VMAX SX 700 Backfire and White Smoke

I see in your video you had the parking brake on while gassin it, that will burn the belt.

Try and put on a new drive belt first, if the old one has hour glass marks or burn marks in it it will vibrate/make thud noises while riding it.
 

mrviper700 said:
Try and put on a new drive belt first, if the old one has hour glass marks or burn marks in it it will vibrate/make thud noises while riding it.
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That's where I would start. Since it makes the noise once your moving.

Here some generic info on clutches http://www.startinglineproducts.com/technical/rzr-clutching.pdf

I would just take off the front cover. 6 bolts there will be some tension from the spring. Also mark the cover before you take it off so you can put back on in the same spot. Then just wiggle stuff around to check for play. Looking for excessive play in the bushings. While the cover is off give it a good wipe done with a wet rag.
 
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mes882 said:
That's where I would start. Since it makes the noise once your moving.

Here some generic info on clutches http://www.startinglineproducts.com/technical/rzr-clutching.pdf

I would just take off the front cover. 6 bolts there will be some tension from the spring. Also mark the cover before you take it off so you can put back on in the same spot. Then just wiggle stuff around to check for play. Looking for excessive play in the bushings. While the cover is off give it a good wipe done with a wet rag.
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Everything looks ok after I took the 6 10mm bolts off the primary. I took the 22mm bolt off the shaft and don't know how to pull clutch out. I think something hanging up in there


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I just put it back together and took it for a ride. While I rode it I looked at the wheels. I'm pretty sure it's the bigger one in the back and it only does it at lower speeds.


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To get the primary clutch off you need a clutch puller. Don't get a cheap one you will regret it. Look something like this
View attachment 56331

Video how to get the belt off I think it kinda a pain the a_ _ I would probably replace it since the sled has been sitting since 07. belt 89L
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pe-MMQHgn_0

part diagrams/part look up. I use it quite bit.

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/#/l/yam/5003bb07f8700212fc83f9f5/1997-vmax-700-sx-vx700sxa-parts

If you don't think it the belt. I would get the track off the ground. Start the sled get the track spinning listen for the noise. I like to use a short rope wrapped around the rear grabs bar. (by rear tail light). Then I wrap a come-along around my rafter and ratchet it up. I also have some 2x4's that I have notched to stick under there to get the track off the ground. The wheels by the track (idler wheels) Have bearings in them could be rusty since I am guessing it has been sitting since 07 from your 1st post. So very possible they could be bad. There are some up towards the top of the track too. If it's them you have to take the rear skid out. Loosen the track covered in the owner manual page 91-94 i think. then 3 bolts on each side. Not bad to take out but some tricks to put back in. here's a post talking about that and getting those upper wheels off and putting the suspension back in.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads
/97228-Advice-removing-wheels-rear-pivot-Arm-sx700r-2001

Some times you can just repack the bearing by pulling the seal off. he shows that in the video too. If the wheels are good you can just replace the bearing. video on how to do that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBv7bsK5zhs

Since the sled has been sitting I would also pull the dip stick and check the chain case oil. Its by the exhaust can and brakes. I would also check the chain tension. Which is covered in the owners manual around page 81. This will make a noise if loose and in my experience its usually when you let off the throttle.
 
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Straightsixmafia said:
Also. Idk how the hell to get this belt off. And the owners manual shows 2 v belts?

I still remember my first time..........standing there like W I T F........Pretty easy actually. Use your hand to push in (it will want to rotate as you go in) on the helix (part with ramp looking deals, just inside the bolt with washers) This opens secondary allowing top of belt to drop down so bottom of belt can be pulled off from the bottom side of secondary or you can pull it up and remove from the top.
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Devilin AblueDress! said:
Straightsixmafia said:
Also. Idk how the hell to get this belt off. And the owners manual shows 2 v belts?

I still remember my first time..........standing there like W I T F........Pretty easy actually. Use your hand to push in (it will want to rotate as you go in) on the helix (part with ramp looking deals, just inside the bolt with washers) This opens secondary allowing top of belt to drop down so bottom of belt can be pulled off from the bottom side of secondary or you can pull it up and remove from the top.
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lol. This is my first time! Thanks guys! Once again! You guys are awesome, the belt was the problem!!! My sled is alive and hauls ***!! Thank you all so much!


