fine tuning clutches for 1,000 ft


im gonna pull the rivets out, and gear up.i tried a red secondary spring, and lost about 400 rpm,tried a bender purple in the primary, and lost 400 rpm.it pulled good with the purple bender spring, but it was at 8,000 rpm under target rpm.tried to wrap the red spring to 80, and clutches got hot.put everything back the way it was, and im under by 200 rpm.gonna pull the rivets, and drop one tooth on the bottom, and give it a shot!!!
 
so if im gearing up, and my rpm drops, my next thing i would try is a different primary spring to get my rpm back.right now im running a ywy 2.5 rate, and 128 total force.if rpm drops, ill try a gwg with a 2.75 rate, and 136 total force.whats your take on this?will a higher rate and total force spring be harder on the primary clutch?wear things out faster?
 
I think the green secondary is what you'll need. I'm certainly a novice when it comes to clutching. I have to picture what the components are doing in my mind. Make ONLY one change /run.
 
what concerns me the most with primary spring changes is engagement.ywy gives me 44-4500 rom engagement.i tried it with 2 shims, and was at 5000.curious to know what the gwg will do without shims, anyone know??
 
adding rivets will reduce rpm, but will they also reduce engagement?not too sure about this.id like to keep my engagement somewhere between 4400-4600.probably gonna need an aftermarket spring to accomplish this.what do you guys think?
 
sometimes i get carried away with what is to come next,but im only gonna try one thing at a time, and make one change at a time afterwards to correct rpm.i dont have any parts left to try, except the 39 bottom gear.gonna pull the rivets out to get some rpm back, and try the gear.it seems to like 8600 rpm the most.right now its at 8400.i lost 200-300 rpm by adding the 2.7 rivets.
 
And for cripes sake, get a clean sheet of paper out in the garage. Write down and make notations of every move. Don't even say you'll remember. Been there ...... Failed at that!!!! Miserably.
 
in theory, wouldnt you want to use the most clutch weight possible, and a spring to match to get the correct rpm?say i went to 4.5 rivets in the 89-l weights,and my rpm was 7800, and im using a ywy spring. i would need a spring with the same preload to keep engagement the same, but a higher rate to keep the rpm a constant all the way through the power curve right?can you see where im going with this?there are only so many choices for springs and rivets,what i would like to know is,are there any limitations on springs in a 2000 sxr primary clutch that you can use?could i run an oso in it?you never know where you might end up with a clutch setup, until you try.the sled rips now, but im hooked,i wont stop till i cant make any more improvements with the 89-l weights. they are awesome for trail and the strip.best of both worlds imho.
 
Just in case you haven't done the math your 23/40 gearing gives you around 105 mph real speed at 8500 rpm at a 1 to 1 shift out. I am guessing around 115 on the speedo. This is assuming that you have a 9 tooth 2.52 pitch driver

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ive done the math, and tested it out to boot.not too sure about 115 on the speedo being 105 real mph, guess that depends on a traction,etc.i will say this,my buddy just bought a clutch kit from hartman,and i have tried the sled,its fast, 107 on the speedo in an 1/8 mile.mine only reads 105, that is what im geared for,and he has the same gearing.i beat him by 8 lengths in 1000 ft, and was 15 lengths in an 1/8 mile.so you tell me how i can be faster, or quicker.
 
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