blown @2500

your right, it shouldnt hurt. just dont go too far. remember that more oil means lean on the gas end of things...
 
daman said:
Good luck to both you guy's, and up your pumps when you get 'em back
together..
Click to expand...

Thanks! I think I will crank up my pump a little. It never has used much oil. It wont bother me using more oil as I only pay $16 a gallon which is about half of what my buddies pay for AC and POO oil. I am curious how to check my oil pump to see if it operating the way it should. My Yamaha shop manual only mentions how to adjust the cable. I will have to dig into it more next week when I hope to have time to take the case a part and look at the crank. G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
I am curious how to check my oil pump to see if it operating the way it should.
Click to expand...

you can top off your oil tank then go for a ride then retop and see how
many miles you put on using that amount of oil..
 
daman said:
you can top off your oil tank then go for a ride then retop and see how
many miles you put on using that amount of oil..
Click to expand...

I realize that. I think it used approx. 1/2 quart in 120 miles the day before it seized. I was looking to see if there was anything I could check on the oil pump while I have the motor apart. G.B.
 
Gone Blue said:
I realize that. I think it used approx. 1/2 quart in 120 miles the day before it seized. I was looking to see if there was anything I could check on the oil pump while I have the motor apart. G.B.
Click to expand...
Ok i see lol,,dunno

not sure on the ratio but that don't seem like much used??
 
Got 6000mi on mine,no problems besides stator.Never been fogged from new.
Both sleds started up till warm every 3-4 weeks off season.I use Opti II oil,runs clean,
but I'm thinkin of bumping up my oil up to be safe.
 
Guys, just go with the factory spec on the oil pump setting. Setting the gap smaller than spec causes the oil mixture to increase earlier in the throttle range, which as someone mentioned above effectively leans out the fuel mixture. You do not want to lean out the Viper motor too much in the mid range where this situation occurs due to the 3D timing graph. This is a case where backyard engineering is quite flawed.
 
As an engineer, the "theory" of fogging and not starting up a sled during the off season makes sense, but maybe it is flawed. Maybe having a sled sit idle for 9 months is too long in some circumstances. Doing a poll on this site would be very interested, those who fog vs. those who dont, and who has burned down.

I have had 5 Yamahas since 1990 withover 25K miles on them in total, and have never fogged, just let them run for awhile every 2 months during the offseason, and drain the old fuel in December. Am I just lucky???????
1988 Phazer
1990 Phazer
1994 Vmax600
1997 700sx
2002 SRX

Mark
 
@Ding,

I dissagree...look back at the old vmaxs(94-96) and see how much they used
people were always complaining on how much oil they used and never
a problem, a little more oil will hurt NOTHING.....

never heard of any crank problems back then eather..
 
Last edited:
yes, but they also used a LOT of gas as well........ the pump flows a certain amount of fluid, if there is more oil than gas then it will have a lean gas mixture. knowing an engineer and talking to a few guys that race and they also know this to be true.
 
03viperguy said:
yes, but they also used a LOT of gas as well........ the pump flows a certain amount of fluid, if there is more oil than gas then it will have a lean gas mixture. knowing an engineer and talking to a few guys that race and they also know this to be true.
Click to expand...

mine are great on fuel...10-12

i agee you don't want to OVER do it, i'm talking a LITTLE more, not qt's more here!!!
 
Viper motor issue's!

Hi Guys. So far I have 5000 miles on my 03 viper no issue's. I have been running shell sythetic oil since new though. Ran that same oil in my father's polaris and he has over 12000 miles no issue's. Hoping the yamaha makes it that far.
 
Just trying to help with accurate technically proven information. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions.

Good luck whatever you choose to do.
 
Ding said:
Just trying to help with accurate technically proven information. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions.

Good luck whatever you choose to do.
Click to expand...

well said, I agree completely! good luck either way :)
 
I suppose this is not the time to throw "high quality fuel" in the discussions huh??

It would be interesting to hear what fuels where in those sleds.

Last year I experienced a crank failure just like these posted here, 1st ride of the season, etc. on a bone stock, never beaten well maintaned motor, 2500 miles & in the "post mortem examination" it was due to "moisture in the ethanol" & also the "solvent characteristics" of ethanol. Rust on one set of needle bearings on the mag side crank. Hmmm? Storage procedures were the same as I have done for 20+ years.. the only change was fuel supply..Hmmm??

I know there will be the arguements that the ethanol is good...yada...
but, I think the quality has diminished a BUNCH & we are seeing the results of it now.

Could be wrong..but I am HIGHLY suspect of our fuel quality & supply.
Too damn many problems across the board in the 2 stroke community & small engine community to not consider this as a possible cause.

Just my silly humble opinion..!! ;)!

Good luck on the rebuilds!!

Rob
 
storage

I am a firm believer that the conditions of where the sled is stored plays a huge roll. I take those small desicant cartrides and place them inside the engine compartment and close the hood. You'd be amazed how much water is consumed by these in a short period.........

I only store my sled in my garage and avoid trailers where there is a lot of moisture.

If your the anal type, put the sled in the shed and run a dehumidifer. : )


Mark
 
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