What kind of injection oil do you use????


klotz. hey gary, should I adjust my oil pump settings with klotz in my stock motor 03 viper?? thanks!
 
I got over 20,000 kms in total on a 97vmax 600 & a 98 srx 600 using castol snowmobile 2 stroke. Ya...the cheap stuff $12 bucks canadian a gallon. Power valves aren't near as gross & crusty as they were with yamahalube.
Although I like the synthetic stuff...it's just too expensive with the volumes these darn things use when you ride alot.
Note: cheap doesn't mean it doesn't work as good as needed.
 
coreysask said:
I got over 20,000 kms in total on a 97vmax 600 & a 98 srx 600 using castol snowmobile 2 stroke. Ya...the cheap stuff $12 bucks canadian a gallon. Power valves aren't near as gross & crusty as they were with yamahalube.
Although I like the synthetic stuff...it's just too expensive with the volumes these darn things use when you ride alot.
Note: cheap doesn't mean it doesn't work as good as needed.
Click to expand...
WOW!I havent heard mention of that stuff for years! My dad mixed that stuff in our old 70 Rupp Snosport and 72 440 TNT! :2strokes:
 
If you buy the KLOTZ SNOWMOBILE OIL the injection adjustment is FINE set from Yamaha... In theory, the molecular (film) strength and the viscosity are superior to Conventional oils,,,, thus leaning out the oil/fuel mixture with less oil will SAVE YOU A FEW BUCKS down the road,,, BUT THEN AGAIN, the detergent package WILL NOT WORK AS WELL with less detergents cleaning your powervalves.... Lets talk a HYPOTHETICAL SITUATION now,,,, If you could burn 10 gallons of fuel and 1 gallon of oil through your motor, your whole motor,powervalves,rings,wrist pins, main bearings and rod bearings would OUTLIVE YOU AND YOUR KIDS!!!! The SMOKE would probably KILL YOU and the PLUGS would have to be changed every 5 minutes!!!!! Lets face it,,,people do not run their sleds FULL THROTTLE all the time... There are variable conditions constantly on the trail system (ie:trees) so the 10 to 1 ratio is not a very good idea.... MY POINT BEING,,, You can ALMOST never have "too much" oil, but on the other hand,,, "too little" will hurt you VERY BADLY... Thats enough for "oil 101 today" I'm going to EAGLE RIVER to play with the sleds!!!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
I have been running Yamalube 2S since it came out...power valves stay fairly clean but since it is a synthetic blend it will glaze the cylinders and the pistons turn black about a inch down from the top of the piston. This discoloration is caused by blow-by which is lost power. This season I'm trying Legend ZX2R oil witch is a mineral based hybrid...so far the power valves are dirtier than Yamalube but no black pistons(blow-by) and seems to have more compression when pulling over to start. I will do a compression test this weekend and repost if there is any change.
 
I was a klotz lover but switched to Shell Advanced Snow Ultra Synshetic. It burns way cleaner than Klotz and my powervalves prove it. I buy it at a Bulk Shell dealer for $34.00 a gallon $CAN. Look it up an the net. Great stuff.
 
Checked my compression today....no change but did pump to maximum reading by 4 hard pulls. My check procedure is cold engine, all plugs out, throttle wide open and five hard pulls always using the same gauge (snap-on). Usually it takes all five pulls to get max readings.
 
I've been using Bluemarble for a couple years. I was concerned after reading a few threads about it regarding film strength and lack of engine protection on exhaust side. Attached is the response I recieved. Its not like I'm there greatest fan, and my knowledge of oils ( synthetic or otherwise) is very limited. Just thought I'd pass it on as a point of interest

