SRX is dead.. opinions for next step

yup, all 4 corners....

next thing to check is the other 2 cylinders.

after you check those for damage, I would investigate the thermostat. If you let the sled "warm up" before riding it and this happened way down the trail, then usually it would tend to be the thermostat is stuck open it will never come up to temp properly and expand the cylinders. The first time you lean on the gas good and hard the piston gets hot,expands faster then the cylinder expanded for the proper side clearance.

Seen a bunch of them that the thermostat center comes off the pin in the center, holding it open, which keeps the engine ice cold for a long time.
 
mrviper700 said:
yup, all 4 corners....

next thing to check is the other 2 cylinders.

after you check those for damage, I would investigate the thermostat. If you let the sled "warm up" before riding it and this happened way down the trail, then usually it would tend to be the thermostat is stuck open it will never come up to temp properly and expand the cylinders. The first time you lean on the gas good and hard the piston gets hot,expands faster then the cylinder expanded for the proper side clearance.

Seen a bunch of them that the thermostat center comes off the pin in the center, holding it open, which keeps the engine ice cold for a long time.
Click to expand...

Interesting. So why do redhead motors easily survive without thermostats?
 
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mrviper700 said:
yup, all 4 corners....

next thing to check is the other 2 cylinders.

after you check those for damage, I would investigate the thermostat. If you let the sled "warm up" before riding it and this happened way down the trail, then usually it would tend to be the thermostat is stuck open it will never come up to temp properly and expand the cylinders. The first time you lean on the gas good and hard the piston gets hot,expands faster then the cylinder expanded for the proper side clearance.

Seen a bunch of them that the thermostat center comes off the pin in the center, holding it open, which keeps the engine ice cold for a long time.
Click to expand...
The stuck thermostats you mentioned, we're you able to repair them or did you replace? I'm wondering if my piston seizure was due to the same thing. Temp light was coming on and we kept adding snow on the running boards. When the piston seized I noticed there was no pressure on the rad hose. I called the dealer and a new thermostat is about $100 after tax. Another question I have, can I use another thermostat or an aftermarket?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
brethren said:
The stuck thermostats you mentioned, we're you able to repair them or did you replace? I'm wondering if my piston seizure was due to the same thing. Temp light was coming on and we kept adding snow on the running boards. When the piston seized I noticed there was no pressure on the rad hose. I called the dealer and a new thermostat is about $100 after tax. Another question I have, can I use another thermostat or an aftermarket?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The failure mode Mr. Viper describes is due to coolant entering the chamber that houses the expandable wax pellet which changes the calibration (opening/closing point) and also extends it's travel. All t-stats will do this eventually depending on coolant condition and cycle time. It's a rough environment.

IOW - it isn't repairable. I would take it to an auto parts store and try to match it up. The important dimensions are the opening where coolant flows, opening temp (stamped on the movable chamber), whether there is or isn't a bleed orifice with or without a check ball and overall O.D. (does it fit the t-stat housing).

They're awfully proud of them T-stats up there, eh?
 
snomofo said:
The failure mode Mr. Viper describes is due to coolant entering the chamber that houses the expandable wax pellet which changes the calibration (opening/closing point) and also extends it's travel. All t-stats will do this eventually depending on coolant condition and cycle time. It's a rough environment.

IOW - it isn't repairable. I would take it to an auto parts store and try to match it up. The important dimensions are the opening where coolant flows, opening temp (stamped on the movable chamber), whether there is or isn't a bleed orifice with or without a check ball and overall O.D. (does it fit the t-stat housing).

They're awfully proud of them T-stats up there, eh?
Click to expand...
Yes we are very proud, but not only our t-stat but any part. I tested the t-stat in 50°C water and it just starts to open so I should be okay. Oh and by the way 50°C is 122 °F, even though the rest of the world knows it as Celsius.....eh, lol.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
brethren said:
Yes we are very proud, but not only our t-stat but any part. I tested the t-stat in 50°C water and it just starts to open so I should be okay. Oh and by the way 50°C is 122 °F, even though the rest of the world knows it as Celsius.....eh, lol.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

50C sounds low unless it's stamped as such. It shouldn't begin to open until the temp it's rated at is reached +/- 4 degrees. Early to open is a sign of pellet chamber contamination (with coolant) and may lead to over extension jamming it open.
 
20170203_173701.jpg

Sounded low to me to, but I'm the original owner of the sled, so this is what came from factory.

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IMG_20170206_162913.jpg
This is the thermostat I pulled out. And doesn't actually open until 48-49°c. Could this be the cause of my failure?
 
take a pic from side is the center shaft under the little hood bent on it?
 
IMG_20170211_165735.jpg. Side view.. looks OK to me.. what else could cause a " cold seize" air in the system or anything else like that. I want to get it back on the trail this season but I don't want this to happen again and so far I have no idea why this happened
 
Hey guys.. pulled off the other 2 cylinders this morning and discovered the center piston looks like the piston in the earlier pictures but not nearly at bad still needs to be replaced.. this seems like it overheated to me. Temp light never came on.. thinking back I can't remember if it ever flashed at start up or not. Overheating caused by either air in the system or water pump failure? Just want to eliminate what caused it this time. Thank you guys
 
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