mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Thats the tors switch kicking, its the 2 wires that come off the center of the carb rack, you have the throttle cable adjusted too tight, you need to loosen up the adjuster and give it some slack.
A couple of bucks
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Yep..And by non contact thermostat? Would an infrared temp gun work?
Straightsixmafia
New member
Thats the tors switch kicking, its the 2 wires that come off the center of the carb rack, you have the throttle cable adjusted too tight, you need to loosen up the adjuster and give it some slack.
If I back it off any more it will idle really low compared to my buddy's VMAX 600. Is there another way to adjust my idle besides tightening the cable?
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
not the idle screw the cable adjuster that threads into the top of the bracket you have the cable set too tight and its making the throttle over ride switch kick in. loosen up the adjuster, screw it in further into the metal bracket, not the idle speed screw ,the cable adjsuter.
roudyroy1
Active member
That's torrs! Throttle override system. Your throttle cable is to tight, it needs some slack to work. Try loosening it. You can bypass the system but it's not recommended, by the carbs you will see a switch on then idle stop, fallow the wires and plug the ones coming from the main harness into each other, that will bypass the system for testing.https://vimeo.com/114296670
This is a video of what it sounds like after I run it full therottle for a 100 yard run. As soon as I let it idle of a second. It's good to go. And every once and a while It sounds like it has a small backfire when I'm driving slow.
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https://vimeo.com/114280069
Now it doesn't start 1 pull anymore. Now it's like 6. And it sounds like a mean cam... Any ideas?
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I this video it just idling correct? Look at how the motor is jumping maybe that's your camcorder skills or I am missing something.
In your last video I agree with them. tors.
Throttle cable to tight t.o.r.s. kicks in and limits the rpms. U should have 2.5 mm of free play in your throttle cable. link how to clean your tors. Just in case
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/TechIndex/Engine.html
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
check the engine mounts for broken bolt or missing.Motor is shaking to much.
Straightsixmafia
New member
not the idle screw the cable adjuster that threads into the top of the bracket you have the cable set too tight and its making the throttle over ride switch kick in. loosen up the adjuster, screw it in further into the metal bracket, not the idle speed screw ,the cable adjsuter.
Yeah I know the throttle cable. I was using that to set my idle. Haha. I'll look for idle screw to set my idle.
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Straightsixmafia
New member
I this video it just idling correct? Look at how the motor is jumping maybe that's your camcorder skills or I am missing something.
In your last video I agree with them. tors.
Throttle cable...t.o.r.s. kicks in at 3k rpms. U should have 2.5 mm of freeplay in your throttle cable. link how to clean your tors
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/TechIndex/Engine.html
Nope. That's my motor jumping! It almost sounds like the motor is not firing in consistent timing. It almost sounds like all cylinders are firing at once and makes motor jump. But I'll look for broken mount and stuff.
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
the reason the engine is jumping is because the tors system is activating, its doing what its supposed to do. When activated it limits the rpm of the engine by cutting the spark, a rpm limiter if you want to call it that, and it sounds like it misfires because it does,
Loosen up the jam nut(10mm) on the adjuster, and screw the adjuster down into the bracket you need alot of slack. If you go and look up at your throttle lever and move it slowly youll see it will move towards the inside as it moves on the pivot, will look like its worn out as it moves on the pivot . It has a switch in the throttle block and a switch down on the carb rack. These two switchs work in conjunction with each other.
to set the idle speed you use the screw on top of the carb rack turn it down to raise the idle speed once you have loosened up the cable adjuster, set it to about 1500-1800rpm when warm.
you dont need to take anything else apart on the sled, its a simple couple of adjustments is all, theres nothing wrong with the sled. With all due respect intended, I know everyone is just trying to help you but you have been tearing things down and stuff for no real reason other then guesses and misdiagnosis. The motor mounts are fine, its the tors adjustment is all thats wrong now that you have cleaned the carbs and changed the belt.
Loosen up the jam nut(10mm) on the adjuster, and screw the adjuster down into the bracket you need alot of slack. If you go and look up at your throttle lever and move it slowly youll see it will move towards the inside as it moves on the pivot, will look like its worn out as it moves on the pivot . It has a switch in the throttle block and a switch down on the carb rack. These two switchs work in conjunction with each other.
to set the idle speed you use the screw on top of the carb rack turn it down to raise the idle speed once you have loosened up the cable adjuster, set it to about 1500-1800rpm when warm.
you dont need to take anything else apart on the sled, its a simple couple of adjustments is all, theres nothing wrong with the sled. With all due respect intended, I know everyone is just trying to help you but you have been tearing things down and stuff for no real reason other then guesses and misdiagnosis. The motor mounts are fine, its the tors adjustment is all thats wrong now that you have cleaned the carbs and changed the belt.