David, I've spoken with thousands of people who've been using it for
years, and just haven't seen these types of issues yet, and when I was
in a show up in Oregon a few months ago, I had a customer come up
saying
he had just turned 6,600 miles on his Yamaha sled, and had never pulled
the powervalves out, nor has he even checked the sparkplugs. He also
went on to mention that he's still got just over 175 lbs. of
compression, which I felt was pretty darn good for that many miles on
it. When I go to shows, I typically carry around a few show and tell
parts, that I've received from some various customers over the years.
One of them is a piston out of a 65 CC KTM dirtbike. I had to really
convince the guy that I got it from, to even part with it in the first
place, as it had been winning so many races, and "if it ain't broke,
don't fix it" type of mentality. He had previously told me that he had
typically been getting 15 to 20 hours or so, on the top end of his
(son's) dirtbike, but that they've never gone more than a maximum of 25
hours on one ( not all that uncommon to hear from some of the hardcore
dirtbike guys ). Anyway, this piston has got just over 225 (+/-) hours
on it, and you can still see casting rings in the piston skirt of it,
showing very, very little if any at all wear in it. The bottom of the
piston skirts are even nice and square cut, not rounded off, which
sometimes happens from the way they go back and forth, side to side in
a
cylinder. As to the film strength not being strong enough, we've
tested
our technology as far as load testing goes, even back from the earlier
years, before we were the current company that we are, under new
ownershp dating back to Dec. 2003, when we became a new company called
Envirofuels LP. Back in years past we had tested our core chemisty in
professional load testing equipment, and found it to be capable of
carrying a raw load pressure of up to excess of 260,000 PSI. Whereas
most non syntetic oils, will carry a raw load pressure rating of
between
3,500 to 4,500 PSI. Typical synthetics take it up to typically between
10,000 up to 12,000 PSI. All of this, when our core chemisty is
capable
of carrying loads up to or to exceed 260,000 lbs., a far cry from what
any synthetic on the market will do. Personally, over the 12 years or
so of working with this amazing technology, I've heard close to 3 to 4
dozen cases, where someone should have burnt down an engine, beyond
recognition, whether it be through negligence, accident, stupidity or
just plain whatever reason, that they didn't. Some have had minor
damage, some have had no damage, which really surprised everyone who
saw
and heard of the particular situation, saying, "No way, that couldn't
have done that, or gone through that, and come out looking like this,
or
with that little if any damage. So, there's a lot to be said about it,
that most don't even know about yet. I recently heard that Dale Cutler
(Cutler's Performance / CTC Performance ) Supposedly one of the
biggest,
baddest Arctic Cat builders in the world today, told a customer, who
told us at last weekend's World Snowmobile Derby, in Eagle River, WI,
that "Gee, do you know what Cutler's saying about your oil now....? I
said no, I didn't. He said Dale told him that in order for him to
stand
behind one of his engines, it MUST BE RUNNING BLUE MARBLE OIL,
period!!!
I don't know that for positive truth at this point, as I haven't spoken
with Dale Cutler about it, but it wouldn't surprise me at all.

Anyway, if you've got any further questions, or anything, please don't
hesitate to contact me directly.

Sincerely,

Jeff Waugh

National Sales Director
Envirofuels LP
(713) 821-9639
(918) 296-0669
(918) 619-3043 Mobile
 
good write up from the guy. But the first thought I have was the part about "never checked his plugs" well thats ok, but how did he do the comp test without taking out the plugs lol! just got a chuckle there :)
 
We have used Klotz in our snowmobiling family since the early 70's when Yamaha was one of the only sleds with oil injection. Klotz seemed to work the best as no one back then really made an oil for injection. We fouled far fewer plugs and it seemed to flow well through the injector system.
We are still using it today and having good luck with it. 8 Yamaha sleds currently in the "family".

$22.00 a gallon is an easy price to pay for a full synthetic oil like Klotz...

Rick
 
SRXSex said:
I was a klotz lover but switched to Shell Advanced Snow Ultra Synshetic. It burns way cleaner than Klotz and my powervalves prove it. I buy it at a Bulk Shell dealer for $34.00 a gallon $CAN. Look it up an the net. Great stuff.
Click to expand...
Its great stuff ! ;)!
 
Klotzlubemn said:
We have used Klotz in our snowmobiling family since the early 70's when Yamaha was one of the only sleds with oil injection. Klotz seemed to work the best as no one back then really made an oil for injection. We fouled far fewer plugs and it seemed to flow well through the injector system.
We are still using it today and having good luck with it. 8 Yamaha sleds currently in the "family".

$22.00 a gallon is an easy price to pay for a full synthetic oil like Klotz...

Rick
Click to expand...


sounds like a good price, I pay 41.20 a galon!
 
Klotzlubemn said:
We have used Klotz in our snowmobiling family since the early 70's when Yamaha was one of the only sleds with oil injection. Klotz seemed to work the best as no one back then really made an oil for injection. We fouled far fewer plugs and it seemed to flow well through the injector system.
We are still using it today and having good luck with it. 8 Yamaha sleds currently in the "family".

$22.00 a gallon is an easy price to pay for a full synthetic oil like Klotz...

Rick
Click to expand...


where are you buying klotz full synthetic for 22 bucks a gallon??

i am running royal purple snow 2c full synthetic and get it for 23 bucks a gallon but have to buy a case (4 gallons) at a time.
i have a buddy that works for napa and i buy the stuff from him at napas cost
 
I sell it for 22.00 per gallon plus shipping.
Shipping roughly runs 5-7 dollars a gallon, depending on where it is getting shipped.
I will ship you 1 gallon or 101 gallons, what ever you need.

It is good oil....Send me an email and I can get you shipping info if you need.

Rick
Klotzlubemn@aol.com
 
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