Checking belt align and deflection how to?

nick5oh said:
Anyone know if the belt will sink deeper in the secondary at all if I rev the piss out of it ? I only reved it enough to engage the clutches. If it doesn't sink, at 2.5mm i will get belt squeal? Any issues at all etc? This spec of 1.5 mm is the belt height and belt deflection is the amount it moves if you were to put a straight edge across the belt and press down in the center. That distance is deflection correct?
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Its not hard to change so give 2.5 a try, also not sure if the washers#13 are still in place but if you remove them you may not have to buy the bolts yet.
 
A couple of bucks said:
Did you not believe him????
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I believe everything yammy tony says he's very knowledgeable he just didn't state the spec and I didn't not know until you posted that chart.

Thanks once again guys for all the help. I'll be trying out the new belt and new springs this Saturday night. I'll post up once I see the results
 
captnviper said:
Its not hard to change so give 2.5 a try, also not sure if the washers#13 are still in place but if you remove them you may not have to buy the bolts yet.
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I ended up getting the 3 bolts and 3 .5mm shims for the secondary while I was at the dealer getting the springs. At least I have em now if I need them. If I remove the shims the secondary sheaves will separate more causing belt height to decrease correct? And if I add shims it will bring the sheaves closer together causing the belt height to increase correct?
One last thing...what's the torque spec on the three bolts?
Thanks again
 
nick5oh said:
I ended up getting the 3 bolts and 3 .5mm shims for the secondary while I was at the dealer getting the springs. At least I have em now if I need them. If I remove the shims the secondary sheaves will separate more causing belt height to decrease correct? And if I add shims it will bring the sheaves closer together causing the belt height to increase correct?
One last thing...what's the torque spec on the three bolts?
Thanks again
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yes and yes
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/ausertech/Torque Specifications of Small Screws.htm
 
So I just turned some wrenches on the sled and found more interesting things out.
Secondary spring was red, wrapped at 1 on the sheave and 9 on the helix.
Primary spring was green-white-green.
I put in the primary spring that is supposed to be there.....yellow-white-yellow brand new.
And I put in a new red secondary spring wrapped at 1 on the sheave and 6 on the helix for 70. Is this ok? Or should I go 3 on the sheave and 3 on the helix for 60?
Helix is stamped 8BV, which I believe is correct for my sled(99srx700).
Primary weights have 89A 10 stamped on them and the primary sheave has 8BW stamped on it? I looked them numbers up to compare to a 99srx600 because the primary spring that was in it is for a 600srx, so I thought maybe the wrong primary is on my sled?
Don't know what went on with this sled before me but anyways.....trying to set it straight. I guess what my main concern now is if I should try the secondary wrapped at 70 or should I put it at 60? Once again the sled is stock engine wise. Thanks guys
 
the 89a10 weights are not stock those are from a vmax4, and likely why the green/white/green spring was in there. That g/w/g spring is stiffer then the stock srx yellow/white/yellow, so by installing the y/w/y you will lower your peak rpm and likely underev the sled and make it run worse. The setting on the secondary is horrible at 100 twist and likely a band aid for someone trying to get peak rpm(which is 83-8400rpm for your sled-1999). at 100 twist its so inefficient and holding back the belt the clutchs are likely very hot to the touch after a ride as the rear clutch is fighting the front clutch for sure, totally wrong set up there.

I am kinda confused as to what it is your trying to do by changing the clutch parts when the thread was about checking and setting the belt deflection??? someone before you ran a different clutch set up in the sled, which with those weights would be more of a lake race wide open top speed set up. if your wanting to put it back stock youll also need a set of 8dn10 clutch weights, and likely need to measure the roller diameter also.
 
mrviper700 said:
the 89a10 weights are not stock those are from a vmax4, and likely why the green/white/green spring was in there. That g/w/g spring is stiffer then the stock srx yellow/white/yellow, so by installing the y/w/y you will lower your peak rpm and likely underev the sled and make it run worse. The setting on the secondary is horrible at 100 twist and likely a band aid for someone trying to get peak rpm(which is 83-8400rpm for your sled-1999). at 100 twist its so inefficient and holding back the belt the clutchs are likely very hot to the touch after a ride as the rear clutch is fighting the front clutch for sure, totally wrong set up there.

