Srx cdi 2001 vs 2002

ya, just make a short couple passes with it, it will tell you if its in the cdi box real quick it will also make up for the hjetting being so rich, dont ride it for a mile wide open.... like nice blips about 400-500ft long should tell you ,just watch the tach and see what it does.

u did put the keyway in the right way, it should have moved the flywheel clockwise looking at it from the mag side.

Can Always try the viper cdi but have tried a different srx cdi. Yes the key is grinded on the left side so the flywheel moves slightly clockwise.
 

Knowing you used to run leaner jetting before i doubt viper cdi will make a diff. but try it anyway. Try a run with tps unplugged also.. If it still a dog then
lock it at WOT on the river and jump of!!:o| Or.. you could try loosen up the tracktension a bit and se if it get's worse..
 
for what it is worth Viperhauck, there is a set of srx bender big bore pipes forsale in the free 7 day forum.
 
Update. Change clutching again. Back to stock 8dn with 4.5g in tip and bolt with nut inner. Oem spring with 4-5mm shim. Dalton 52r 46 with Green @70. And brand new 8dn belt. For the first time the sled feels better. Steady rpm at 88-8900 up to 85mph then I run out of room. The only thing is when I release the throttle around 60 and up and give full it starts around 8000rpm and climb up to 8800, pretty fast but feels sluggish.

Did a test on tps and locked it nearly full. Dident notice any different but the warning light stop blinking.
 
Update. Change clutching again. Back to stock 8dn with 4.5g in tip and bolt with nut inner. Oem spring with 4-5mm shim. Dalton 52r 46 with Green @70. And brand new 8dn belt. For the first time the sled feels better. Steady rpm at 88-8900 up to 85mph then I run out of room. The only thing is when I release the throttle around 60 and up and give full it starts around 8000rpm and climb up to 8800, pretty fast but feels sluggish.

Did a test on tps and locked it nearly full. Dident notice any different but the warning light stop blinking.


On my 2002 SRX I found the full throttle voltage was more critical for performance then the idle setting.
2.8 - 3.0 volts at wide open worked the best.[ based on a 5 volt power source]
 
On my 2002 SRX I found the full throttle voltage was more critical for performance then the idle setting.
2.8 - 3.0 volts at wide open worked the best.[ based on a 5 volt power source]

Yamalars has built a custom bracket and linkage for the tps that I going to try
 
would be cool if you explained and maybe took some pics of the tps bracket and linkage, explain why and how it is better? of is it for testing?
 
put the w/w/w back in without the shims, you want to be at 8500-8600rpm, anymore then 8750 and the cdi box retards timing. That engine is more then comfortable at 8600rpm with stock pipes. Will work best with a 8100-8200rpm out of the gate shifted hard and let it climb up to 8600rpm peak

also inspect those buttons on sec clutch that ride on the helix make sure they are not all worn flat, they should be rounded and just barely have any area to touch the ramps, when flat.. they rub more area and ruin the backshift and upshift and will play havic on rpm.
 
put the w/w/w back in without the shims, you want to be at 8500-8600rpm, anymore then 8750 and the cdi box retards timing. That engine is more then comfortable at 8600rpm with stock pipes. Will work best with a 8100-8200rpm out of the gate shifted hard and let it climb up to 8600rpm peak

also inspect those buttons on sec clutch that ride on the helix make sure they are not all worn flat, they should be rounded and just barely have any area to touch the ramps, when flat.. they rub more area and ruin the backshift and upshift and will play havic on rpm.

Have the timing key so dont think 8700-8800 hurt so bad now? Going to double check the buttons
 
would be cool if you explained and maybe took some pics of the tps bracket and linkage, explain why and how it is better? of is it for testing?
Mach z carbs don't have tps to begin with and are not prepared for one either. This is what i came up with:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLyXs51HrrM

Remember,this is a prototype! Not tested yet, going to use a throttle control bar from an old volvo at the ball-ends later when i find one instead of the steel wire..
Going to attach tps unit to carb's with another bracket.
 
On my 2002 SRX I found the full throttle voltage was more critical for performance then the idle setting.
2.8 - 3.0 volts at wide open worked the best.[ based on a 5 volt power source]
I'm a little confused here.. I tought tps only was "working" at low-mid rpms
and soon as pw's open and engine is "on pipe" tps would be kind of shut off and engine would be at it's fixed timingcurve regardless of tps setting? Or do you mean wot tps setting effect your low/mid performance more than idle setting and topend remain's the same no matter what..? Not trying to start an argue Bob, just curious..;)!
 
What are you using for a TPS....I found TPS voltage at full throttle to have a huge effect on my 2002 SRXs full throttle performance.
Oops! Missed this one.. guess it will answer my question, but i still don't get it! Why would a (correct working) tps effect wot performance? I would understand if it was broke like your's was and sending irratic voltage to cdi so timing would be everywhere..
 
Oops! Missed this one.. guess it will answer my question, but i still don't get it! Why would a (correct working) tps effect wot performance? I would understand if it was broke like your's was and sending irratic voltage to cdi so timing would be everywhere..

I honestly don't know why, but higher TPS voltage at wide open throttle caused my 2002 SRX to bog. It was very noticeable when I installed a XCR TM38 carb rack with TPS. The Polaris TPS was putting out close to 5 volts at full throttle and my SRX was performing poorly until I installed a fixed TPS putting out 2.88 volts.
 
Ok and dcs wasnt flashing when sled run bad at the 5volt setting? Will test these diff. settings when i have tps up and working.
 


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