Schocker65
New member
Just getting around to putting in the new weights/rollers, things going real smooth until the last weight. On this one, I take the bolt and nut off and the bushing won't come out. The others slid out easily.
I have hit it pretty hard with a dead blow hammer via a similar diameter socket. It's really stuck. Won't go either direction.
Trying to save the washers, so reluctant to use heat. Any other ideas?
I have hit it pretty hard with a dead blow hammer via a similar diameter socket. It's really stuck. Won't go either direction.
Trying to save the washers, so reluctant to use heat. Any other ideas?
Yours is a 99 if I remember correctly. Did you remove the set screws on this? Other than that, I don't know, penetrating oil?
Schocker65
New member
No set screws present on my clutch.
Vincent
New member
Better if you can secure the clutch solid.
Then use penetrating oil and a good ball peen hammer with your socket. Dead blow hammer is soft and doesn't transfer the "shock energy" to loosen the bushing like a solid metal on metal strike will.
Then use penetrating oil and a good ball peen hammer with your socket. Dead blow hammer is soft and doesn't transfer the "shock energy" to loosen the bushing like a solid metal on metal strike will.
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Schocker65
New member
Tried a few good whacks with a metal hammer, nothing moved yet. Finally found some penetrant sprayed it with that. Will let it sit until tomorrow night and try again.
Schocker65
New member
Tried a few good whacks with a metal hammer, nothing moved yet. Finally found some penetrant sprayed it with that. Will let it sit until tomorrow night and try again.
Schocker65
New member
Tried and tried, couldn't get it out. Took to the dealer. Took them 3 minutes.
Was told they have specific punches just for that job.
No charge - thanks guys.
Was told they have specific punches just for that job.
No charge - thanks guys.
Is it long before you have this sled running? I am waiting to see what kind of mpg you get.
Schocker65
New member
I've already had it running, but the clutching seemed way off, so I rebuilt back to stock. During that time, I haven't even gone through a tank of gas, but no doubt it was guzzling!
Hoping the clutch work will improve that and the performance.
Hoping the clutch work will improve that and the performance.
Schocker65
New member
Just happened to be looking at the stock specs on the TY tech page, and noticed that the clutch weight/rivet info for my 99 V-Max 500 shown there differs from what my service manual calls for. The 99 tab on the tech page calls for 8CR weights with two rivets, while my service manual calls for 8AB with one rivet. FWIW, both the service manual and the tech page show the 8AB weights with one rivet of the Venture 500.
I just rebuilt using the 8AB weights with the one stainless rivet in the toe, but haven't gotten out of the yard yet due to the ball sucking weather that we've had here in New York's capital region.
Can anyone shed any light on this discrepancy?
I just rebuilt using the 8AB weights with the one stainless rivet in the toe, but haven't gotten out of the yard yet due to the ball sucking weather that we've had here in New York's capital region.
Can anyone shed any light on this discrepancy?
Schocker65
New member
Bump for the question above and also some info.
Got enough snow to put just a few miles on it. Clutch rebuild hasn't resulted in anything dramatic. A bit higher revving at low speed (0-20 mph), but seems to need less throttle than before to maintain 30-40 mph cruise. At those speeds, loaded with 400 lbs (2 up), I'm seeing about 6k rpm. Give it the boot and revs shoot up to just over 8k briefly and I'm at 70 pretty quickly before I run out of space and courage/stupid (daughter on back).
My automotive brain says this is counterintuitive, but I'm wondering if I'd see a drop in the frenetic revs if I went to a 21 tooth gear instead of the 22? I believe that is what the 500 Venture ran, right? Might help eliminate the whiff of belt that I'm getting at most takeoffs, too.
Opinions/experiences anyone?
Got enough snow to put just a few miles on it. Clutch rebuild hasn't resulted in anything dramatic. A bit higher revving at low speed (0-20 mph), but seems to need less throttle than before to maintain 30-40 mph cruise. At those speeds, loaded with 400 lbs (2 up), I'm seeing about 6k rpm. Give it the boot and revs shoot up to just over 8k briefly and I'm at 70 pretty quickly before I run out of space and courage/stupid (daughter on back).
My automotive brain says this is counterintuitive, but I'm wondering if I'd see a drop in the frenetic revs if I went to a 21 tooth gear instead of the 22? I believe that is what the 500 Venture ran, right? Might help eliminate the whiff of belt that I'm getting at most takeoffs, too.
Opinions/experiences anyone?
The 1999 Technical Update Manual shows the same weight specs as the Tech Pages here, for both the Vmax500 & VT500. It also shows 21t on the VT.
