Mac
Member
Credibility points?
Nosboy - I am removing half of your credibility points earned here at TY.
Nosboy - I am removing half of your credibility points earned here at TY.
nosboy said:
It depends how the chassis is braced and welded. If it is done rite the tubing will not crack. Welding molly is a little tricky, everything must be very clean and holes have to be drilled in the tube to let pressure out or the weld will spit back and blow out. The suspention i'm useing is a soft setup for street driving and will not stress the chassis. The reason I went with moly is its 1/2 the waight of mild steel and twice as strong. The car all done with Big Block, glass front end, and doors should waigh 2300lbs. With the 598ci engine that I will be building and a 400HP shot it should go low 8's Maybe high 7's. Now if only I could get my sled to go that fast!!! Oh well, I don't have the money for both so the Viper will have to stay stock for now.
I'm still trying to get into the nines with a 440 motor!!!! it CAN BE DONE ( I hope).. i put indy heads on it and a really nice crane 688821 solid roller cam and she's breathing pretty well!! the car weighs 3220 WITHOUT the driver (240lbs) and BOTH could withstand to DROP A FEW POUNDS!!! I think it was just a fluke that I ran a 10.25 @134MPH.. The weather was around 50 outside and low humidity!!!(around 60%).. I shifted a little early (around 6200)and cut a really good light!!! I got my eye on a callies crank (stroker) and a nice set of rods.. I get into snowmobile mode and the race car sits in the trailer until springtime.. i also have a 73 cuda show car that could use a cam and lifters (340 4 speed).. You get me talking about the racecar and the cuda and my head goes into the MOPAR books!!! I wish we wouldn't talk about racecars NOW!!!! I got a few extra bucks for my S/O's christmas present.. i wonder what she will say if I bring her a CALLIES CRANKSHAFT for christmas???? One of these days IF I EVER GROW UP,, I'd like to make a car like YOUR doing!!! the only problem is, I live in Chicago, and you couldn't drive that around my neighborhood!!!! Some gang banger would stick you up and he would be driving all his homeboys around in it!!!! So I suppose it would be a racecar.. REMEMBER the pold saying "REAL RACECARS do NOT HAVE DOORS"!!! gary Oles nosboy
Gary, I was a technical advisor for Summit racing equipment for 7 years, give me a parts description of your engine and we might be able to get you doing better yet without replacing the crankshaft. Doesnt sound like a overly heavy car.
JERSEYJOE
Member
Cylinders
What Have I Done Here Except Stir Up A Hornet's Nest. I'll Leave The Cylinders Alone They Look Fine
What Have I Done Here Except Stir Up A Hornet's Nest. I'll Leave The Cylinders Alone They Look Fine
I'll take WHATEVER suggestions you have.. i have a 440 .030 over with 12 1/2 to 1 pistons.. stock crank and sportsman mopar rods.. its a muscle motors shortblock. The heads are indy 440-1 kit with the optional 325cc cnc job.. I have a holley dominator 1050 carb.. crane 688821 cam with roller lifters and tti headers. i also have a 1969 440 block .030 over that i want to make a 535 stroker motor out of BUT i need to get the BIG heads from indy because the lift is around 630 with the crane cam.. i want to get a lunati stroker motor cam and a jesel belt drive timing chain for the stroker motor.. the lunati is around 719 lift and i have to put different valve springs to make the indy heads I got work!!! Thats why I need another set of indy heads!!! The weight thing I can correct with lexan windows,,,but,,, the interior is STAINLESS instead of aluminum and the firewall is also stainless (bought it that way) so,,, i could do some major cosmetic work in the interior BUT,, I'd rather spend a zillion dollars with a callies crank and a set of BEAUTIFUL rods>>>> any suggestions???? Thanks Gary Oles nosboy
If I had a STRONG enough bottom end (crossbolted mains and FILLED BLOCK) Maybe,,,just MAYBE I would spray it and look for 1000 HP!!!! The CHASSIS is NHRA cretified up to 8.50 SO HERE WE GO AGAIN????????
what intake manifold?
what ignition system?
how big are the header tubes and collectors?
what trans and if auto what convertor?
what rear axle gear and tire size?
what kind of average 60 ft times are you running?
here is the car I had when I worked at Summit, drove it on the street all the time. Heck, I even got married in it, when we left the church I dumped the transbrake and did a wheelie outta there.....LOL!!!
what ignition system?
how big are the header tubes and collectors?
what trans and if auto what convertor?
what rear axle gear and tire size?
what kind of average 60 ft times are you running?
here is the car I had when I worked at Summit, drove it on the street all the time. Heck, I even got married in it, when we left the church I dumped the transbrake and did a wheelie outta there.....LOL!!!
