Fun video. I think experience played a big part in this race.
BornYamaha
Member
I love it. Beating bigger sleds is the best!
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What is the best spring to use with a 46/36 helix running heel clickers? SX Viper stock pipe.
the stock red dot Yamaha spring in a viper gives the fastest speeds, run it at 70-80 twist.
The helix will be here tomorrow, is there a good place to start off concerning the heel clicker weights? I assume 4.3 tip, 0 middle, and 3.3 or 4.3 in heel?
Heel clicker says 3.3 heel, 3.3 mid, and 3.3 tip. Problem is, I don't have enough 3.3 bolts. Thinking of running 4.3 tip and 3.3 heel. Thoughts?
4-5 grams in the heel, 3.3 in center hole, 4.3 in the tip, ((or vice versa depending on what helix you run)) stock 14.5 rollers, red primary spring, 48/34, 48/36 helix with stock red dot sec spring at 80 twist.
48/36 use the 4.3 center and 3.3 tip
48/34 use 3.3 center and 4.3 tip
48/36 use the 4.3 center and 3.3 tip
48/34 use 3.3 center and 4.3 tip
Thanks for the help. Ended up doing 3.3 tip, 3.3 mid and can only get 8,000 out of it. I had to do 3.3 (cut down. 4.3 bolt) because I didn't have the clearance. Thinking I'll remove the mid weight.
I ran it with 3.3 in the tip and 0 in the middle, it seemed to reach the 8500 range but I didn't have much time. I'm wondering why this sled doesn't like weight on the arms.
I converted it to a 136" 1.25" track, and dropped a tooth on the bottom sprocket. I can only assume that these changes are impacting this.
I converted it to a 136" 1.25" track, and dropped a tooth on the bottom sprocket. I can only assume that these changes are impacting this.
yup
dont get me wrong i love the massive holeshot with the clickers,in my srx and piped viper work well,however i have gotten cracked sheaves on the primary,not from getting hot or letting the flyweight hit the sheave but they just crack/on my stock viperi couldent drop enough weight to get it to work it otherwise hung low rpm,naked it would hit rpm but i figured why do that on a trail sled when i could use heavy hitter or stock and a fairly steep helix and get the same result,i liked the hh theirs no cracking issues and can tune same as a heelcliker,i grabbed a team spring with a close rate to a stock srx spring used the hh and used a super tourquer roller in my stock viper its not a speed demon and all i have in it is heel weight but she goes right to 8500 quickly shifts out and 0-90 in a hurry{hang t-f on} but thats about its max speed,i had a buddy pop the hood and look for pipes it pulls so hard and fast lol im lazy so when i get the chance ill put whatever weights in the heel into the tip and see what happens :P been trying t test for 2 years now and get no snow
secondary i always use the green spring on 70 wrap no matter angle multi or straight.
dont get me wrong i love the massive holeshot with the clickers,in my srx and piped viper work well,however i have gotten cracked sheaves on the primary,not from getting hot or letting the flyweight hit the sheave but they just crack/on my stock viperi couldent drop enough weight to get it to work it otherwise hung low rpm,naked it would hit rpm but i figured why do that on a trail sled when i could use heavy hitter or stock and a fairly steep helix and get the same result,i liked the hh theirs no cracking issues and can tune same as a heelcliker,i grabbed a team spring with a close rate to a stock srx spring used the hh and used a super tourquer roller in my stock viper its not a speed demon and all i have in it is heel weight but she goes right to 8500 quickly shifts out and 0-90 in a hurry{hang t-f on} but thats about its max speed,i had a buddy pop the hood and look for pipes it pulls so hard and fast lol im lazy so when i get the chance ill put whatever weights in the heel into the tip and see what happens :P been trying t test for 2 years now and get no snow
secondary i always use the green spring on 70 wrap no matter angle multi or straight.
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so cheapest bet for him since the hc act like a multi would be to use a yamaha st 45 43 or 41?or i guess im asking use them to find out a good finish angle or start angle?2nd your saying loading via the secondary-that means its holding rpm down due to helix angle?im kinda teaching myself too or should he find a multi with stock start angle and real shallow finish like 47/41 or 47/39? :P thanks for the help mr-v
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h/c weights didn't crack the clutch, its from wear and heat over time, they do this bone stock as well. Second, until you guys use the ENTIRE clutch set up your never going to come out with the desired result, helix is 50% of the combo, many get a coded helix that they don't really know the angles on. I use a Dalton helix with known angle and have had nothing but success with the helix and weight set up, watch the video and tell me its not working!* Using the wrong helix and other parts or set up results in* low on rpm, not pull weight, lower gears, etc. etc. never gonna get there doing this kind of tuning with half the stuff thinking youll get the right outcome, using a straight 47, or 45 or 41 etc.*helix and so on.
Removing weight from the arms because your using the WRONG helix which results in low rpm and so on,*is just shooting yourself in the foot..... obviously using all the parts in the correct set up mixture isn't something many will invest in to get the desired result...... I gave you the set up, you can lead a thirsty horse to water but you cant make them drink............................I wish you good luck.
Removing weight from the arms because your using the WRONG helix which results in low rpm and so on,*is just shooting yourself in the foot..... obviously using all the parts in the correct set up mixture isn't something many will invest in to get the desired result...... I gave you the set up, you can lead a thirsty horse to water but you cant make them drink............................I wish you good luck.
I'm using a Dalton helix. 46/36 with the factory spring 80 twist.
I had to drop a tooth on bottom because I installed a reverse kit and it's all I could find.
I'm going to do more testing today and will report back
I had to drop a tooth on bottom because I installed a reverse kit and it's all I could find.
I'm going to do more testing today and will report back
Did you read the HC instructions? On some vipers, using too small rollers may allow the heel to touch the sheave.
Yes, running the stock rollers. Without any mid weight I get 8500. Mrviper- I apologize if I came across wrong. I did run your recommended setup but I can't pull the rpm with it which is why I backed out the middle weight.
gearing a sled down(making gear ratio steeper ) will decrease the load on the engine, making you need MORE clutch weight to maintain rpm.
Gearing a sled up(which is what you did by your description)) will increase the load on the engine and make you run LESS weight in the front clutch to maintain rpm because the engine is loaded more. viper uses a 22/38 gear ratio stock.
no need to apologize just stating general reasons as to why it doesn't work with different guys saying things, in some and most cases its the wrong helix,( coded helixs bought used and its not really the right angles to begin with because they don't really know) wrong gears used, wrong weight set up, wrong primary spring uses the gray instead of red, etc. 14.5mm rollers work but they will be a lot more violent as far as power delivery, if you want more of a smooth sweep on your shift out 15mm or 15.6mm rollers will do that. they will also increase your rpm and need you to add more weight to the arms. It will raise your engagement speed and your shift rpm.
your geared higher so your gonna pull less weight, also you have a 136 track which is more weight/load applied because its heavier. I would drop the top sprocket 1 tooth and readjust.
Thank you again for the input. Sounds like I need rollers and a new top gear.