Phazer WIDEBODY Build, looking for tips/direction
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ADDvanced
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Lowest hole more for off trail and higher hole for on trail?
yes. i just leave them all set in the lower hole.
ADDvanced
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Nice, good to know! Going to try it as is then swap it and ride it back to back.
Couple more vids of progress, boys:
Super obvious but there wasn't a video when I googled it, so there you go.
Also whipped up some tunnel protectors, not sure how they'll hold up but we'll see:
Couple more vids of progress, boys:
Also whipped up some tunnel protectors, not sure how they'll hold up but we'll see:
While you have the seat off, check the grommet that goes into the tank, sometimes they get cracked and leak. I replaced the spring with a zip tie. Or if the lines look bad its a good time to replace them with everything accessible. I put a new piece of wood on the bottom of my seat, the old one was rotten. Got a new seat cover off ebay
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Alright, I ahve the sled back together, but I cannot get it to fire. I've adjusted the throttle and choke cables correctly, and I can see fuel getting to the carbs via the new fuel lines I installed. But just nothing. I sprayed some starting fluid into the airbox and it popped and gurgled a bit, but nothing. Just redid the carbs.... so... ?!?! Pretty frustrated, quitting for the night. Not sure what else to check, everything was just set to spec, new jets, floats set to the right height, etc. If it's room temp, should I be using choke? I realize every sled is different but just curious what yours are like.
float bowls are empty. either you crank forever with e start or you put a table spoon of gas down a cylinder to get it to fire up and pump up faster. usually have to do it a few times before it stays running.
Just started my '88 phazer yesterday after a carb rebuild (so dry float bowls) and seemed like it fired right up definitely less than 10 seconds I think closer to 5. Could be a lot of things. A stuck float (they can stick up sometimes), kinked lines, fouled plugs, fuel pump went bad, or maybe you'r e just not turning it over enough to fill the carb bowls as the previous poster said.
Also you said it fired but was that with throttle applied via thumb? if you push on it a bit TORS won't kill the engine (rocker switch on throttle) basically I'm getting at did you rule out TORS?
Also you said it fired but was that with throttle applied via thumb? if you push on it a bit TORS won't kill the engine (rocker switch on throttle) basically I'm getting at did you rule out TORS?
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Idk the floats looked clean when I rebuilt the carbs, and I set them to factory spec (11-13mm above dge of carb body). Fuel lines are new, not kinked, and clear. I can see the fuel getting to the carbs. Plugs are new. Fuel pump definitely works as I drove it onto the trailer when I bought it a few months ago, and I can see the fuel getting pushed up towards the carbs when I turn it over.
It fires if I shoot some starting fluid or premix into the throat of the carbs. I do not have the TORs thing connected... it's disconnected, and it was like that when it ran/drove onto my trailer.
Can anyone watch this and see if I did anything wrong? I'm thinking maybe I messed up the carb somehow, but idk how. They were pretty simple carbs and I've done a lot of them. Anyone see anything?
It fires if I shoot some starting fluid or premix into the throat of the carbs. I do not have the TORs thing connected... it's disconnected, and it was like that when it ran/drove onto my trailer.
Can anyone watch this and see if I did anything wrong? I'm thinking maybe I messed up the carb somehow, but idk how. They were pretty simple carbs and I've done a lot of them. Anyone see anything?
At the 2:12 mark I can see that one butterfly is open while the other is closed. Use the screw in between the carbs to correct this.
Give the carbs a clean, but don't worry about that black dust, its just from the belt. Under no circumstance should the airbox be removed or gutted unless you want to have engine failures, not to mention it won't run properly. If you really want a filter, it would have to be installed where the air enters the airbox, but I wouldn't worry about it.
At the 9 minute mark, don't like the way those floats are sticking way up. Shouldn't have to bend the tangs so much. You changed the needle valves?
In addition, with the carbs upside down, the float spring might be collapsed. You may have to hold the carbs at a slight angle so the springs are not collapsed to set the height.
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ADDvanced
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I did tweak that so they open identically.
9 min mark is before I adjusted them, they were sticking above carb sealing surface by 15mm, and spec was 11-13.
They definitely were not collapsed when inverted, I could push them down. I just reviewed the footage that wasn't in the above video and yeah, that is them 'sprung' upwards. Going to try dumping some premix in the cylinders and see what happens
Did you change the needle valve assemblies?
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Yes, I changed the needle assemblies. The ones I pulled out looked great, so idfk.
I pulled it 30x or so with the plugs out, didn't smell much fuel. I don't get it.
Dribbled premix into each cylinder and it fired off instantly then died.
Went to pull again and recoil rope just snapped.
Goign to pull teh fucking carbs again but I don't know what could be wrong.
Pretty damn frustrated at the moment.
I pulled it 30x or so with the plugs out, didn't smell much fuel. I don't get it.
Dribbled premix into each cylinder and it fired off instantly then died.
Went to pull again and recoil rope just snapped.
Goign to pull teh fucking carbs again but I don't know what could be wrong.
Pretty damn frustrated at the moment.
Take a break.
I would put the old needle valves back in if they appear fine.
GL
I would put the old needle valves back in if they appear fine.
GL
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video isn't showing up on my screen but from what it sounds like its the angle of the tab on the float that is the problem. This is a finiky thing to set and I've had trouble on my srx700 getting it right. I've seen one procedure that shows the carbs being held upside down and also at a 45 deg angle to set the tabs. This is to take some of the force off the little plunger/spring inside the needle valve. You want it fully extended to set the tab. IIRC the tab should be about bent parallel with the rest of the float. I'm guessing yours are just bent so the valve is pushed shut all the time. This is out of the manual from a 2000 srx 700, its not the diagram I was thinking of but it sort of alludes to having to angle the carb at a 45 deg to measure the float height
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Okay, before I put these in (again), the three little holes.... ONE is the pilot, one is in the middle and has the brass tube.... the THIRD HOLE... does it pass through to the front of the carb? I have been poking at it and cannot get air or carb cleaner to pass through it... okay or not?
Again, SUPER SIMPLE, the three little holes on the front and in the bowl area.... one is the pilot, not that one... one is hte middle, not that one... the only one left over... should that be blocked or pass through????
Again, SUPER SIMPLE, the three little holes on the front and in the bowl area.... one is the pilot, not that one... one is hte middle, not that one... the only one left over... should that be blocked or pass through????
The center hole and the pilot have the plugs. The other does not pass through