Clutches were not hot. I could hold my hand on them as long as I wanted.
http://heelclickerclutching.com/tech-info/pdf/HC-Yam.pdf
you obviously have issues with set up somewhere to blow belts, read the instructions and then check your machine for belt alignment and offset.
now were learning :P thats kinda what i was looking for thanks mr v and i know its a whole setup ,i was just asking for myself being a noob on clutching,guess i was asking because most guys would have bought the kit not hit rpm and still had stock 47 and stock gears in,is their a good rule of thumb when going after these 2 other parts of the setup?or what is the next step ? instead of having a pile of gears and helixes laying around to test?
when you give someone a set up they are either gonna use it as given or not, when you don't use all the parts or change the spec of the parts you DONT come up with the desired result, so, its pretty much as simple as that. I usually give 1 or 2 specific helix angles and that's it. Guys just don't want to spend the money and buy the correct one but they found a used one in a garage sale for $25 and the guy told him it was the same angle as I specified. When come to see its a coded helix from like bender,hauck,maxx perf. and nobody really knows what angle it is.
While you can and might be able to fudge a clutch set up around it with stock weights and changing springs,rivets, you wont do that so easily with a heel clicker weight set as they do not like steep finish angle helix. At least not if you want to run any amount of weight in the arms to clamp the belt. Running them empty would be a waste of time in my book, there is another thread on here and that's exactly where the guy is with a srx, so more then likely hes got the completely wrong helix, wrong gears, wrong set up from the beginning and hoping to find the magic one with none of the correct parts....
There are ways to come up to the same rpm at peak and such with 2 entirely different set ups, but 1 of the set ups will do something better or worse then the other even though they both run the correct rpm. One might be faster on topend, one might be quicker in a short run, etc. One only knows this from testing and taking notes. its these notes which allows one to make set ups he/she knows to do a certain result.
I ordered SRX rollers. Regarding the heel clicker Springs, should the unloaded heights match between the gray and the red? The red is shorter.
Batwolf
Member
This thread has been a good read for sure. I was already motivated to get my gearing and everything lined out, and this read only reinforces that even more!
Mr. Viper, you may recall having a hand in this machine, which was formerly owned by JDViper. A few friends have ridden my sled even before I've touched any of my clutching and gears up here at 9000 feet, and the GO of this sled manufactures smiles even now haha! So I can't wait to get it dialed in.
Mr. Viper, you may recall having a hand in this machine, which was formerly owned by JDViper. A few friends have ridden my sled even before I've touched any of my clutching and gears up here at 9000 feet, and the GO of this sled manufactures smiles even now haha! So I can't wait to get it dialed in.
the red and gray springs are the same length, if your red is shorter its sacked out and may be most of your problem! the red spring is 230/360lb, the gray is 230/330, so it will lower the shift rpm vs the red, both springs have the same engagement. Youd run less weight in the arms with a gray but it will shift sooner , again lowering rpm.
I almost always use the red unless in a drag only situation, with the red you can run a good amount of weight to really clamp the belt.
Thanks a lot, I had my clutches disassembled last night and figured I'd check the spring lengths when I noticed the difference. I'll order a new spring!
thanks mr v great thread,great advice ,this is a great thread for new guys to clutching getting an idea,your 100% right with the unknown helixes and gearing but most guys dont go that far, they think hc or hh in the primary is the answer to a setup all in itself when its not.but at least we know after to drop a top gear or 2 and play with all the garage sale helixes and test test test until we get desired result~thank you
I'm not doing well here. I ordered 15 mm rollers but when I went to install the pins don't fit. Do I need to replace those as well or did I get the wrong rollers?
Gotta say if it were not for bad luck, you would have NO LUCK....lol,
you must of ordered the wrong rollers, Yamaha made 2 different axle sizes, early ones are 8mm pin, later are 9mm pin..
Whats your part number you ordered??
Apparently what I got was the smaller roller. I ordered on ebay and they came in a zip lock bag. 8cr-17624-10-00 was what I thought I was getting but again who knows as no part # besides what was listed.
When my belt broke it took out one of the heel clicker plastic spacers next to the weight
I called heel clicker and they sent 6 more of theses instead:
Not sure why things are so difficult. Can I use washers to make the spacer or do I throw this kit in the garbage?
I called heel clicker and they sent 6 more of theses instead:
Not sure why things are so difficult. Can I use washers to make the spacer or do I throw this kit in the garbage?
When my belt broke it took out one of the heel clicker plastic spacers next to the weight
I called heel clicker and they sent 6 more of theses instead:
Not sure why things are so difficult. Can I use washers to make the spacer or do I throw this kit in the garbage?
yes thats what comes in the kit instead of the plastic ones
They are not thick enough. Do I use 4 per weight?
Yeah, that is a problem, had the same problem with new heelclickers, I think I used 4 stock washers instead I think, the point is to make a small gap so it can move freely. So if the gap on each side is too large, it will rattle and break.
I'm not impressed. I had a conversation with heel clicker and he was supposed to send me both the old and new style washers. Ive used a nylon washer on each weight and 2 of the metal ones I just got. My thought is at least it will be balanced.
what about using your stock Yamaha nylon washers and 1 new metal washer on each side? you want it to move freely but not a lot of side clearance for the weight to move on the pin.
That's an idea. The 2 metal washers and 1 heel clicker nylon seem pretty good. I'm going on a big trip next week for 5 days and kind of want to keep all my stock parts intact in case something fails, at least then I can swap everything over and keep riding.
I'm concerned I'm going to blow belts again. My secondary was tight with no play after installing the Dalton helix. Stock it had some room to move, I've removed 2 spacers to get it free floating again but I'm wondering if I should remove more, to allow more movement? Is to much movement bad?
2 brand new yamaha 8dn belts that have been washed and scrubbed.
2 brand new yamaha 8dn belts that have been washed and scrubbed.