasn't much higher than 8000 again. So when I parked it I checked to see how hot the clutches were and hot and the belt was pretty hot to. I don't know if this means something is off or it was do to the short runs and then turning the sled around for another run, so there was slow and high speed together. I pulled my primary off to check it out closer I checked to see if it had the right size rollers and it seems to, they measured 14.5 mm. There was a little bit of play in the spider assembly. I'm not sure how much is normal. It would sort of bind a little when opening and closing the clutch, but if I put the cover on to stabilize it it seemed to be smooth. It seems nice though I think we're on the right track and real close to having it figured out.
yammitrip1
Member
i am in the process of rebuilding my primary, if this doesnt work i am literally going to burn my sled to the ground lol cause i checked everything!. I had minimal wobble in my spider too, but i guess that the wobble has to be pretty damn minimal for it to operate correctly. I will report back when i get it back together
Did your crankshaft slip out of phase? had that happen to me and it would not rev.
ok, the fact it pulled the 8500-9000rpm for awhile and then dropped leads me to look at the stator as they get weaker with temp. Try it again from cold and if it pulls rpm then goes down after the sled is warmed up, its likely the stator is getting weak in it.
I agree about crankshaft phase lowering rpm but seeing how it ran 8500-9000rpm then dropped rpm as it got warmer leads to the stator output. Every time I have a crank out of phase it runs the same all the time. The biggest draw on the stator is wide open throttle.