Fuel should not be dribbling out of the lines once you have pulled it over a few times. It should be pretty much shooting out!!! Before condemning the pump however, make sure the line in the tank is good, and the filter on the end attached. That black debris in the pump could very well be a rubber fuel line breaking down on the inside due to ethanol.
pinboy122
New member
Mes, yes I've tried new plugs and moved them around as well.
Dwarf, that was my thought exactly about the ethanol eating the fuel hose. The line and filter inside the tank are brand new so all that's left is to change the hose that comes from the tank over the air box and back down to the pump. Then all the lines will be new. I'm also going to run through the carbs again because there on the bench anyway and if there's crud in the pump it could also be in be carbs. I wish I woulve aquired a pump during the week.
Dwarf, that was my thought exactly about the ethanol eating the fuel hose. The line and filter inside the tank are brand new so all that's left is to change the hose that comes from the tank over the air box and back down to the pump. Then all the lines will be new. I'm also going to run through the carbs again because there on the bench anyway and if there's crud in the pump it could also be in be carbs. I wish I woulve aquired a pump during the week.
Have you got this figured out yet I am curious.
With my fuel lines unhooked from the carbs. I have no fuel coming out of the line when I pull it over. I thought it was weird but the sleds run good. The fuel bowls on the carbs have fuel in them
Just wondering what prevents this sled from flooding it self out when you trailer them. My previous sleds had a fuel shut off these don't. I guess I figured they had some sort of check valve in them. Looking at the parts diagram I don't see one.
Does it run better with the fuel cap off?? Vent hose plugged up on the tank??
I am sure you have checked this but just another thought Are you using solid top or the threaded top plugs? I have had problems with the threaded top plugs.
With my fuel lines unhooked from the carbs. I have no fuel coming out of the line when I pull it over. I thought it was weird but the sleds run good. The fuel bowls on the carbs have fuel in them
Just wondering what prevents this sled from flooding it self out when you trailer them. My previous sleds had a fuel shut off these don't. I guess I figured they had some sort of check valve in them. Looking at the parts diagram I don't see one.
Does it run better with the fuel cap off?? Vent hose plugged up on the tank??
I am sure you have checked this but just another thought Are you using solid top or the threaded top plugs? I have had problems with the threaded top plugs.
Last edited:
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
My SRX won't pump fuel while tugging at low fuel levels like my Polaris' would. I've read higher fuel tank level has a possitive affect.
If the suspect cylinder stays put and wakes up under load/at higher rpms and the pilot is clear - I'd check compression, reeds or for an air leak.
If the suspect cylinder stays put and wakes up under load/at higher rpms and the pilot is clear - I'd check compression, reeds or for an air leak.
pinboy122
New member
Can anyone get me the stator specs? I've looked all over and can't find them in black and white. I did find a link but it's dead. Thanks,Al
pinboy122
New member
To take it 1 step further,
I test the pick up coil good at 204
I test the Brn to blk/red to 431
I get nothing when I check the brown to brown/red. I also get nothing on these wires when I check against my spare 1 year old stator. So does this tell me I have 2 bad stators?
I test the pick up coil good at 204
I test the Brn to blk/red to 431
I get nothing when I check the brown to brown/red. I also get nothing on these wires when I check against my spare 1 year old stator. So does this tell me I have 2 bad stators?
roudyroy1
Active member
To take it 1 step further,
I test the pick up coil good at 204
I test the Brn to blk/red to 431
I get nothing when I check the brown to brown/red. I also get nothing on these wires when I check against my spare 1 year old stator. So does this tell me I have 2 bad stators?
those specs are all within tolerance. you should have 78-94 on br - br/r.
pinboy122
New member
Ok, on both stators I cant get a reading other than open on the b-br. What is the b-br job??? Other than piss me off??lol
jbwi102
New member
Did you get this fixed? I also have a 97 sx700 that is missing/backfiring down low but screams up high. Just went thru carbs today, comp at 130/132 on all three. Runs great when cold, and runs too good to be a seal or air leak, idles too nice to be a chipped reed valve. plug caps all at 5k. starts acting up 2 mins into running, going to get a cdi and stator tomorrow, fingers crossed!
It drops random cylinders only when hot at idle or 1/4throttle, got me too
only other thing that comes to mind is a worn thru wire
It drops random cylinders only when hot at idle or 1/4throttle, got me too
only other thing that comes to mind is a worn thru wire
The br is brown and the br-r is brown with a red stripe
pinboy122
New member
Jbwi, I havnt fixed it yet. This project got put on the back burner for a bit. I suspect it's the stator because I got an open reading on the brow to brown red. what's wierd about that is that I have 2 stators with the same thing. I found that my hand grips were worn badly and I think they may have been shorting to the handle bars. Could that cause a stator to go bad?
roudyroy1
Active member
if this ends up being anything in the stator assembly...I SWEAR TO GOD IM GOING TO SNAP!! ive been preaching this since page 2
please figure this out soon for my sake ahahaha
please figure this out soon for my sake ahahaha
jbwi102
New member
The specs given to test the stator were incorrect. Its not brown/red to brown its brown/red to black so...
pickup is white/green to white/red ~200
brown TO black/red ~420
brown/red TO black ~100
I have two stators, both tested good, i even let them bake on a pellet stove and tested again hot, still within range, here is what fixed mine
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/99504-97-sx700-backfiring-popping-plague
pickup is white/green to white/red ~200
brown TO black/red ~420
brown/red TO black ~100
I have two stators, both tested good, i even let them bake on a pellet stove and tested again hot, still within range, here is what fixed mine
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/99504-97-sx700-backfiring-popping-plague
pinboy122
New member
Just my luck. The crank is out of phase. It's nowhere near as bad as my other engine which is why I didn't catch it the first time I checked, but enough to cause problems. Not sure which direction im going to head with it.
THAT is the first time I have EVER heard of that on a Yamaha
pinboy122
New member
Yeah well I'm lucky enough to catch it twice. It really sucks because I can't sell the pos the way it is(in good conscience) and I really don't want to spend the coin to fix it.
snomofo
VIP Lifetime Member
Just my luck. The crank is out of phase. It's nowhere near as bad as my other engine which is why I didn't catch it the first time I checked, but enough to cause problems. Not sure which direction im going to head with it.
Well, you found a root-cause no one mentioned... unfortunately, a pricey one.
A member just posted a '97 redhead lower end for $300.
Last edited:
jbwi102
New member
You weren't holding the clutch side while loosening the flywheel nut by chance were you?
pinboy122
New member
No, I havnt removed the flywheel or clutch on this engine but I can see where that could possibly be an issue.
jbwi102
New member
Sorry i thought you removed the stator and replaced it. Sometimes people wedge the clutch side in order to loosen the mag side nut and it throws the crank out of phase, or it s possible as I understand...