HC's and Helix's

pro i didn't know the advant edge was so far off. maybe that's why my holeshot is no good actually too steep to start and too steep through the middle and at the end. guess i should look for more like 50/40 dalton like Don said. do you know if the dalton helixes are pretty close to what they say? i guess if you do all your tuning with one brand of helix then your changes shoud be relative to that brand and make sense.
 

I use dalton and micro belmont sand they are just about identical.I been going to all micro's latealy because there 85.00 and dalton are 120.00.Mcr belmont has excllent service and you usally have it in two days standard shipping.Yes listen to Don if he ported your enginene he know's what works with his stuff.He's doing an engine for me also right now.
 
Micro Belmont out of GR Michigan? I didn't even think they were on the map... Everytime I am in there they are strictly wrenching on Cat's. great customer service, Gary will bend over backwards for ya. I had no idea they made their own helix's
 
Last edited:
mrviper I do intend on testing and writing things down like I did with the 8DN-20's.Basically I would like to have a reference point and go from there.Don't wanna end up purchasing a dozen different helix's.I think my starting point will be a 50/36 helix and see what happens.Thanks for your input ,can't do any testing until at least 7 months from now anyways.I know there is no quick formula that works for all,I'll learn on my own.Takes time and like you said money to.
 
got my heelclicker kit today,looks interesting.But the springs they give for the primary look long.Will they fit in the clutch or what?Got a red and a gray spring.
 
The plastic washers go where the stock Yammie washers go between the weight & the clutch. they are allmost exactly twice as thick. Use em!!!! Use the red primary spring. It is probably twice as long as a stock yammie spring. I use a threaded rod to compress the spring & be very careful not to F up the primary cover bushing putting the cover back on.
 
Thanks Turk.I read in the instructions that they recommend a 50/40 Helix,I am thinking that is not shallow enough,unless engine has a big bore and more horse's.I need to find a 50/36 or 50/38 possibly,I know you said 50/38 would be a good starting point.Would 50/36 helix end up giving better top end?
 
Yes I think I'll find a longer threaded rod to use to compress that spring.Boy there sure will be some pressures to overcome here eh!.Will try first with 6 grams tip and 4.3 g heel.Middle empty.Got to wait for the damn snow again....6 months to go...ahhhh!
 
I use three longer bolts that will take the cover in enough to accept the right ones.Hard to find the right lenth mind you.I think 2 1/2
 
man ,you think something would break with all that extra pressure against the cover.I guess the primary cover plate can handle that extra pressure and the 6 bolts to.I think I would use a threaded rod before I try longer bolts to pull cover.You could put weird pressure on the cover plate trying to pull it in with 3 longer bolts,twisting it and cracking it if you don`t tighen them bolts equally.I`would be afraid of causing a hairline crack near the mounting part where the bolts go thru.
 
Sounds scary does it!!Well it works with a ratchet wrench the bolts have to be the right lenth and will pull the cover so you can put three more in with bushings on them to git them to the location that the origanal ones will take over.Yes you have to put it on straight and take your time but it does work.They are one big muther of a spring arnt they.I used to use the treaded rod but had the clutch pop off before.Maybie i am strange what do you think lol call a doctor??
 
I had the best luck using a helix with a 10-12 degree spread even with my turbo rx-1.
 
Made this one for about $5. You can weld a small crank handle to the upper nut to crank it down & it really works slick.
 

Attachments

  • tool (Small).jpg
    tool (Small).jpg
    49 KB · Views: 8
Ah yes the red heelclicker spring!!!

One of the reasons I sold my Heel Clickers was because of the concern I had regarding the spring pressure at zero RPM (never mind at 8500). I've never heard of clutch blowing up because of it but it concerned me so I thought I'd stick to the Yamaha weights. Makes you wonder though....

I would NOT recommend you using the cover bolts to pull that thing down though. What Turk suggested is the way I did it. 1/2" threaded rod would work too.
 
Ok, Here is what i have notice.

I have tested HC set in my BB (144") SRX. I have very short gearing so maybe this is why my sled worked better with 50/42 @ 70/green than 50/40 @ 60/green. I test it against another sled (800 summit p-tek)

In weights i have 4.8g/7g
 
This is why I like this site,lot of helpfull people on here who like sharing their experiences.Thanks there Turk for that pic,you really shouldn't have...LOL.
Have you ever heard of a clutch breaking apart because of the spring Turk.I am sure many people run this application without a problem,otherwise they wouldn't use them.Come on Exciterfan you scared of a little explosion there.LOL.What about your SXR skid..let me know how much,keep it civil..still wanna put in a 8" wheel kit which would be an easy $500 at least.
 
You will only have probs if you blow a belt; then you at least need to replace a primary clutch; probably a secondary clutch & maybe some body aparts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top