2000 sxr clutching, and gearing


Did you move the plastic spacer on the needle? Did you try the pipes? T-cat 1000 will be a hard goal to beat without engine mods but Im sure it can be done. Just remember the T-Cat isn't going to be stock either. I am in the process of learning this tuning stuff but it seems a little more difficult for me then most. I so want to experiment with different clutch and gear combos but money is getting tight. Got lawyer fees from my Fathers estate and his widow is trying to hose me and my bro and sis out of our willed stuff. I saw a box of used Yamaha misc springs, gears and weights on ebay for $50 buy it now but by the time I was ready to buy it, sold. I asked alot of questions about this stuff on here for a while and I try not to ask much anymore. I think I "wore out my welcome" with a few members on here so I mostly read and search and read again. I have a set up in mind I want to try but like I said, funds on the downfall like the snow.
Those pipes will probably exaggerate your flat spot even more so I would get that straightened out next. Probably a needle setting like mrviper said. If you don't want to ask too much, try running it in the flatspot for a while and hit the kill switch and check plugs and change which ever way you have to go using that chart on pg 4. You must have good snow there. Good luck and have fun!
Vic
 
going riding today,im running the wifes 04 venom.ill take the carbs apart tonight ,and see what the needle settings are.i hear ya vic,clutch tuning is a very complicated process.soo many combinations to try to get to where you wanna be.then you throw in gearing, and pipes,and you are back to square one.i ask alot of questions too, and sometimes ill get advice, and other times ill get nothing.i guess what we all need to know is, where do we start?do we gear the sled first?clutch it first?put the pipes on first?all these have to work together, but where do you start?i think it would be very beneficial for all of us novice tuners to have a mentor who has tried it all to take us under there wing, and show us the way to a perfect setup.i have probably thousands or more hours of reading about how clutching works, and there is not enough specific information that i can find to nail it down on the first or second try.it takes up alot of a novice tuners time to get the sled where you want it.sure, you can go to the tuning page, and use the same clutch setup as another member is using and have good results on your sled, but every sled is different, and it may not work as well for you as it did for them.im a gear head,i have been building old mopars for years.currently building a 68 plymouth satellite for my son.383 727 tranny 355 gears 460 hp.and its alot easier for me to figure out how to dial that in compared to clutching my sled.of course i get advice from other mopar guys on what cam to use,carb jetting, and on and on.clutch tuning is deffinately the most complex thing i have ever tried to do, and im not giving up until i can get all i can out of my sled without any internal engine mods.i guess im gonna ask one more question, and hopefully ill get an answer. here it is.im going to put the pipes on my sled, so where do i start,and in what order should i make changes?im a 200 lb guy, sled is geared now at 22-40, 1 inch predator track,96 studs up the middle.new stock springs in both clutches.stock jetting.i need to know where to start first !!! thanks brian
 
Last edited:
decided to put the carbs of mt brother in laws 97 sx 700 on my sled to see if they are any better, they ran mint on his sled.gave them a good cleaning,and there arent any coolant lines to the carbs, so i just hooked the lines together at the on off lever.gonna try them, and if it doesnt clear up the midrange bog, i am going to try to change some electrical parts, hoping its not the stator, and it runs mint if not, im going to look at the electrical system , the last sled that came in was the stator, not sure if it would be the same problem,but i cant rule it out yet.got the reed spacers on,and havent changed the needle settings yet,but his sled ripped with those carbs, so im gopnna give it a shot.wodering if there is a difference between the 97 sx engine, and the 2000 sxr? is there any difference in the reed mounting surface between the carbs and the engine, or is the sxr the same?some one must know !!! brian
 
the more i think about it, i was wondering if it could be a reed problem?i have another set i can try.they looked good when i put the spacers in, but not really sure what to look for.can anyone tell me how to determine if there is something wrong with the reeds?no cracks or broken reeds, maybe just weak?im also gonna change the needle washers positions as mr viper suggested, has anyone else changed the needle settings?and did it clear up the problem?or has anyone found anything in the electrical system that would cause this problem?thanks brian ps, is it normal to have the airbox to have a good amount of oil in it after 500 miles?
 