Shift rpm is 7800, you're fairly close at around 8k briefly but you didn't say what it settles back to. Make sure to keep the clutch faces clean of belt burn, corrosion, glaze, etc. Do you have the correct belt, is it glazed on the grip surface? Is it within the correct width range, and riding in the secondary properly? Wash it in hot soapy water and lightly scuff it. Is clutch center to center in spec, as well as offset? All the specs should be in your shop manual, and some or all in the owner manual if you have it. Check to make sure the engine is locked down, no broken or loose mounts.
Shift rpm is 7800, you're fairly close at around 8k briefly but you didn't say what it settles back to. Make sure to keep the clutch faces clean of belt burn, corrosion, glaze, etc. Do you have the correct belt, is it glazed on the grip surface? Is it within the correct width range, and riding in the secondary properly? Wash it in hot soapy water and lightly scuff it. Is clutch center to center in spec, as well as offset? All the specs should be in your shop manual, and some or all in the owner manual if you have it. Check to make sure the engine is locked down, no broken or loose mounts.
I think the revs will go up if you drop to 21 tooth. Sacked secondary spring?
European vs North American spec?
Did you check the drive axle carefully while you had the skid out?
Schocker65
New member
New OEM belt has less than 20 miles on it. Clutch faces aren't too bad from a cleanliness standpoint. Spacers are out for the new belt, so ride height looks good in the driven. I have to admit I haven't checked alignment and spacing. Will have to do that, but don't have the tool that makes it simple.
I had suspected drive axle bearing drag, but was told by local tech that it's unlikely if there's no noise or vibration coming from it, which there is not. When I had the bearing cover off, there was no play in the outer shell and it turned easily.
I had suspected drive axle bearing drag, but was told by local tech that it's unlikely if there's no noise or vibration coming from it, which there is not. When I had the bearing cover off, there was no play in the outer shell and it turned easily.
Schocker65
New member
Curious where that tech manual update comes from - I had purchased the service manual for the sled direct from Yamaha, but it obviously has different info, with not only weight and rivet info different, but also the table here shows a 43 helix with 90 degree rotation versus a 45 in my service manual with 40 degree (1-3) rotation.
Put maybe 10 miles on the sled today, and it's just not sorted out. Lots of revs and throttle needed at low to mid speed, and shifted out it stays at 8k plus. Put my bare hands on both clutches after stopping, and they were just slightly warm, maybe 100 degrees. Going to try to take some measurements tonight and then pull the driven and take it apart to see what I've got. I have a new red secondary spring that I'll throw in there. I'll note the hole positions and rotation when I take it apart and report back for some advice. I don't recall ever having taken a secondary apart before; how much stored energy should I be prepared for when I take out the bolts?
Took a couple of pictures. This was at my stop to feel how warm the clutches were:
Schocker65
New member
I don't think I answered this before, but I believe the sled is a North American spec model.
So I was able to measure the spacing, and it's just under 270mm, so in spec. Offset is a little trickier, but that window is huge: 13.5 to 16.5. Pretty sure it is in spec in that regard.
Helix is, in fact a 43, and was set to 90 just as indicated in the specs on the tech page. The helix slider buttons have very little wear.
FML for "correcting" the drive clutch arms to the 8AB's as referenced in the service manual. I'll be dropping the 8CR's back in; they were in good shape, relatively speaking. Maybe the new bushings in the cover/sliding sheave and new primary spring will give better performance than what I had in there before - that free length of the old spring might have been a problem. Who knows?
So I was able to measure the spacing, and it's just under 270mm, so in spec. Offset is a little trickier, but that window is huge: 13.5 to 16.5. Pretty sure it is in spec in that regard.
Helix is, in fact a 43, and was set to 90 just as indicated in the specs on the tech page. The helix slider buttons have very little wear.
FML for "correcting" the drive clutch arms to the 8AB's as referenced in the service manual. I'll be dropping the 8CR's back in; they were in good shape, relatively speaking. Maybe the new bushings in the cover/sliding sheave and new primary spring will give better performance than what I had in there before - that free length of the old spring might have been a problem. Who knows?
Comes from Yamaha, just like owners manual & service manual.
Tech manual shows same as table here.
Also shows red secondary spring
w-p-w primary spring, for short cover, the colors are on separate coils, not all in a row on the same coil.
15.0 primary rollers
Should be some as you work the helix off the studs, but sounds like you may have that solved now based on your other entry.
Schocker65
New member
Thank you so much for the information. Would you happen to have the publication number for that update? The manual that I bought is LIT-12618-VM-T1 which includes LIT-12618-01-83 and LIT-12618-02-01 within its covers.