HC's and Helix's


I would love to see an electron microscope image of the clutch cover with the red heelclicker spring in it, as it goes from 0 - 8500 RPM. It would probably show the increased stress on the primary cover, weight pivot points etc. Good thing it's a Yamaha part.

As far as seeing things blow up. I'd like to avoid that. My left foot well is still dented in from blowing my belt last season(March/06) can't imagine what it would look like under the hood if the primary decided to let go and take the secondary with it!!!

Turk's set up with the 89L weights is just awsome. I don't need heelclickers.
 
Exciterfan said:
I would love to see an electron microscope image of the clutch cover with the red heelclicker spring in it, as it goes from 0 - 8500 RPM. It would probably show the increased stress on the primary cover, weight pivot points etc. Good thing it's a Yamaha part.
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yamaha make most things with great quality but i got to say i would not stand up for their primary clutch. we have all seen to many blow apart.
 
I have had no problems at all with my heelclickers and I've put over 2000 km on the sled with them. I could definately see though the primary cover having problems because that red heelclicker spring is definately stiff. When i first got them I didnt know how I was going to get it compressed and on there lol.
 
daman said:
If this spring is that stiff what kind of engagement are you guy's seeing?
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Daman you can easily get the engagement down on the heelclickers because you can add weight directly to the heel so that it virtually only affects engagement. And heel clickers have A LOT of low end belt force due to their extremely aggressive profile.
 
I found the stock dn s work pretty good with the holes drilled out to take the hc nut and bolt and you can run a normal spring for lake and trail running.
 
yamaholic22 said:
Daman you can easily get the engagement down on the heelclickers because you can add weight directly to the heel so that it virtually only affects engagement. And heel clickers have A LOT of low end belt force due to their extremely aggressive profile.
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I see....
 
working on clutch

well I am playing around with my clutch tonight.I guess I can set it up high or low in the grams and see what happens this winter and adjust.If I go on the higher side for gram weight,I'll put 7 grams in the tip and 4.8 grams in the heel.I will be using a 51/38 Dalton Helix perhaps wrapped at 70.
Now the 7 grams in tip is max you can go.The bolt head is basically right against the side of the wall where the rollers are mounted,but it does not bind and there is a micro amount of play factor there anyways.So it should be fine.Some guys go and grind some material of the bolt head,but I'd rather not.
And in the heel end,if you push the washers to the outside while you tighten the bolt,the roller will not touch the washers at full engagement.Again some guys go and grinds some washers,I'd rather not.
The only place I will take some material off is at the point where the heel,actually one washer touches the moveable sheave when fully engaged.It is a very fine amount,but has to be done,otherwise the weight will not fully open and be against the roller at full engagement.
So once this set-up is run,I'll know better what my rpm's will be at engagement and WOT.Hoefully I'll be very very close with just minor adjustments.Want to ride more then just spending time wrenching next season.
 
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Again,my main concern is when I put 7grams in the tip of the HC's,there is no reason to grind the bolt head abit.The weight will still swing out with no major binding or sticking.The head of the bolt just cruises by the side of the movable sheave cavity.There is a little play in the weight off the mounting bolt anyways to not effect the weight from shifting out.What you think?
 
The mass in the tip will sometimes come in contact with the spider & stick the clutch 1/2 open if it,s a close fit. Even tho it may clear with the clutch off the sled it is different when it,s spinning at 8500 rpm.
 
Well I guess Turk that I will be grinding a little off each bolt head to stop that from ever happening.By the looks of it,if I lift the weight over by hand past the roller and out,then butt it up from the top back down.....the bolt is touching the side at least a good 1/16".That is an amount to be taken off on a grinder.Does this seem about the right amount then?
 
It's that time to get her done.

Well got to get the clutching set up very soon.With the HC's,I will be using a 51/38 Dalton Helix.What would be a decent wrap to start with.I should use a green secondary spring wrapped at what:: 60..70 or 80.
So I will be setting up the HC's as follows:4-5 grams heel and 6.3 grams tip.I still will have to grind some material off the bolt head so nothing hits the side.And will grind some material off where the heel could touch the sheave when fully engaged.Have the 2002 SRX jetted as the 2001 SRX's to(150-148.8-148.8) .Put in 40 pilot jets also .Got my fuel screws at 1.25 out from seated.Clip position is stock at 3.My gearing will be left at stock..23/38.
Maybe Turk ..you can tell me if this is a proper starting point,since I have never worked with HC's before.
 
YOU HAVE CORRECT HELIX, (want to sell LOL) !! ANYWAYS START AT 80 WRAP, I THINK YOUR STARTING OF REALLY LOADED AT TIP BUT YOU VERY EASY CAN WORK BACK. YOUR GEARING IS CORRECT, YOUR JETTING IS CORRECT OF CORSE USE RED CLICKER SPRING. THESE GUYS HERE WILL GET YA CLOSE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Turk said:
The mass in the tip will sometimes come in contact with the spider & stick the clutch 1/2 open if it,s a close fit. Even tho it may clear with the clutch off the sled it is different when it,s spinning at 8500 rpm.
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Is this common with all yamaha clutches and heel clickers?
 
I HAD NO ISSUES WITH MY 00 SRX. EVERYTHING DROPED IN LIKE A GLOVE. I DID SEE SOME ISSUES WHEN I INSTALLED THEM ON MY VMAX 800 THOUGH. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
I HAD NO ISSUES WITH MY 00 SRX. EVERYTHING DROPED IN LIKE A GLOVE. I DID SEE SOME ISSUES WHEN I INSTALLED THEM ON MY VMAX 800 THOUGH. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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what kind of issues and what year is the vmax, is it a 95,96 or is it a 97 w pro-action and how did you find they worked in it compared to using them in the srx?
 
I suppose I could drop a little at the tip there YAMMIEGOD 3:16.All depends on the rpm at WOT.From there I could go 6 grams or 5.3 grams which are my next 2 combo's.I know loading up the tip will give you the best MPH,but having said that,I will also be looking to get a true blue 8500 rpm's at WOT.THAT IS MY OBJECTIVE.Having the SRX running at 8500 and still be pulling is where it should be.Can't wait to have a go at her.
:letitsnow :letitsnow :winterrul
 
96 800 INNER SPIDER ON VMAX PRIMARY HAS TO BE MACHINED. HC SCREW HEADS BINDED ON SPIDER TOWERS. LOOK PROBLEY HAVE SAME PROBLEM WHEN YA LOAD SRX, I AM STILL TESTING IN VMAX. THEIR BEST IN SRX. WORK GREAT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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