TORS/kill switch/wire rub?

E

evel48

New member
Joined
Jan 27, 2015
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9
Location
Maine
Just purchased a 2001 SX700R a month ago. Tested and looked good with only 1700 miles on it. Only thing I noticed was kill switch did not work...thought no big deal to replace. Joined this forum and learned a lot more than I intended. Found my TORS wasn't connected. After doing so, sled will not go above 3000 rpm. Kill switch still didn't work. Started following forum instructions (thanks guys!). Cleaned carbs completely, cleaned TORS contacts, found pilot/fuel screws were 1-1/2, 1-3/4 and 2 turns out. Manual says 1-1/2, but read somewhere here that 1-3/4 suggested. So, all are now 1-3/4. Adjusted idle speed to 1600 rpm warm idle. I made sure the throttle cable had extra slack to rule out throttle cable being too tight. I purchased a throttle block assembly and that didn't fix anything either. Read about wire rub being a common issue. Pulled wire under engine (with string & thanks again!), inspected and even took off tape/inspected again. Didn't find any signs of wire rub. Not finding any around steering column or left foot area. Note: Previous owner was proud of four strips of LED lights on sled, connected at blue wire at steering column. I took those out to eliminate unknowns. Found a section of wire on hood wire harness that has outside covering melted and black covering melted to the internal wiring. Is it possible those lights overheated the wiring? Could I test sled with hood wiring harness disconnected and see if TORS and kill switch work correctly?

Suggestions please. I am no expert in electrical, but willing to try and learn anything.
 
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If its only letting you go to 3000 rpms still sounds like torts. Have you tried unplugging the wires at the carbs and plug them back into each other? This will bypass the Torr's for testing purposes. If sled runs good then you know its the Torr's. Sounds like you have done a good job so far.
 
Yes, if I bypass TORS and plug cables back into each other, the sled runs and goes above 3000 rpm. It does seem to affect the idle speed while bypassed. So, if I have tried another throttle block and cleaned the TORS contacts already, you would say replacing the TORS/carb switch is next? Would the kill switch issue be related to my TORS problem or does it seem I have two unrelated problems?
 
Thanks for the input super1c. I just ordered a new tors/carb switch with the dealer. I am hoping that fixes the TORS issue. I purchased another throttle block off EBay and the kill switch didn't work with either. Possibly a bad ground? Plan to dig into the steering column area further and look for wire rub.
 
The kill switch is just a simple on off switch. Just test it with a ohm meeter to check resistance. Then you can eliminate the switch and cont to follow wires to cdi.
 
I have never owned a yamaha that the TORS worked on. I just disable it and ride. I Don't even think k about it. Just wondering, why do you need it working? Not trying to stop ya, just wondering.
 
s10mike said:
I have never owned a yamaha that the TORS worked on. I just disable it and ride. I Don't even think k about it. Just wondering, why do you need it working? Not trying to stop ya, just wondering.
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here you go this is what can happen when you bypass it.its very simple to have working, i dont understand why guys cant run the throttle cable loose and have it working, the sled will still get wide open throttle even with the adjuster all the way down.

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/79204-Reason-not-to-disable-tors/page2?highlight=tors
 
Okay, bought a volt/ohm meter and learning to use it. Set to ohm and tested kill switch. With switch out I get a '1' and with switch in I get a '0'. Does continuity mean circuit is open or closed? Tested the throttle switch. When throttle is operated I get a '1' and when not operated I get a '0'. Tested carb switch and get a '1' when the throttle is operated and a '0' when not operated. Do these readings sound right to you? Nice to learn new things.

While waiting for the new carb switch, I checked for bare spots throughout the foot areas and the steering column. Not finding any. Note: had already pulled main wire under engine and found nothing bare. In earlier post, mentioned a melted section on the hood harness near bottom. Peeled off more tape at the top of the harness right before the connections. The black, yellow, green, and blue wires have all been spliced. Each of these wires feed up through the harness as a single wire and splice off into two wires (feeding the tach, speedo, and lights). Does not look factory to me. Could this be the source of all my issues?
 
evel48 said:
Okay, bought a volt/ohm meter and learning to use it. Set to ohm and tested kill switch. With switch out I get a '1' and with switch in I get a '0'. Does continuity mean circuit is open or closed? Tested the throttle switch. When throttle is operated I get a '1' and when not operated I get a '0'. Tested carb switch and get a '1' when the throttle is operated and a '0' when not operated. Do these readings sound right to you? Nice to learn new things.

