SLP Triple Pipe Install Questions, Need Pics if You Have Them

sideshowBob said:
Unless you have a very strong press a hammer is usually the tool of choice for this...old school riveting...buck and rivet. We used a bucking bar and hammer type air riveter on Float plane float repairs back in the day...and that is probably still the technique.
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It's a 20 ton, I mashed them down some more.

PXL_20250309_012434973.MP.jpg

But I also read on here someone cranked them down until they crumbled and I didn't want that either. I could take them down further, but they're aluminum.
 
Dry fit install them in the clutch without the spring and cover and ensure they move freely and their side clearance is such that they have no chance of contacting anything and if they have plenty of clearance you are good to go.
 
They passed that check, I got the other 148.3 jets in all 3 carbs, stock 45 degree helix back in, and wound up to 70 degrees per SLP's instructions. Went for a quick rip and it seemed at first like it was going to be very close at WOT, tach seemed to be in that 8700-8800 range when I'd crack on it. Then as it warmed up more it seemed to get worse. It would try to go, but lug down whereas before it wasn't lugging down. That doesn't sound like clutching to me. I had maybe 5 miles on the sled with new BR9ES plugs and the center looked a nice dark brown but the outers looked lean. Maybe I needed more time on the plugs? Hard to say, it was probably 50 degrees out so less than ideal testing conditions but the thing should have been pig rich and definitely wasn't. Before I left the garage the response off idle felt off. Oh well, maybe it's a bit loaded up? Who knows. After I spun the plugs back in, I tried snapping the throttle to WOT instead of working up to it like usual. I was met with a distinct bog. So I gave it half a choke and tried and the thing just jumped. So I'll yank the carbs tomorrow, back the fuel screws out 1/4 turn (probably won't be enough), and repeat. And get some bigger pilot jets coming sooner than later. Is there another jet I'm not tracking that I may need to screw with? I know if those fuel screws don't want to be close to 1.5 turns out that the whatever jet is too small, is that the pilot or something else I should be aware of?

Edit: per the Hammer carb tuning article, the only jets affiliated with that screw are an air jet or the pilot jets which I was planning on going up with anyway. I'd had it in my mind that pilots were mid-range more so than low end but it seems that's not the case. Needle height for the midrange and if that's off I need a different needle or nozzle which can't be had anymore.
 
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I'm having a hard time finding part numbers for 47.5 pilot jets and 150 main jets on Partzilla.


They do list the 50 pilots, and I found some 150 mains in a google search listed under the 600 but for the Phazer?

YAMAHA OEM MAIN JET - 3G2-14231-30-A0 | Partzilla.com

Buy YAMAHA OEM MAIN JET - 3G2-14231-30-A0 ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Partzilla.com
www.partzilla.com www.partzilla.com

While I should be able to ride as late as April, it's getting less convenient as the weather heats up.

Edit: Looks like they make it easy with the pilots as the size is in the part number.

YAMAHA OEM PILOT JET - 3H1-14142-47-00 | Partzilla.com

Buy YAMAHA OEM PILOT JET - 3H1-14142-47-00 ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Partzilla.com
www.partzilla.com www.partzilla.com

Can someone confirm those mains are correct? If so I'll get those, 47.5, and 50 pilot jets on the way. Thinking back, the sled was asking for a little more even single piped. I ran my friend on his 800 Storm and when I snapped the throttle from a dig it had a bog. That was the only time I'd done that this year. Response off idle is worse now, so wouldn't surprise me if I end up on the 50 pilot when it's all said and done.
 
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Thanks for confirming that, had all that in the cart and now it's on the way! In the meantime I'll turn that fuel screw out and see where that gets me.
 
Sled responded favorably to 1.75 turns out. It may want a smidge more, but the improvement was instantly noticeable. Now I'm extremely conflated: is my problem fueling or clutching?

PXL_20250312_161318870.MP~2.jpg
PXL_20250312_161350377~2.jpg

Left to right is mag, ctr, PTO. Those outers, esp PTO, look lean. This was me hitting the kill switch at WOT. When you get into it, it zings up around 8800 or so right where it needs to be and about as soon as it gets there lugs down to 8100. Obviously it doesn't sound as healthy as 8100, so I don't know if it's that or the engine is truly unhappy. If anything, compared to the last time I rode it it should be better in terms of carburetion as all 3 mains are 148.3 and the fuel screws are out 1/4 turn more. Small potatoes I know, but it's not leaner. Current temp is 32* F. I'm scared to try and dial in the clutching with it this way unless I'm misunderstanding something with plug reading. It should need any real time to build up on the plug, right? I tried this at mid throttle too and they looked better there but I didn't bother with a pic.
 
Said screw it tossed on the RX1 helix and went for a rip. Totally different machine. Would hang around 8500 or so up until 80 then the needle wanted to go past 9000 and I had to shut it down. Back in went that Bender helix. From a dig with both the RX1 and Bender helixes the thing would only tach out around 8000. If you lifted and got back in it, the Bender would tach out around 8600 and hold. I'm hoping those larger pilot jets will correct the off the line RPM issue. If you just roll into it like normal it doesn't do the 8000 RPM thing at all. Sled is otherwise good and snappy. I kinda wonder what stock weights with the RX1 helix would do, maybe I'll try that next. For now I'm trying to find some primary shims to cheat my way to 8800 with the existing setup. What's wild is the extent to which that Bender helix corrected the shift RPM being inconsistent. Even on stock clutching with the single pipe, I hadn't run the stock helix in so long I'd forgotten what the Bender piece fixed.
 

This looks like what Hammer calls out in his tuning writeup.


I think those plugs on the vid have been around for a while.

I went and watched a number of Youtube videos and it turns out the rich/lean condition is shown on the porcelain. Without cutting a plug apart you can't see it with a ton of detail, but I should have been looking DEEP down inside the porcelain instead of staring at the ground straps like I have been.
 
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