yamalars
Member
I think Don mean angles on ALL of your helixes?
viperhauck
Member
I think Don mean angles on ALL of your helixes?
Yes, read it to fast. Have corrected that now.
viperhauck
Member
Tested the maximumperformance 50-40 helix now and it was even worse. 7800-7900 rpm. The only thing i dont have tried is stator.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
unplug the headlights, turn off grips and thumb warmer and try it, if it doesnt fall off as bad the stator could be getting weak. The highest load the stator sees is a WOT. Does it make the very first pass at proper rpm and then get worse as engine heats up?
looking at your helix list you really only have 2 helixs which are known actual angles the dalton 52r/46 and the stock 47, so its hard to make any real distinction between the clutch set ups. Thats the problem with coded helixs( not knowing what the angles and radius is) and having differnt brands of helix because they all shift differnt depending on how the radius is cut in the ramps. meaning 1 brand can shift more aggressive then the other and even though it may be marked a differnt angle loads the clutch more because of its cut.
looking at your helix list you really only have 2 helixs which are known actual angles the dalton 52r/46 and the stock 47, so its hard to make any real distinction between the clutch set ups. Thats the problem with coded helixs( not knowing what the angles and radius is) and having differnt brands of helix because they all shift differnt depending on how the radius is cut in the ramps. meaning 1 brand can shift more aggressive then the other and even though it may be marked a differnt angle loads the clutch more because of its cut.
viperhauck
Member
Yes, its get worse when the engine is warmer
viperhauck
Member
Last run the warmer was of but headlight was on
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Yes, its get worse when the engine is warmer
stators get weaker with heat.
I looked up a brand new yamaha stator they are like $215 and whatever the shipping is to you.
viperhauck
Member
Tomorrow we are going to take a ride, Lars will join and the srx have to stay in the garage and I take the viper with the price
viperhauck
Member
stators get weaker with heat.
I looked up a brand new yamaha stator they are like $215 and whatever the shipping is to you.
I can take the viper stator and try. That one is almost brand new
viperhauck
Member
viperhauck
Member
viperhauck
Member
Tried to remove the headlight but no difference. Also remove the ypvs cover and watch the servo at full throttle. Ypvs working as it should.
Tried yamalars srx today and that sled is a animal. Just screaming and its FAST
Tried yamalars srx today and that sled is a animal. Just screaming and its FAST
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
Tried to remove the headlight but no difference. Also remove the ypvs cover and watch the servo at full throttle. Ypvs working as it should.
Tried yamalars srx today and that sled is a animal. Just screaming and its FAST
you guys have same engine, but he has the big bore pipes as well=(+10hp). see if you can find a set they work good, only pipe thats worth a darn on a srx engine.
I dont think its the cdi, sounds more like stator output if it runs correct 8500rpm the first pass good on rpm then fades as engine gets warm. let me know on the stator I can order you one.
viperhauck
Member
Yes I know its had bender pipes. But I dont understand why my cant hold the rpms? Today when I run it it was only halfwarm but still its drops rpm. Have some issue with the price now (leaking antifreze in the cyl) so can take that stator and try. But do you know any good set of bender big bore pipes?
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
the bender pipes are tough to find used, they cost like $13-1400 new which is alot of $$$$ for 10hp.
weak stators will produce more juice when cold then hot, so youd need to ride it 1 pass when its cold, if it holds rpm the first pass out of the garage then drops off on the second pass the stator is getting weak.
weak stators will produce more juice when cold then hot, so youd need to ride it 1 pass when its cold, if it holds rpm the first pass out of the garage then drops off on the second pass the stator is getting weak.
yamalars
Member
Thanks Henrik! Very happy with sled myself but it's always great to get feedback from other's and to hear it from Henrik who's usually ride a price 1000 is hard to beat! I think we had a great sunny ride today! To bad the price was drinking antifreeze and didn't perform when i finally got a testride , but that's fixable.Tried to remove the headlight but no difference. Also remove the ypvs cover and watch the servo at full throttle. Ypvs working as it should.
Tried yamalars srx today and that sled is a animal. Just screaming and its FAST
viperhauck
Member
The progress goes on. Have changed the stator now and grind a timing key to 2.5 degree advanced. Have also fitted down the price performance pipes just to try, they are very close to the bender big bore pipes in lenght and width.
yammitrip1
Member
I am very curious to see what this is, my sled is having the same problem and I have been fighting it for 2 years. I just pulled my reeds out and a few of them were chipped and not sealing, will see if I can make some power after that. IF not I will change my stator for the fun of it if your sled is cured from a new stator
viperhauck
Member
I am very curious to see what this is, my sled is having the same problem and I have been fighting it for 2 years. I just pulled my reeds out and a few of them were chipped and not sealing, will see if I can make some power after that. IF not I will change my stator for the fun of it if your sled is cured from a new stator
I dont think it is the stator but must try.
viperhauck
Member
Tried to replace the stator and no difference. Have tried all possible things now or have I missed something? Can it be the porting spec that not match up with rpm/pipes? Or does just overshift? Tried to change my green sec. spring to a silver one when I was out testing and I dident feel any difference at all.