2000 sxr clutching, and gearing

i found the y/w/y spring, and ordered a 51 43 helix,hoping it comes in before the weekend so we can try it out.i also found a bender helix , its a 45-41. is that something that would work well on my 700 sxr?
 

went out for a rip tonight,sled rips,my bl has a sx700 with power inc. pipes, tried his, and mine is right on with his.id like to try the pipes on mine to see what it can do.we swapped sleds,and he loves the handling mine has,and also the pull, i would suggest anyone who has a 700 tripple to try the 89l-17605 weights , and 2.6 rivet. just my opinion for a rider who loves the best of both worlds.i may not be the fastest,but good luck trying to pass me on the trail !!!!
 
so, we went to the pond today,my buddies 03sxr 600 with the 89a-10 weights 4.5 rivet in the tip,we put the ywy spring in the primary,and that sled hooks, and pulls.he gets everyone off the line!!!have not got the helix to try yet, its in route.my sled 00 sxr 700, changed the helix to a 45/41 bender , and it seems to pull harder at the top end, traction is limited, 96 studs up the middle on all three sleds.my wifes sled is an 04 venom 600, i put the 89a-10 weights in it, and they all rev about 8,000 rpm.my son got 102 on the digital speedo with the 04 venom, the 03 sxr 600, and my sled were real close. he would take me out of the hole, but i would pass him about 1/2 track, and keep pulling away.not sure of the top end speed, but it sure does hook better with the rpm at 8,00-8,200.mr viper, i would like to get a suggestion of a better helix to run in my sled.also, do you think i should put the pipes on?the primary was a liitle hotter than the secondary, do i need to add spring pressure to the secondary?
 
did 100 miles yesterday with the sxr 700,tried the 51/43 helix on my sled, and it pulls much harder, not sure about top end, havent opened it up on the strip yet.seems to have a flat spot in the 6,000 rpm range.as soon as it hits 7,000, it runs much smoother.can someone elaborate on why it has a flat spot at 6,000 rpm ?and what do you think i should do to correct this problem ? most of my trail riding is at 6,000 rpm, so im on and off the gas to get around the flat spot.
 
a sxr has a inherent flat spot in the midrange due to the reed cage being too close to the cylinder, most guys use reed spacers and then adjust the needle clip and it pretty much will go away. Using the clutching with more aggressive settings is likely just making it more noticeable now.
 
Tried vforce reeds and it IS a waste of money. They are really pricey. We had good results with a cheap homemade reed spacer.
 
you can buy reed spacer kits on ebay they are just aluminum spacers comes with gaskets and bolts ususally about $25-30, and then drop the needle a half shim. Meaning just remove the plastic shim from under the clip and place on top of metal clip on the needle. leave the metal clip in same groove, this will clean up the midrange burble.
 
Give 'em a shot. I am learning alot in this thread and I don't even have a sxr. Mines a srx. If thats a pic of the whole exhaust system with "can". Very loud like dnr magnet loud. I believe you have to rejet when ever you mess with pipes. Don't burn down the motor with those. Did you do the reed spacers yet? Those pipes are going to throw off your clutching a little as I think while they add power, its a narrower powerband. If your gonna mess around with weights as much as you are, might as well get a set of heavy hitters or something adjustable. Just from this thread, you must have spent $300 on weights alone. Unless you have a bunch laying around. Listen to mr viper, I am just a cheerleader waiting to hear more results!
 
i have also learned alot just this season.last year a friend of mine who used to race told me that i was reving too high.so i took his advice, and tried to heavy up my stock weights. i put 4.5 rivets in the weights to bring my rpm down.it worked, the sled reved lower, and i gained mph, because it put power to the ground.so i have another friend who bought a race v-max 4, and the guy he bought it from had a bunch of weights and gears that he used on his yamahas for racing, hence the extra weights i have put into the sxr, 600, and my wifes venom.i have tried the stock weights with the 4.5 rivets in my 00 sxr 700,and it made a big difference.then i tried the 89a-10 weights, and the sled pulled much harder.i wanted to try the 89l-17605 weights because they are for the power inc.pipes.http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/tuningpics/powincsx.jpg this is where i got the idea .the weights alone are the best i have tried so far.then i took mr vipers advice to try a split helix, im running a 51/43, and the sled pulls way better. i used to have the power inc. pipes on my sled, and the thing had awesome power with the stock weights.i cant even imagine how my sled will pull with the bender pipes with the new weights.not sure about gearing, or a helix change, but im gonna give it a shot,i put the reed spacers in last night, and im going to try it today.i like to do one thing at a time to better understand what works, and what doesnt.everyone says that you have to jet to run the pipes, i ran the power inc. pipes on my sled for 9,000 miles,and the only thing that was changed was the rollers on the primary.not sure why, but they put bigger rollers on it.the jets were stock, the gearing was stock, the clutches were stock, and the sled ripped at 9,000 rpm for 9,000 miles until i lost a head gasket.i am a novice tuner, and i appreciate all the help im getting from everyone on this site.i hope others can use this thread to make there sxr better than ever just as i have.im gonna keep tuning until the sled is dialed in for max performance without doing anything to the engine, and im going to do the same with my buddies 03 sxr 600.
 
i want to make my sled pull as hard as a stock thundercat 1000, not sure if that is possible, but im gonna give it my all !!!
 
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so, i went for a ride,and the spacers didnt make a difference.kinda bummed about that!!!something isnt rite, it does not like rpm between 5500, and 7,000.anything below, or above that rpm is smooth and crisp.hoping someone can help with diagnosing this problem. most of my trail riding is in that rpm range.it rips when i am at full throttle.could it be something in the carbs?or is it electrical? PLEASE HELP !!! brian
 
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im gonna try another set of carbs off my parts sled,ill bet the guy that put the pipes on mine changed the needle settings when he put the pipes on.its worth a shot, the parts sled had the reed spacers too, so im hoping this will solve the problem.ill look at the carbs when i take them off to see what if anything was changed for the pipes.im crossing my fingers !!!
 
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