Anyone still running 500-600 twins?

That big *** ring gear will affect performance ! lol j/k
But, by looking at your primary sheave, looks like something is outta whack.
I would definitely align motor properly.
 
I almost don't want to say this with for concerns of not being believed, but our "98" XTC 500 has gone 102 mph on the speedo in dream low resistance conditions with it's current 20/39 gears. Have seen 87mph on 1,000 foot radar run, and also see 96 mph on the speedo regularly on normal very good hardpack. This sled currently has over 10,000 miles on it without a rebuild. (I know, it is on borrowed time and needs to be done), but it just doesn't get ridden that often anymore. The only mods are reed stopper, clutching , & gearing. I guess my point is that these things come geared too high from the factory and if the RPMs are dialed in correctly after regearing the top speed will not be limited by even the lower gearing than stock that I have. Judging by the difference between the speedo and radar in the 1,000 foot run a few years ago I believe my indicated 102 was really more like a real 92 to 93. (The the radar 87mph indicated 96mph). With my gearing that calculates out to about a 5% overdrive which is theoretically possible. The 96mph we see calculates out to a 1 to 1 ratio. Ours accelerates harder when the rpms are in the 7600 to 7800 range but it likes to wind out to 8000 rpm on the top. I would definitely continue to look at things other that gearing.
 
Is the Hauck headgasket identical to the 94/95 headgasket? So the model year is 1995? Or both 1994 and 1995?
 
I believe you. I've heard 110 mph on the dreamometer on a sled like mine, from two different guys, under optimal conditions.
 
I watched 2 440 Exciters go 96 & 97 mph on a half mile wet ice radar run in Wisconsin about 30 years ago. I didn't think that was possible. They were obviously modified but I could not hear any loud pipes. Almost nobody had enough gears that day. They obviously did.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
So, I achieved 140 kph on the river. with something close to stock clutching. I think the track might be a little too loose, and the gearing, WOW, I can't believe I always read it as 22/39, but the gearing is actually 23/39! Wow, that's tall, no wonder it becomes too much of a struggle for this motor. If I can find the 22 teeth gear, I'll try that.
 
Nice!

Wow 23 / 39 is stupid tall gearing when you think my brother's 600 triple came with 20 / 39 stock!

Speedo or Gps?

Was is just loose track?
 
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Speedo. Don't know, havent had the chance to tighten it yet, but I doubt it will be any faster. I can understand the triple being geared low, they spin 700 more rpm, but that was kind of too low maybe? I'm pretty sure mine will be faster with lower gearing.
 
That stock gearing is soooooo AFU ..... I cannot believe they sent it out like that. Get it down to 61 teeth total. Raising the lower to 40 would be a good thing. That would help in keeping the upper at a not such a tight bend.
In wrapping up .... try to get to 21/40. At the very least drop the 23 to a 22.
You will need more weight in your clutch weight tips.
 
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It has 18/38 which is totally insane. Overrevved like crazy pretty much all the time till I put a 50/38 or so helix and a softer prim spring. It probably is like this because it's made for slow speeds with a sleigh, hence scandinavian edition.
 
Will try to find the 22t next weekend.
Edit: Found a 22t sprocket.

Now for the chain, I have a 70 link chain on my sled, and I think I found a 68 link chain here, because this chain has 34 "units" (not sure what to call them) on it, and each has a link on each side, making it a 68?

Edit: the shop manual calls for a 70 link chain with the 22 and 39 t. But I can also try 20/38 with the 68l.

Also, how can I add more weight to the flyweights? They seem to be maxxed out, and the only profile that resembles them even remotely are the 8 bu weights. Should I try those?
 
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For adding weight to your clutch weights, add washers underneath the rivet head before you buck the rivet. Anything you can fit underneath the "buck" can be done too. If the washer is too thick .... a 3 pound mini maul tends to flatten em considerably. Use Vice-Grips and a Dremel w/ a coned grinding point to re-round the hole.
 
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