While waiting for the new carb switch, I checked for bare spots throughout the foot areas and the steering column. Not finding any. Note: had already pulled main wire under engine and found nothing bare. In earlier post, mentioned a melted section on the hood harness near bottom. Peeled off more tape at the top of the harness right before the connections. The black, yellow, green, and blue wires have all been spliced. Each of these wires feed up through the harness as a single wire and splice off into two wires (feeding the tach, speedo, and lights). Does not look factory to me. Could this be the source of all my issues?
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Sounds like the switches are working. I'd guess it's cable slack still. Is the cable itself sticky or fraid anywhere?

With the throttle closed, loosen the cable (turn the cable into the bracket) so you can flop the inner cable back and forth a good 1/4", tighten the jamb nut. If you have to make an adjustment to the throttle stop screw (you're at 1600 now so no worries), turning up the idle will add slack and turning it down will reduce it.

A closed circuit has continuity and an open one doesn't. A short circuit has continuity to something it shouldn't.

Pics of the hood harness would be helpful.

I'm assuming the 1 is open and 0 is closed. Does your meter have a continuity beeper. Look for a speaker icon on the dial.

Turn it off, then to the speaker and ohms. touch the probes and get a beep - closed circuit/continuity
 
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Sounds like you need to increase the range on your meeter to be more accurate but the goal is to get it to say 0. Now I suck at electrical I'm just a I know it should do this when I do this kinda guy. Hopefully one if the more electrical guys will chime in but sounds like your on the right path. But if you get it to say 0 the circuit should be good.
 
Hope to tape up all the wires I have exposed and put the sled back together tonight. The cable is not sticky or frayed in any spots and is in good condition. As soon as it is together, I will try adding even more slack to the throttle cable. Thought I had an excessive amount already, but doesn't hurt to try. Thanks snomofo.
 
Super1c, I had the meter set at 20K ohm, which I thought would provide enough range. Like I said, first time using a meter so it is a learning process. I suck at electrical as well, but willing to learn. Going to try snomofo's suggestion of adding even more slack to the throttle cable. I may have access to a replacement hood harness. This addresses the TORS issue, but I still have the kill switch to fix. Now that I have used the meter and the kill switch tests good on both throttle blocks I own, do I follow the wires to the CDI next and test the CDI somehow?
 
Hi s10mike. The problem is that I don't have TORS and I don't have a kill switch either. Others haven't pointed out it is dangerous enough not to have TORS, but not having a kill switch to hit either is asking for trouble. I want one or the other to work, but preferably both.
 
The best way to set cable slack is like mr viper has said many times. I just screw the adjuster all the way down (most slack), then put it at full throttle. Then adjust so the carb so it is at full throttle. Most times i hardly have to adjust the screw and you never notice the slack in the cable.
 
evel48 said:
Super1c, I had the meter set at 20K ohm, which I thought would provide enough range. Like I said, first time using a meter so it is a learning process. I suck at electrical as well, but willing to learn. Going to try snomofo's suggestion of adding even more slack to the throttle cable. I may have access to a replacement hood harness. This addresses the TORS issue, but I still have the kill switch to fix. Now that I have used the meter and the kill switch tests good on both throttle blocks I own, do I follow the wires to the CDI next and test the CDI somehow?
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Use a smaller setting like 100 ohms or as mentioned continuity check that will beep if the circuits complete. You're measuring almost zero ohms so use the smallest setting.
 
super1c said:
The best way to set cable slack is like mr viper has said many times. I just screw the adjuster all the way down (most slack), then put it at full throttle. Then adjust so the carb so it is at full throttle. Most times i hardly have to adjust the screw and you never notice the slack in the cable.
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With the air box is off, agreed.

The procedure in the shop manual, in it's order, gets you the same results - with the air box in place.
 
I think the problem has been solved !!!! Untaped all the lines at steering column and going toward the CDI. I had tested the throttle switch and kill switch on both throttle blocks I own and they tested good. I used the ohm meter and tested for continuity on the ground wire connecting to the throttle block and down the steering column. My ground was bad. Found the broken ground wire. So my TORS (throttle switch) and kill switch issue were related. They share the same ground. After soldering the line and taping it back up, I am very happy to say that both the kill switch and TORS work!!! It is going to take a while to tape everything back up and assemble the sled and give it a proper test ride. Also found three other lines that were in poor shape and needed solder as well. Thank you everybody for your help.
 
Where did you find the bad ground? I couldn't even find where the main ground was supposed to be. I've been chasing this exact same issue lately...my only problem is my sled is up north now and I can only work on it the weekends I'm up.
 
Hi j5ferry1. I sent one message but I don't think it saved, so trying again. The throttle block has a connector with three wires in it. The black is ground. The connector on the other side has a chocolate or brown line which matches up to the black ground. This chocolate line was broken off about 5" in. You have to peal back tape and it is in a hard spot to get to. I had to take off the bars and pulled on the plastic while a friend soldered the lines. Pain in the butt.
 
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