fine tuning clutches for 1,000 ft

brianbailey440

brianbailey440

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Jan 22, 2012
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55
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berlin n.h.
getting much closer to being dialed in, but still not there yet.2000 sxr 700 w/ bender tripples,89l weights, i added 2.7 rivets,ywy primary spring,stock secondary spring w/51-43 helix.i have tried a couple different helix angles, and this is what i have found.tried a 49-38 bender, primary got hot, and it ran worse, didnt pull hard.tied a 52-40 msr8,seemed to pull hard untill half way, and quit pulling,secondary was hotter than primary.put the 51-43 yamaha back in, and wound from 60 to 70,it didnt really change much from how it ran before, a little snappier off the line.i hit just over 100 on the speedo with 23-40 gearing in 1000 ft.it feels like it could pull more on the top than what it is right now.i know it is a trial and error thing with clutching and im looking for some advise on what to try next.the rpm is just about spot on.it does spin for about 15 ft, and then hooks really good.the rpm when it hooks is about 8300, then climbs to about 8500 and stays there.my question is should i use a lighter rivet, or no rivets in the weights and try a helix with a smaller spread? something like a 51-45? or is there something else that i am missing?it seems like it could pull more on the top end than what it is doing right now.thanks for your input in advance. brian
 
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also, this 51-43 helix is a yamaha helix.i have read that yamaha angles are different from others such as bender etc.that in itself can be confusing. if i buy another helix from a different vendor,with the same angle/angles, what should i expect.how much difference in starting, and finish angle from a yamaha helix to a bender helix?is there a constant that i can expect?any charts for comparison?these are the things that i need to know, or it will take forever, and lots of $ experimenting to get me where i want to be.honestly, i have plenty of time, and not alot of $.id like to keep it simple.
 
anyone have a pile of yamaha helixs that i could try?id like to try yamaha helixs in a range of 51-45 to 52-47.im pretty sure something in that range will get me where i wanna be.ill pay for shipping, and buy what works best, and ship the rest back!!!
 
A couple of bucks said:
Post #114
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/61494-List-of-aftermarket-helix-angles/page6
Click to expand...
after reading this thread, its obvious to me that it would be wise to stick with one vendor when making helix changes.too many variables switching vendors.i think ill stick with oem for now, until i find the angles that work best for what im doing.that is if oem has what i need,if not then ill have to try something else.i do have a question that could be of importance to others also.say your running an oem 51-43 helix,and change to a oem 52-45 helix.would you expect to see a drop in rpm?and if so, how much of a drop?also can you use the helix to correct an over rev?
 
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Put in stock 8 df weight with the 8 fa rx1 helix with green spring is a fast good all around setup
 
i tried that,and i like the 89-l wieghts better.i just need it to find the right helix to shift out faster at the half way point.it seems too slow of a shift with the 51-43 yamaha helix.i would like to try a 51-45 or a 51-47 to see if it keeps pulling hard to the end of 1000 ft
00sxrjoe said:
Put in stock 8 df weight with the 8 fa rx1 helix with green spring is a fast good all around setup
Click to expand...
 
Different brand helixes are cut different. One might hold an angle longer than another. I know you want to stay with one brand but that brand might not be the one you want for your setup. Not sure what brand shifts better then others. I run a mixed bag for different secondary's. Hauck for the roller secondary and pioneer performance for the stock clutch. What works for someone else might not be what works with your sled. Others I ride with like dalton helixes for there sled. Same year different results. Testing is the only way to find out what works best for you.
 
exactly,testing is the only way to find out.that is why i wanna stay with oem for now, and try a higher # on the second angle.it may not shift as good as an aftermarket helix, but at least it will give me the shift that im looking for without all the variables.if my oem helix 51-43 actually measures 48-39 but gets the job done, then that is all that matters.so if i go to a 52-45, and it shifts like i want,then its the one i will use.im not really brand specific,just want to make it pull hard all the way to 1000 ft untill i run out of gear, and start to over rev slightly.and you are absolutely right about one sled having different results than another with the same mods.i have been studying clutching for a couple years now,and finally starting to understand what really works, and what doesnt.taking someone elses setup, and putting it on your sled might work, and it might not.the only way to know is to try it.
 
i have gone through the user clutching charts over and over.one common thing that i see is that some guys with srx sleds are using aggressive helix angles like i would like to try on my sled.not sure what the difference is between the different brands, but the angles are about the same that i would like to try.srx is about the same hp as my sxr with bender pipes, so why not try an angle like they are running?its not gonna hurt to try one, but it will be expensive if i have to buy 10 helixs to try.hoping someone on here would have an oem 51-45, or 52-45 that i could try.im pretty sure that would get me where i wanna be.
 
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