Straightsixmafia
New member
the reason the engine is jumping is because the tors system is activating, its doing what its supposed to do. When activated it limits the rpm of the engine by cutting the spark, a rpm limiter if you want to call it that, and it sounds like it misfires because it does,
Loosen up the jam nut(10mm) on the adjuster, and screw the adjuster down into the bracket you need alot of slack. If you go and look up at your throttle lever and move it slowly youll see it will move towards the inside as it moves on the pivot, will look like its worn out as it moves on the pivot . It has a switch in the throttle block and a switch down on the carb rack. These two switchs work in conjunction with each other.
to set the idle speed you use the screw on top of the carb rack turn it down to raise the idle speed once you have loosened up the cable adjuster, set it to about 1500-1800rpm when warm.
you dont need to take anything else apart on the sled, its a simple couple of adjustments is all, theres nothing wrong with the sled. With all due respect intended, I know everyone is just trying to help you but you have been tearing things down and stuff for no real reason other then guesses and misdiagnosis. The motor mounts are fine, its the tors adjustment is all thats wrong now that you have cleaned the carbs and changed the belt.
Awesome man! Thanks so much! And yeah but that's the best way to learn! Taring shit apart! But yes. I really have no experience with these what so ever.. But the only way to get experience is to dig deeper and hands on. The carbs DEFINITELY needed the cleaning... And my dumb *** created the problem of the belt by leaving the e brake on. Lol.
How important is this tors switch? What is the reasoning for its existence here and how bad of an idea is it to just do away with it? I am an all mechanical type guy. I hate electrical problems and I like having the least amount of electrical sensors and safety's as possible. Just to eliminate future headaches and trouble shooting!
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
This is why you adjust it properly and it will give you no trouble, bypass it and well, youll see. look at this thread.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/79204-Reason-not-to-disable-tors/page2?highlight=tors
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/79204-Reason-not-to-disable-tors/page2?highlight=tors
the reason the engine is jumping is because the tors system is activating, its doing what its supposed to do. When activated it limits the rpm of the engine by cutting the spark, a rpm limiter if you want to call it that, and it sounds like it misfires because it does,
Mr viper I Just want to double check this your saying the tors are activated at an idle as well?? From start up and limits the rpms to say 3000 ??
I must have had a misunderstanding from I have read on here about them. and where they activate. So I apologize. I guess I thought it would idle fine just not rev past 3000 rpms. So please get me straightened out on them.
The idle screw is right there by the throttle cable its a flat head with a spring under it. you can usually turn it with your fingures.
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Mr viper I Just want to double check this your saying the tors are activated at an idle as well?? From start up and limits the rpms to say 3000 ??
I must have had a misunderstanding from I have read on here about them. and where they activate. So I apologize. I guess I thought it would idle fine just not rev past 3000 rpms. So please get me straightened out on them.
The idle screw is right there by the throttle cable its a flat head with a spring under it. you can usually turn it with your fingures.
sure its activated at "HIS" idle speed because he adjusted the throttle cable to set the idle speed which opens the circuit, thats why its sitting there going bing,bing,bing and flexing the mounts because its misfiring the engine. the tors switch is activated because its not touching the plunger on the carb rack because the throttle cable is/was way too tight holding the switch open.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
also no need to apologize nobody is hurt or damaged, just trying to give him the right information. Everyone here wants to solve problems thats whats great about this forum, somene is always willing to help. You know the saying a dog is never to old to learn new tricks, well same here i learn all the time from people.
Sure there is if I understood the tors correctly a page of this post could have been avoided. My bad. I reseached it once the first time I cleaned my carbs I had the cable to tight. Guess I read some bad info. The other thing I dont understand is why he was able to run it around the yard a little bit and a 100 yards full throttle before the tors started working?? Now I am just curious. Would it because the sled has been sitting for a while and just took a little bit for the contacts to work again/clean them self. Something like that.
roudyroy1
Active member
Sure there is if I understood the tors correctly a page of this post could have been avoided. My bad. I reseached it once the first time I cleaned my carbs I had the cable to tight. Guess I read some bad info. The other thing I dont understand is why he was able to run it around the yard a little bit and a 100 yards full throttle before the tors started working?? Now I am just curious. Would it because the sled has been sitting for a while and just took a little bit for the contacts to work again/clean them self. Something like that.
Maybe, those micro switches can stick and do other funny things.
Straightsixmafia
New member
Hey guys. Sorry I didn't reply in awhile to let you know how it went. I followed everyone's advice and suggestions and I got her running like new! After completely taring down and cleaning the carbs, putting a new belt on, and adjusted my throttle cable, she purred like it just rolled off the assembly line. I rode all weekend and put 212 miles on!! It was a flawless ride! (Besides my buddy that ran his sled down the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon ; yes he's okay)
All in all, very glad I found this forum! Thank you all for the help!! I'm sure I'll be needing you guys again soon for help!
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All in all, very glad I found this forum! Thank you all for the help!! I'm sure I'll be needing you guys again soon for help!
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sleddineinar
VIP Member
That's awesome! Glad to hear you were able to get a ride in. It all washed away today here.
A couple of bucks
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Don't be a stranger now !