Last edited:
took the sled out today, trail rode it, and made a few passes on the pond.its deffinately not the carbs.ran exactly the same.from 5000-7000 rpm sucks !!!so im on and off the gas constantly on the trail.spacers didnt make a difference, so im gonna change the needle setting as mr viper suggested.sled rips anything after 7000.i checked the plugs after making a few passes, and the center plug had more brown on the center than the other two.the other plugs were nice.i indicated the plugs before i put them in, and the two outside plugs line up perfect , the center plug is not centered,its turned towards the clutch side.im gonna try the needle, and ill post the results.
 
mr viper,are you saying that i should do all three needles?i know that for the bender pipes they told me to run the center clip at # 4.stock specs are at #3 for all.im going to set up one set of carbs for the stock can, and one set for the pipes.i should be getting the pilots, and mains for the pipes today.
 
Last edited:
so i took my brother in laws carbs apart today, and the needle clip was on the #4 position on all three.the needles are 6dgm5.both washers on the bottom of the clip.should i just move the clip to # 3 position with both the washers on the bottom,or should i put one washer on top?someone please help.
 
i also just pulled my stock carbs apart, went much faster after doing it once allready.same needles, but set at the factory setting.#3 clip position with both washers on the bottom.i dont get it, both sets of carbs seemed to run the same on the sled.midrange burble from hell at 5,000-7,000 .what could possibly make the sled run like that with the settings the way they are?should i try one washer on the top, or should i look for something else that could be causing the midrange burble?i really need help figuring this out.im riding with a bunch of friends this weekend, and i need to be race ready!!!PLEASE HELP !!! thanks brian
 
brianbailey440 said:
dont get it, both sets of carbs seemed to run the same on the sled.midrange burble from hell at 5,000-7,000 .what could possibly make the sled run like that with the settings the way they are?
Click to expand...

because they are the same spec, its not the carbs, its the settings as you have already been instructed about previously. The burble is because its too rich, thats why you were given the spec of dropping the needle a half shim, leave the clip in the 3rd groove and remove the bottom plastic shim and place it on top to store it with the other one, this will be 2.5 needle setting, this along with 142.5 mains in all 3 cylinders, set of reed spacers with 92-93 octane gas will remove the burble(((THIS is with the stock single pipe only)))
 
Good read for us novices. Wish he would have taken mrviper700 advise 2 weeks ago tho.
Sitting back with bucket of popcorn waiting to hear results😊
 
pulled the reeds out, and found a bunch of corrosion on the cages!!!especially the center cylinder.gonna put the reeds from the parts sled in, and hopefully that solves it.parts sled had nice cages, no corrosion.Picture 1967.jpgthats the center cylinder.Picture 1964.jpgthat is the other center cylinder.crossing my fingers.also gonna move the washer to the top from underneath as mr viper told me to do two weeks ago.should have listened to him in the first place, but wasnt smart enough.
 
Last edited:
Make sure your reeds are in good shape. Had a vmax 4 and couldn't give full throttle off the line or it would just run flat. Stop and plugs were wet on all cylinders. Give it 1/4 throttle until revs were above 8300 then it would run fine. Found out the reeds weren't in very good shape, changed them and it was almost perfect. Tired 2 different coils from another machine and problem solved. Try different coils first then check your reeds. Was running quad pipes that is why I said after 8300. Try coming out only 1/4 throttle then pin it. Has the sled always done this or has it just started?
 
i ask alot of questions, cause im still learning.but im sure that those reeds had something to do with my problem.ihad the pipes on the original engine in my sled,it went for 9,000 miles until i blew a head gasket.it had 1500 miles when the first owner put the pipes on,i bought it with the pipes, power inc end dumps with stingers, at 4700 miles. i ran it until 11,700 miles, then changed the engine, and ran the pipes for a couple years until the fish cops caught me.sled had stock weights,and reved 9200 rpm.changed back to stock pipe, and ran it like that.never noticed a bog.since i have changed the weights, and clutched it i have noticed the burble to be more apparent.never noticed it in the sled before i lowered the rpm,and changed the helix.kinda glad i did,those reed cages look like poop.gonna lean it out as mr viper said and ill post the results.eating popcorn in the meantime!!!
 
soo pumped right now, put it all back together as mr viper told me to do, and the flat spot is gone!!!thanks mr viper, i really appreciate your patience with me.just so you know, i never doubted you would point me in the right direction.gonna take it out with my buddies, and im sure ill be very happy with it now.
 
Very cool 🍻 thanks for all the follow ups to your changes. Very informative post for me. Mr vipers knowledgebase is pretty impressive. Good luck with that setup and thanks to you both!
 
ngiht and day difference,im sure im gonna smoke some f7s tomorrow.sled is stupid fast with the stock pipe.gonna run it this weekend with the stock pipe, and order some new springs and gaskets for the pipes, then im going after my buddies thundercat!!!wish me luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top