I am kinda confused as to what it is your trying to do by changing the clutch parts when the thread was about checking and setting the belt deflection??? someone before you ran a different clutch set up in the sled, which with those weights would be more of a lake race wide open top speed set up. if your wanting to put it back stock youll also need a set of 8dn10 clutch weights, and likely need to measure the roller diameter also.
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This all makes sense now. I was getting good feedback on this topic so just figured I'd continue on asking questions as I turn wrenches trying to sort this out. If I run the green white green primary. And set it at a different wrap how would this combo be? The weights have one rivet in the tip and none in the heel. Of course I don't know what weight the rivet is. Thanks mr viper
 
All you can do is try the setup and report back pay attention to the shift curve and shiftout rpm's. I would feel the clutches after a run to see how hot they are, or you could just pickup parts for a proven recipe. Will cost you around $200 depending on how many parts you can source used. Popular on that sled would be 8dn-20 4.5 both holes w-w-w, 52-45 or close helix green at 60. Not sure how bad the 89a-10 for your application.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/clutch_parts2.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/clutch_parts1B.htm
The weights are grouped together with similar profiles in them charts, so the 8dn's and 8ek would all be very close and probably preferable to whats in it now. rollers also should be 15.6mm
 
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take pics of the weights, should be able to tell what rivets are in them, also need to measure the roller size as the 99 srx was the only year they were different size from other srx, if small rollers will be lower rpm. I can tell from a good pic of the roller what size as well as they have marks on them.

can give you a better idea how to set up what you have with a tad bit more information
 
captnviper said:
All you can do is try the setup and report back pay attention to the shift curve and shiftout rpm's. I would feel the clutches after a run to see how hot they are, or you could just pickup parts for a proven recipe. Will cost you around $200 depending on how many parts you can source used. Popular on that sled would be 8dn-20 4.5 both holes w-w-w, 52-45 or close helix green at 60. Not sure how bad the 89a-10 for your application.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/clutch_parts2.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/drivespecs/clutch_parts1B.htm
The weights are grouped together with similar profiles in them charts, so the 8dn's and 8ek would all be very close and probably preferable to whats in it now. rollers also should be 15.6mm
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Thanks for the info and those charts. Haven't came across those yet. If you see mr vipers post that is the action I will follow. Father took the sled up north today, I'll be up there tomorrow evening dying to ride but I am gonna tear the clutches out again.
 
mrviper700 said:
take pics of the weights, should be able to tell what rivets are in them, also need to measure the roller size as the 99 srx was the only year they were different size from other srx, if small rollers will be lower rpm. I can tell from a good pic of the roller what size as well as they have marks on them.

can give you a better idea how to set up what you have with a tad bit more information
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Thanks mr viper! I will do exactly this. Sled is up north right now and I will be up there tomorrow night. As soon as I get there I'm gonna tear into the clutches and take the pics and measurements you need to help me out. I really appreciate your help and advice.
To be honest the sled rode pretty good how it was. Good accel, decent downshift when letting off and it recovered pretty well out of turns and corners. I know it can be better though. As far as a pass on the lake :( garbage!! However my belt was disgusting. As stated earlier in this thread, with the new belt it sat way higher in the secondary. Anyways I'm confident the sled will pick up with the new belt and proper height, but I need to get a good run in with some decent data so we can take this to the next level. Thank once again so much. I may send a pm to you once I get the pics. Hoping to get it back together as soon as possible hopefully Saturday night so I can enjoy some of the fresh 12" of snow we got up there today, and even better I could hit up some radar runs there having on a lake near my cottage in Sunday. Ttu tomorrow mr viper! Cheers
 
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2 pics here from last night when I was workin on it. Not very clear shot of the weights but it's something. Also a pic of the primary sliding sheave.
 
it wont matter if the primary is off a vmax4 or not still work the same, the difference will be on the roller axles the early ones were 8mm instead of 9mm, so its just the rollers that will be different, wont effect the way the clutch operates. The 89a10 weights are from a 93-94 vmax4, the 1992 weights only had 1 hole in them and were 89a-00, not 89a-10. anyways, just need to see the rollers, and a pic of the rivets in the weights, which I see were gold colored and short so likely are either 2.4 or 2.7 grams.

you need to have like 15-15.5mm rollers, put the g/w/g spring back in with the 89a10 weights, then set up the rear clutch with your helix and the red dot spring set at 70 degrees twist(6 on the helix and 1 inside the clutch), twist the helix till it lines up with first set of pads and stud holes, bolt it down and then report back rpm. Cant tune the sled till you know what it does rpm wise.
 
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