ExpertXViper
New member
daman said:
Confused......... Wouldnt kicking it up to 20mm really be kicking it down, leaning the oil mixture or I'm I missing something????
Sheermadness03
New member
It scares the HELL out of me, with 2800 miles on my 03 and never had any troubles. I'm heading to the UP Wednesday night and plan on going to Paradise by way of Newberry just as these guys did. I do have a direct oil injection kit from Bender installed on mine, I sure hope that makes a difference if oiling was thier trouble. Hope to post some pics next week after we return. -Ed
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daman
New member
No smaller the gap more oil, pulls the pump open more..ExpertXViper said:
daman
New member
Ed whats the differance bettween Benders and OEM yammie pump??Sheermadness03 said:
ExpertXViper
New member
daman said:
Thanks for clearing that up, 21mm it is then. This whole oil injection deal is all new to me, used to all premix stuff. I actually feel more comfortable running premix cause if something goes wrong theres one place to point the finger. Maybe next year I'll convert over.
daman
New member
I would do 20 and see what happens,it's easy to do under 5 mins.ExpertXViper said:
you know where to measure right??
03viperguy
Moderator
I have over 6500 on mine and (knock on wood) never had any issues. runs fan-freakin-tastic 
sorry to hear about so much bad luck this year! its crazy!
sorry to hear about so much bad luck this year! its crazy!ExpertXViper
New member
daman said:
Yea that I do know cause of my manual, but is doesnt say anything about more gap the leaner or less gap the richer. I just assumed, but wasnt 100% sure, which is why I asked. So thanks again
daman
New member
No it don't really say,ExpertXViper said:
,, no problem...
No engine or clutch mods here either. S2 Yamalube from day one. Seizing my motor with 7,000 miles is not as painful as it has to be at 2,500. My friend had a crank bearing failure last March on his 02 Polaris 600 XC SP with 2,400 miles on it. Regardless of what you ride, there does seem to be a bunch of crank failures lately. In some strange way I kind of feel lucky. G.B.
03viperguy
Moderator
I think a lot of crank failures comes from a few low snow years. let me explain......... you dont get many miles in on your sled. maybe you spend some time over the summer looking at it and drooling...eventually you go pull the rope to hear it run. you shut it off before it gets real nice and warm, and walk away happy to smell like you went riding and you got to hear the sled. the sled cools, gets condensation, and the bearings get a little rust. after a few low snow years you have done this a few times and now the crank lets go when we get snow and you finally get some miles. I dont think this is the ONLY reason for these failures, just a good and probable cause for a lot of them. either way it sucks and I am sorry to hear it loL!
Sheermadness03
New member
daman said:
The pump is the same, fact is you use the stock pump. Just don't mix oil with fuel at the fuel pump (stock set up). Drill and install barbs on each carb (outlet side), then go direct from oil pump thru barbs into cylinder's. Install a rubber cap on fuel pump where the oil line was. This allows for the engine to get the correct amount of oil at all times. Especially works well for when coming off tight twisty trails (slower speeds) to a long stright strech (opening 'er up), no delay for correct amount of oil to get to engine through the fuel pump. -Ed
yamaholic22
Active member
03viperguy said:
I COMPLETELY AGREE, and have stated this as a problem numerous times. If they are going to be run in summer (which in all reality they should not be), they need to be warmed up FULLY so that all the condensation is exhausted at a high enough temperature so that it doesn't not condensate inside the engine. Sleds should be fogged very well before summer storage and not started all summer to really have safe crank bearings.
Mine had all most 4k miles on it when it went. Let a friend take it to UP. Came back blown! 700 miles previous I put JAWS pipes and a 136 1.25 under it. I felt it more than proved itself. Still confused as to why the bearing went up in smoke. Oil sounds like the problem. Maintenance is key to me and the previous owner was suposedly more anal than me. I fogged and presume he did also. I just bought another 02 viper with 424 original miles and never fogged. Heck, hasn't been registered in 3 years! I know this is harder on things than with mile and being rode every year, but it is pretty cherry and runs like a top. We'll see how it turns out. My jetting was above and way beyond rich according to JAWs spec, even talked to manufacturer himself. I'm cranking my oil pump open! Thanks for the input and looking forward to more!
Oh yeah, ran yamalube and had srx cooler since day 1.
Mtnviper
Member
03viperguy said:
03viperguy has hit the nail on the head. Water/rust is the number 1 killer of cranks/bearings. It only takes a small amount of rust/pitting to cause the ball or roller bearing to hang, then its game over.
Crank bearings can survive with very little oil. Its the sliding parts that will take the hit (piston scuffing) when there is a lack of oil.
Pistons for the most part are less effected by moisture, (no rusting on aluminum).
So when you see a motor go down on the bottom end but the top end looks ok, moisture, a bad crank seal, or a poorly designed bottom end (early Polaris 800) is the likely culprit.
If the top end fails, but the lower end is ok. Possible causes are lean jetting, bad gas (detonation), lack of oil, cold siezure, or just plain overheating.
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Sheermadness03 said:
Sheer,
Were can I find out more info on the Bender oil pump set up now that Bender is under new ownership? I am righting this year off and I am not racing to put my motor back together. Since I have my sled apart, I am looking for other mods that make sense. A rear cooler for starters. Thanks, G.B.
daman
New member
Is see,right like the old PZ's, SRV's ,exciters were like that i think thatsSheermadness03 said:
a better set up because your geting the right amount of oil at the right
time..
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daman
New member
Yes thats why i NEVER start my sleds in the summer they get fogged03viperguy said:
then they don't get started till the day i drive 'em outa the garage
for the first ride of the season....
03viperguy
Moderator
wow, I guess I am the hero of the day lol!! thanks for the support guys 
I usually run my sled out of gas (siphon as much as I can then just let it run out) and I figure that the oil pump keeps pumping and floods the motor with oil for SOME rust protection. fogging is still the best route
I usually run my sled out of gas (siphon as much as I can then just let it run out) and I figure that the oil pump keeps pumping and floods the motor with oil for SOME rust protection. fogging is still the best route