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For pulling the clutch try the water trick. All you need is a bolt that will thread into the end of the clutch, on some sleds the bolt that holds the secondary on is the right size. On my phazer it was an 18mm x 1.5 bolt. Length doesn't matter much, 1 1/2" long or so will do.

Now tip the sled on it's side or if the engines out put it on the mag side. Wrap several turns of teflon tape around the end of the bolt, 10 turns will usually do but if it leaks add more. fill the end of the clutch with water and screw in the bolt. The bolt will tighten up and when there's enough pressure the clutch will pop right off. It might freak you out the first time but it's super simple, hydraulic pressure pushes it off with no crank damage, bent pullers or whacking the end of the puller. It's the only way I do it anymore. Took my phazer clutch of quick and easy and it has never been off since new. I know there's some vids on youtube if you want to see it done.
 
wow never seen mine jump like that. Wondering if you fouled a plug? with all the testing and stuff. That is my 1st thought.
 
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The plug on the clutch side was wet. And the middle one and pull start side were dry. I put a new one in where the Wet one was and started it and it sounded normal for about 30 seconds than did it again. How do you ohm check these cap and wires?


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I have never ohm out my plug wires. To check for spark I just pull the plug lay them on the head to ground them. Pull the sled over should be a nice blue color. Also you can unscrew the boot off. Snip a little off the wire and screw it back on. Just like a nut and bolt.

Just wondering if you have the plugs out. Pull the sled over do you have fuel shooting out of the plug hole?? If you do then I would say your float is sticking in the carb. There a small needle under a metal tab that will stick and flood the cylinder with fuel. That needle needs to move freely with the floats and metal tab. Had this happen to me twice last year. After the 2nd time I quit using ethanol fuel in my sled and it has not happened again. The pencil is pointing to the area I am talking about. Its under that metal u shape thing.

View attachment 56340.
 
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Where do you get non ethonal fuel? And I checked my floats and the middle moved freely. But I will full plugs again and try that


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https://vimeo.com/114289151

This is video of my spark. And actually it only seems to do it after it idles for awhile and it sounds like it running on just 1 cylinder if I run it balls to the wall on a straight stretch and then come to a stop. But once I get going it sounds nice and runs great.


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I know these sleds have a few common issues but I don't know very much about them to help you. So i am not going elaborate on any of them. Hopefully it is none of them. hopefully someone who knows will chime in and get you going.

I think the spark looks good.

In Iowa we have both at the gas station just have to pay a little more for the ethanol free. The first time it took me a little bit to figure this one out because everything moved freely excepted that little pin under there. Very easy to over look. It doesn't move much. I thought something really bad happened to my sled and let it sit for week because I did not want to know what was wrong. So this year when I cleaned my carbs I made sure it moved freely.
 
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Yeah I made sure that little pin under the float moves. But maybe I should pull them out and clean them and look them over.
Here in PA. I have yet to see non ethonal gas. Although I never buy gas cause every vehicle I have is diesel. Lol


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https://vimeo.com/114296670

This is a video of what it sounds like after I run it full therottle for a 100 yard run. As soon as I let it idle of a second. It's good to go. And every once and a while It sounds like it has a small backfire when I'm driving slow.


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mes882 said:
I know these sleds have a few common issues but I don't know very much about them to help you. So i am not going elaborate on any of them. Hopefully it is none of them. hopefully someone who knows will chime in and get you going.

I think the spark looks good. I am assuming you have compression and fuel. along with clean carbs.

Have you sprayed starting fluid around the crank seals, head gasket, carb boots and stuff to check for leaks?? Did the tank have any old fuel in it?? If so did you get it all cleaned out?? Water in the fuel/bad gas is the only other thing I can think of.

In Iowa we have both at the gas station just have to pay a little more for the ethanol free. The first time it took me a little bit to figure this one out because everything moved freely excepted that little pin under there. Very easy to over look. It doesn't move much. I thought something really bad happened to my sled and let it sit for week because I did not want to know what was wrong. So this year when I cleaned my carbs I made sure it moved freely.
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That's okay. You've been a very very big help so far!! And no I have not tried that yet. I will try that tmrw!!


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