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Junior
New member
that's alot of lift man. What kinda rocker studs are you using that don't pull out with that kind of force? or does the cam just run shallower ramp angles to make up for it?
actually thats not giant, I had a small block chevy 406 that used a 680/712 lift solid roller cam. The ramp angles have nothing to do with the studs pulling out, the ramp angles on any roller cam are steep, thats how they make power the rapid opening and closing of the valves. the studs used in any hi perf head are screw in, 3/8-7/16" depending on the application. You also run a stud girdle with a bigger roller to distribute the load and keep the studs from flexing.
heres a giant....LOL, how about a .773/.825 lift with 293/288 degrees @.050"on a 104 lobe center....thats a big momma!! you need some serious cylinder heads to flow that camshaft!!!
Mac
Member
Can you here me now????
Joe, No one can here You now. Hope c y l i n d e r s look ok. Hope you didnt run that 100 grit cylinder hone through your motor. We all know the four stroke revolution has started. All this hugging and kissing is making me sick.
Joe, No one can here You now. Hope c y l i n d e r s look ok. Hope you didnt run that 100 grit cylinder hone through your motor. We all know the four stroke revolution has started. All this hugging and kissing is making me sick.
I hope he didn't too!!!! Nic cylinders on my topend jobs get a very light hone, since the dirtbike motors I've done from the early 90's.
Junior
New member
yea I've heard of LS1's running more than 1" of lift lately, that's just insanity, gotta have some wicked valve springs to snap that valve back fast enough.
As far as ramp rates, I was thinking that if it's a real steep ramp rate you're gonna need a hell of a spring to snap the valve back before you get piston contact. shallower ramp angle and you'd be able to get away with a softer spring and would be less prone to yanking out a stud. I guess with a 7/16th stud of the right steel tho you can still support 11000lbs from it, provided you've got decent thread engagement. That's alot of G, even for a big valve like those.
As far as ramp rates, I was thinking that if it's a real steep ramp rate you're gonna need a hell of a spring to snap the valve back before you get piston contact. shallower ramp angle and you'd be able to get away with a softer spring and would be less prone to yanking out a stud. I guess with a 7/16th stud of the right steel tho you can still support 11000lbs from it, provided you've got decent thread engagement. That's alot of G, even for a big valve like those.
The ignition is an MSD, the AUTO trans convertor is 8 inch (5000 stall), trans brake, indy intake manifold that came with the 440-1 kit..4.56 gear (used to be a 4.8
spool, 33 1/2 X 14 X15 goodyear Eagles and my 60 foots SUCK really bad!!! The cam lift is 420 and the rockers are 1.5 to 1 so the lift at the valve is 630.... ALL the rockers are on a common shaft (MOPAR) and the rockers are adjustable. The pushrods are a MOTHER****** trying to make the right size to fit.. the intake pushrods are on a 11 degree angle and you have to make them .050 longer than the exhaust pushrods!!! (BIG INTAkE PORTS!!!) You usually have all kinds of pushrod problems when you first put the head kit on,,, indy doesnt tell you that!!!The 60 foots are like 1.87's????????????????? The best was in the 1.60's???? it should be around 1.27's ????????????????????????????
spool, 33 1/2 X 14 X15 goodyear Eagles and my 60 foots SUCK really bad!!! The cam lift is 420 and the rockers are 1.5 to 1 so the lift at the valve is 630.... ALL the rockers are on a common shaft (MOPAR) and the rockers are adjustable. The pushrods are a MOTHER****** trying to make the right size to fit.. the intake pushrods are on a 11 degree angle and you have to make them .050 longer than the exhaust pushrods!!! (BIG INTAkE PORTS!!!) You usually have all kinds of pushrod problems when you first put the head kit on,,, indy doesnt tell you that!!!The 60 foots are like 1.87's????????????????? The best was in the 1.60's???? it should be around 1.27's ????????????????????????????
I gotta do a gantt chart on MICROSOFT project today ( I HATE that program). So, I'll be around the computer today!!! Well talk!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
A 1.27 60 foot you should be low 9's. My Camaro went 9.60 at 140mph with a 60 foot of 1.30-1.32 carrying the front wheels an inch off the ground for 25 feet. 30 over 427, seven something lift roller, can't remember, brodix heads un ported out of the box, 850 carb, 12.5-1 compression, glide with 5500 converter. T-brake 456 gear 32'' tire. Shifted at 7500 and went though at I think 7300. I really miss that car, What a blast.
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I shifted that motor around 6500 and blew 2 rods out the sides of the block!!!! I'm not doing something right!!!
You guys and your race talking. LOL We just switched back to cast heads from aluminum on or Mod, only reason is the flow better. The first time I heard of a stud girdle, witout seeing it, I had some freaky pictures in my head. Maxdlx
daman
New member
boy did this thread go off topic,i've done 3 sets of cyls. two i honed with a 3 stone spring flex(280)
and the last one we just put her together, all sealed just fine no
problems.
i agree with MV7 a 240 - 280 hone is what should be used people..
but not necessary.